Kagaya Villa Matsu no Midori — Hotel in Nanao

We had fond memories of our first stay at Kagaya Bettei Matsunomidori, so we decided last week to pay another visit to find out if we would be as charmed as we were last time, or if some of our recent stays at Japan's top ryokans will have bumped this ryokan down in the pecking order. I'm happy to say that our experience was excellent, although we were more acutely aware of few of the flaws that we overlooked during our initial sojourn to this ryokan.||Kagaya Bettei Matsunomidori was established in 2015 as an annex to the famous and respected Kagaya. The Kagaya group owns and operates several massive properties in the Wakura Onsen area, including Kagaya, Aenokaze and Niji to Umi, all of which are massive, big box properties with a wide array of facilities and activities that is perfect for families and large tour groups. For more discerning travelers, however, the 31-room Matsunomidori stands apart as the luxury option among Kagaya group's portfolio, along with a price to match.||We first stayed in 2016, so Matsunomidori was new, fresh and stylish, and we were enamored with the design, refined cuisine, polished service, the massive and interesting public areas and the enchanting view of the garden and ocean. Most of what we remember still hold true, although we were more acutely aware of some of the shortcomings that our younger selves probably overlooked the first time around.||First off, 31 rooms for a luxury ryokan is on the large side. Many of the very top properties have less than 20 rooms, with several of them having rooms in the single digits. This resulted in a slightly less intimate and bespoke experience than we've recently become accustomed to. On the flip side, the public areas are comparatively massive, with incredible displays and exhibits of traditional and modern art. Most notably, there is a Wajima Nuri lacquerware (輪島塗) exhibit by famed craftsman Kado Isaburo, with his works prominently displayed througout every nook and cranny of the common areas. Also, the garden is photogenic, is fronted by a historic tea house called Tokuryoan (book early for the wonderful tea ceremony experience in Tokuryoan), and offers stupendous views of the ocean as well as Noto Island. In the lounge area, Matsunomidori offers coffee, tea and snacks throughout the day, free of charge, including a delicious Japanese sweet called Manju (among other offerings.) Overall, the scale and quality of the facilities (including the gift shop) is top notch.||The quality further extends to the room as well, for the most part. We stayed in the highest category room - Special Room with Open-Air Bath, which is an expansive 140m² in size, has a living room, a Japanese tatami-matted room as well as a separate and massive bedroom, which also has its own sitting area. Aside from the tatami room, the Suite was unusual in being carpeted and in having Western-style furnishings (couch, table/chairs and beds rather than futons.) While everything was in tip top shape and it was a great place to pass the time, we did feel that the room felt a tad dated - since this is not a traditional ryokan, some of the design elements have not stood the test of time, including the tiles in the shower area. ||The biggest shortcoming, in my opinion, was the in-room Onsen experience. We were surprised to find the bath not being filled with hot springs, with no Onsen continually flowing into the tub - in order to fill the bath with Onsen, you need to push a button near the shower for the hot springs to be unleashed. There are problems with this approach: Because the temperature of the Onsen itself is not regulated and maintained at a predefined amount of warmth, as soon as the tub fills up you need to get in right away before the bath becomes to lukewarm to enjoy it. Once the temperature drops, you're best advised to drain the bath and start the process all over again. It's a real hassle, and something that we feel is unacceptable at a luxury Onsen ryokan that charges such high room rates. This issue can be circumvented by paying a visit to the communal bath, but if that's all you need, it sort of defeats the purpose of staying in a high-end ryokan. Keep in mind also that not all rooms have an Onsen bath in the room. On the plus side, everything in the minibar is available free of charge, and the bathroom amenities are of high quality (although not unique.) Travel sized containers of lotion, shampoo, conditioner, body soap, moisturizer and other necessities are supplied by Omnisens (a Japanese brand), which seems to be what is offered by almost a third of the luxury ryokans in the country.||We enjoyed our dining experience at Matsunomidori. The Noto Peninsula, which is where Wakura Onsen is located, is renowned for nature's bounty from both the sea and land, and the ryokan does a good job that make the most of the local ingredients (especially the seafood.) The sashimi, including the Amaebi Sweet Shrimp, was simply sublime, as was the boiled Snow Crab (the local variety in the area is called "Kano-gani.") While not every single dish was exceptional, overall we were satisfied with the high-quality cuisine on offer at Matsunomidori. The same also applies to the Japanese breakfast - very good overall, although the food portions were on the small side.||Although we enjoyed our second stay at Matsunomidori and are glad we returned, it didn't quite live up to the fond memories and sky-high expectations that resulted from our amazing first visit many years ago. There is no shame in that, and it's still definitely a bona-fide luxury ryokan. But the inconvenient in-room onsen bathing process brings this property down a notch relative to some of the other top luxury ryokans that we've recent...

Opened on 1st October 2015, Matsunomidori has to be one of the most elegant and spectacular accommodations in the world. Located in a city full of hotels and ryokans, this one stands out in its exceptionally high standard of appointments and service. It is tucked away one street behind the main street and our GPS had not even been updated to take us there. A neighboring hotel staff showed the way. ||||Once you drive up to this low-rise understated but very zen building you are greeted by staff who take your luggage and car and welcomed you through a lobby filled with artwork. You are settled into comfortable chairs in a large lobby which overlooks the bay and a landscaped garden with large bonsai trees. You are served tea and cakes while you check in. Unhurried but very efficient. The lounge was quiet and very comfortable. There is a library of books and music. Everything exudes an air of freshness, calm and sincerity.||||There are only 33 rooms, but the hotel is very large and well-planned. The spaciousness and quiet were very much appreciated after the smaller and busier ryokans you often encounter.||||You are then shown to your room. On the way you pass by a beautiful shop selling very interesting crafts and art. Not your usual souvenirs but art pieces that you would be proud to own. ||||The lobby of the onsen is large and relaxing with attendants serving drinks and snacks during opening hours. ||||The room we had faced the bay. You can see into the horizon of hills and water. It was a beautiful suite. A most unexpected upgrade.||||All rooms in the suite faced the bay. Very well designed.||||The suite had a huge living room with white leather furniture. A private onsen and shower opening out into a view of the bay led from a lovely large bathroom. ||||The bedroom was enormous with another large and beautiful bathroom but only a small shower which was the only negative in this whole hotel. ||||There were two sets of fridges and nespresso machines. All drinks set up were included in the room rate. In addition there were cookies and chocolates. Toiletries were for both men and ladies. All luxury Japanese brands - packaged and wrapped. Very impressive. Everything was replenished each day.||||Service was of the highest standard. Both housekeeping and dining. ||||For dinner you have your own private room in the dining area. Service was really top class. Everything was included even top rate sake. The kaiseki was also of excellent quality and presentation.||||Breakfast is served in a large bright room overlooking the bay. It was wonderful to start the day in such a peaceful and bright environment with great views. You have a choice of western or Japanese breakfast. Again of high quality .||||This review is much longer than my usual review as this ryokan just opened and there is no English website. Hardly any English is spoken. But this is a ryokan where you are pampered. Very expensive but highly recommended for the ultimate...

This onsen is a five star facility that costs about $900 for an overnight stay that includes dinner and breakfast. We typically wouldn’t stay in a hotel like this, but we’re seniors and decided to splurge.||||The hotel is not much to look at from the outside. It’s a 5-story building on an ocean inlet that looks more like a large lake than the ocean. There are no waves.||||The lobby is luxurious and there is a museum collection on display throughout. There are soft chairs and white leather couches facing the water and when you arrive, you’re served tea or coffee while you are told about the onsen. The view across the tended garden and ornamental trees to the water is breathtaking.||||We decided to experience a traditional tea ceremony in a small adjacent historic building that was moved to its current location. The ceremony was filled with interesting ritual, and fortunately a friend of ours translated and elaborated on the ancient practice which made it even more enjoyable.||||In our 12-tatami mat twin room, we were given 3 sets of traditional Japanese clothing that we could wear anyplace within the onsen. Our room was about 400 sq. feet with a large screen flat screen television, a modern massage chair, and a well-stocked refrigerator (all drinks in the room, bar, and served with meals were included in our all-inclusive package). The bathroom included a Toto toilet, a deep soaking tub, and a shower within the tub room. A narrow balcony ran along the front of the room facing the sea, not wide enough for a table or a chair, but a place to breathe very fresh air in the morning and to watch the sunrise.||||The onsen has separate hot baths for men and women, and each has both an inside an outside bathing area as well as a dry sauna. The baths are luxurious with dressing areas, lockers, and showering stations well equipped with soaps, lotions, towels, etc. Outside of the bath area, there are individual stations for grooming, shaving (razors are provided), etc.||||The two exquisitely presented meals were served to us in a separate private dining area. Dinner was about 9 courses consisting of many items in each course, and our server explained what each item was. Breakfast was equally involved, with about about 7 items and a large pot of rice. The Japanese food is excellent, varied, and served elegantly.||||We had a memorable experience and we’re glad we decided to have the experience.||||I only have one complaint – the staff we encountered was usually not fluent in English and we felt that we might have understood more about the culture had there been more English...