There is the front and the back Quingcheng. The front is unesco heritage site, lots of temples, very very touristy. The back mountain has beautiful bridges over the streams, temples, a boat along a gorge, impossibly steep steps, a rattly cable car and the most breathtaking views. Both have millions and millions of steps. And when you think the steps had ended, there is another million of them. I reached the top kung fu panda style. We much preferred the back mountain. We stayed at the end of the valley and started early from the “other” entrance — the one with bridges and streams. Even with excruciating steps, it was magical. We finished the route at the main entrance. It was good to arrive into the ancient town in time for dinner!