Bodega Kaiken — Attraction in Luján de Cuyo

Context: with one full day in Mendoza and tastebuds not made for wine, my oblivious self didn’t realise that I had bicycled myself to a Francis Mallman institute. All I was wanting was a nice view and a cheapish meal. Nevertheless, I should have asked to see the menu before free water was served ( I didn’t think it was free to begin with).

Ambiance: a truly beautiful vineyard and setting to have lunch or, if you’re more inclined to a glass/bottle of wine. The mountains are an arms perspective away, and you quite literally have the option to dine under the vines themselves. A truly charming setting with simple yet fitting tableware. The open kitchen embraces the asado culture of Argentina and reflects Mallman’s style. The setup blended in with the surrounding nature and edificios. A small pocket of dining dreams.

Attendance: was very good. Everyone spoke English and Spanish, finely manipulating the language of choice to the customers preference (or inability). Consent was always asked for my dishes (dish) to be taken away, which was welcome. It was my own stupidity and ignorance entering this bodega without knowing its calibre, however if I put that aside, I would have liked if the staff had asked me to view the menu before sitting down. Sometimes I think we as humans can make this judgement on people, especially me having rocked up with a hole in my beanie, and working onesie. The prices did shock me. However, justifiable for its prestige and quality.

Food: having sat down and asked for still or sparking water, I looked at the menu. Bam. Prices high. I chose to bite the bullet and order an entre (the cheapest that was there): open grilled thinly sliced eggplant with sautéed cherry tomatoes, prosciutto and lightly toasted hacked almonds. I was very pleasantly surprised. A surprisingly big plate for an entree. Visually full, festive, and reflective (of the landscape, (if I want to be wanky)). The flavours were short and punchy, but fused well together. What stood out to me most, was the different complimentary textures and the equally proportioned ratios of elements. Moreover, I was gifted a complimentary pumpkin soup with fennel seeds. Simple and flavoursome. A welcomed gesture of welcome.

Patrons: rich people who can afford to, and in my opinion disrespectfully so, literally 1/2 of their meal on the plate. I get that it attracts people like this, but an option of small and ‘flavour power punched’ snacks while drinking a glass of wine would go off here for those that cannot afford the prices otherwise designated.

Bathrooms: I always judge a place based on their bathrooms. Just a knack. Nothing great here. Located behind the wine and dine area, in a big beautiful farm building, I felt like I was peeing just anywhere. I was taken out of the dream dining experience. Hence a 4/5 stars.

Well done. I will come back when my pockets are fuller. It was only once I dropped off my bike that I was informed of the notoriety of Kaiken. A good reminder to do my research but then also, it’s these days you remember when you don’t organise anything and go with the flow and are...

We had a reservation at Kaiken for wine and food by Francis Mallman. Our day started off rocky with issues at the rental car agency. This caused us to arrive about an hour late to our reservation at the vineyard. We called to explain on our way and they told us to drive safely and they would an accommodate us when we arrive. They were incredibly generous when we arrived and sat us at a wonderful shaded table in the vineyard. The young man who took our orders was incredibly helpful and kind. His knowledge and suggestions were very much appreciated. I will start with the food. It is a Francis Mallman food experience and I must say it was beyond my expectations. The steaks were cooked perfectly and as good as steak as I have ever had. The wine we had was 4-5 different glasses - each paired with the course it was served with. Every wine was exceptional - we bought 2 bottles in the gift shop afterwards. The grounds are beautiful and were nice to walk after a big meal. Every staff member we encountered was so polite and friendly. We never felt rushed and were able to enjoy the experience at our pace with no pressure to hurry. It is a very calm and laid back atmosphere but with first class food and wine, first class facilities, and first class service. The price for our food and wine was under $200 per person and it was worth every bit and probably could charge much more. Everything about the experience was phenomenal. I highly recommend this winery if you truly want to experience something unique...

Me resultó un poco sobrevalorado. La interfaz para hacer la reserva está muy bien, es efectiva y fácil de usar, te consultan la ocasión por la que visitas, cantidad de personas, restricciones alimentarias... el problema es que una vez que llegas, nada de eso queda registrado. No tiene ninguna relevancia y hay que aclarar de nuevo las cosas cuando uno llega. El lugar está muy bien ambientado, mucho aire libre y mesas entre los parrales, es descontracturado y nada pretencioso. Una vez que nos sentamos, se notaba que el lugar estaba sobre-reservado, los mozos no daban a basto, parecía que habían agregado mesas de más para sentar más gente, pero sin personal, la experiencia se diluye mucho. A partir de ahí todo se demoró. Las bebidas vinieron bien, pedimos un Kaiken Ultra Merlot, estaba a la temperatura perfecta, y una jarra de limonada, que no vino sino hasta que la pedimos por segunda vez. Mi esposa es celíaca, y las opciones aptas quedaron súper cortas, algo creo yo inaceptable en los tiempos que corren. Las entradas se demoraron CUARENTA MINUTOS. El "casco" de calabaza es una rodaja de zapallito coreano con una tira de queso raclette; tenía un buen sabor, pero una presentación pobre. Más que nada resultaba picante. La otra entrada fueron las mollejas; estaban sobrecocidas, secas, con rodajas de vegetales que la verdad no pegan con la armonía del plato (pepino y rabanito). Todo el emplatado era como apurado y sin un concepto claro. Los principales no demoraron tanto. Por un lado fish and chips, que vino primero el plato a la mesa, los cubiertos después. El pescado era blanco, me atrevo a decir merluza, frito con poco aceite y probablemente a temperatura baja, lo que provoca que quede impregnado en la fritura, pierda crocancia y se vuelva pesado. Las papas fritas estaban perfectas. Viene acompañado de media palta y repollo colorado. Nada de gajos cítricos, que son indispensables para este plato. Después de los cubiertos, llegó el plato principal de mi compañera, de los cuales tuvo que elegir entre dos opciones aptas: ojo de bife ($1600) o humita. NADA MÁS. Pidió la humita, un plato bastante corto para principal. Estaba sabroso, pero picante. El postre fue lo que más sobresale, probablemente porque no sea de elaboración propia. Se trata de un bizcocho húmedo, con la textura de la marquise, pero sin harinas, con crema neutra y láminas de mango. Funcionó perfecto. Si ponen horarios para reservas entre las 13:00 y las 15:30, un restaurant tiene que tener un inventario completo de todos sus platos para toda esa cantidad de gente en todos los horarios. No pueden haber faltantes, como nos pasó con la entrada de alcauciles, a lo que la moza nos dijo en tono de chiste "perdón chicos, llegaron tarde". Terminamos recibiendo más atención de lo que parecían ser maître que de la propia moza, lo que demuestra que no capacitan al personal. La calidad de atención no es responsabilidad del mozo, sino del restaurant. La gastronomía queda muy corta para lo que sale (aprox. $3500 por persona el menú a la carta). Yo entiendo que la cocina de Mallmann tiene este concepto "descontracturado", con fuego y estilo rústico, pero rústico no es antónimo de prolijo. Espero que esta review sirva para que re-visiten la oferta gastronómica. La reapertura post-pandemia ha resultado muy complicada para todo el turismo de Mendoza, sobre todo el principal que es el vitivinícola, pero un restaurant con esta marca ya debería tener pulidos los detalles, no se puede resolver todo...