We booked the safari from 10 am to 4 pm in fact, being no electricity at Stone Camp and with the only available accommodation units semi-open, with no doors or windows, we preferred to sleep outside the reserve in a hotel. Access to the reserve is located a few kilometers east of Siphofanemi shortly after the bridge over the railway. The narrow unpaved road leading to the reserve starts near a small green painted shop along the road. The sign for the reserve that you see on google map is no longer there. Following the instructions received, we waited near the shop where they picked us up on time with an open land cruiser. Being the safari in the sunniest hours of the day it is very important to have a large hat and to cover up or use sunscreen. For both safaris we were the only customers. After crossing a small river, you arrive at the gate of the reserve which is padlocked and unattended. If you do not want to leave your car parked on the road near the shop, you can follow the land cruiser and park it just a kilometer after the entrance of the reserve where there is a reception and logistics facility. This can also be done with a car that is not 4WD but do not try to go alone without a reservation in the reserve because the gate is always closed and unattended. After passing two gates we reached the logistic facility where we were registered, given a welcome drink and provided with bottles of water. The area around this facility is a large enclosed natural quarantine area and there, during the transit, we were able to see our first black rhinoceros (Diceros bicornis). The safari starts here and takes place in the two areas into which the reserve is divided. The two areas are separated by an electrified fence and it has been explained to us that in the first area there are potentially dangerous animals such as hippos and buffaloes, while in the second area, where Stone Camp is located, these species are not present. Rhinos, giraffes and many other animals are present in both areas, while the elephants were definitively removed from the reserve and relocated to Hlane NP because the damage to the trees was becoming excessive. The morning part of the safari therefore takes place mainly in the first area where we saw about twenty white rhinoceros (Ceratotherium simum), and given the young specimens new saw, this rhino seems to be a healthy species. Unlike other NPs such as the Kruger, the rhinos here have their long main horn intact making the sight of these animals impressive. Being the only tourists and having expressed our primary interest in these animals, the guide helped us to position ourselves in the best places to photograph them up close. On the other hand, it is difficult to see the black rhino because it prefers thicker vegetation and avoids contact with humans. In two days of safari we only saw two and we were lucky. Very easy to see are the giraffes, zebras, nyalas and impalas. We could also see other animals that are seen more rarely such as blue wildebeest, tsessebe and common duiker. Near impossible to see is the hyena the only predator. The tour along the tracks of the reserve leads close to large pools where we have often seen rhinos and warthogs rolling in the mud. In the dry summer vegetation these pools are an attraction for animals and birds. In many of these pools there are Nile crocodiles, Nile monitors and serrated hinged terrapins while in the largest there is a small population of hippos. Among the several bird species we can enlist: martial eagle, woolly-necked stork, white-faced whistling duck, Egyptian goose, helmeted guineafowl, hamerkop, African hoopoe, yellow-billed oxpecker, yellow canary, water thick-knee. Around 1 pm we entered the second area where Stone Camp is located and here we had our lunch included in the tour. A fantastic grilled meat with vegetables, fruit and dessert served on an outdoor table in the shade of a majestic sausage tree. A pleasant break before resuming the safari which regularly ended at 4 pm. The decision to do the same safari for two days, although the route is largely repetitive, has increased the possibility of seeing black rhino and some species that are difficult to observe in this reserve. We were very satisfied and having ample experience we can no doubt say this is one of the best places to see African rhinos. If we could return we will stop to sleep in Stone Camp because it made a great impression on us. Definitely recommended for anyone...
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