Butter Naan So Fragrant You’ll Want to Pack It
After wandering through too many Southeast Asian-style restaurants in Gaozhuang, my nose was perpetually filled with the tang of tom yum and the freshness of lemongrass—until I turned into that bougainvillea-draped alley in Jinglan Village. Kumari’s orange-red doorway suddenly popped into view, like splitting a crack through the tropical jungle leading straight to Kathmandu 🌴. This "veteran of Gaozhuang," open for nearly a decade, is run by a Nepali uncle who always wears an embroidered apron. From my first visit in 2016 to biting into that first piece of butter naan today, that (burnt fragrance) mixed with milk has stayed exactly the same. A local friend said: "The reason Kumari’s survived a decade in Gaozhuang isn’t viral fame—it’s that people come back monthly just to gnaw on two naans 🍞." 🌿 An Orange-Red Sanctuary in the Hustle: Dining in a Little Nepali Courtyard Emerging from the bustle of Gaozhuang’s main street, weaving past clusters of Dai-style barbecue stalls and carts selling Lao iced coffee ☕, the stone paths of Jinglan Village suddenly quieted. Kumari hides midway down the alley, a standalone building wrapped in monsteras and fiddle-leaf figs 🌱, its orange-red walls glowing in the sun. A string of Nepali copper bells hangs by the door; when you push it open, the "tinkle" instantly blocks out the night market’s hawking. The ground-floor dining room is as warm as a Nepali afternoon, wooden tables polished to a shine, with faint circular marks where brass plates have sat for years. A faded oil painting of the Himalayas hangs on the wall, beside a small Buddha statue 🕉️; a faint scent of Tibetan incense drifts from the censer, mixing with the curry aroma from the kitchen in a surprisingly harmonious way. The second-floor terrace is even better—rattan chairs half-hidden by greenery, with a view of Dai-style rooftop spires above and the shadow of butter naan sizzling on the griddle below 🔥. The owner occasionally pokes his head out of the kitchen, apron stained with turmeric, asking in a rolled-tongue Chinese, "Want it spicier?" 🌶️ Chatting, I learned he came to Xishuangbanna from Kathmandu in 2014, opening the shop with spice recipes from home: "The cumin in the curry needs three months of sun, the butter has to be from Himalayan yak milk—cut a step, and regulars will taste it." These days, Gaozhuang’s restaurants come and go faster than monsoons, but his kitchen still holds that ten-year-old brass pot, its curry-stained bottom thick as amber—a testament brewed by time ⏳. 🍛 Naan That Steals the Show: Butter Aroma Drifts Half a Street First-time visitors are always nudged to order the "chicken curry with hand-held rice set," but regulars know the magic is in the a la carte butter naan. When the naan first puffs up on the griddle, you can hear butter seeping into the dough with a "sizzle"; the chef flips it with a long-handled spatula, and the edges instantly turn charred brown, like dusted with caramel 🍯. It arrives still hot enough to burn, and the second you tear it apart, heat bursts out (wrapped in) butter fragrance. The crust crackles audibly, while the inside stays soft, pulling into thin strands; first comes the (burnt aroma), then the sweetness of milk fat, and finally a hint of wheat on the tongue 🤤. It’s delicious even plain, but dipping it in curry is pure indulgence: the orange curry clings thickly to the naan, chicken stewed so tender it dissolves on the tongue, potato mash mixed with spicy (spices), tangling with the naan’s buttery richness into a warmth that (soothes) from tongue to stomach 🥭. The hand-held rice hides tricks too—steamed with coconut milk, each grain distinct with a hint of sweetness, paired with pickled radish and roasted beans to cut the curry’s richness 🍚. Two people ordering one set plus a separate naan will usually start packing leftovers halfway through: "Microwave it tomorrow morning, and the crust stays crispy"—a tip passed among regulars for a decade 📦. #Livephoto #XishuangbannaEats #HonestFoodReviews #HiddenRestaurantGems #DailyEats #NepaliRestaurant #NepaliCuisine #XishuangbannaTravelGuide #RestaurantRecommendations #LocalFavorites