Grotte de Bernifal — Attraction in Sarlat-la-Canéda

In this area there are countless grottos with cave paintings dating back to around 12,000 BC. This one is a bit out of the ordinary because it is probably the least commercialized of all. An online booking of an appointment in this private cave is required, otherwise no one will be there. From the car park it is about 10 minutes through the forest to the entrance of the cave. Lots of small signposts show the way. It can happen that the guide arrives a little later than you.

Today we got a private tour for two. At the beginning he asked us not to publish the photos from the cave on the internet. I do this and have to put the impressions into words more, even though it is really difficult.

This cave has been privately owned for many generations and nowadays the French can speak a lot of easy-to-understand English, which suited us. The cave consists of three rooms that are sometimes very closely connected. In addition to the stalagmites and stalactites that you would expect in a damp and, at 13°C, quite cold environment, there are numerous paintings and drawings on the walls.

After the guide had closed the door behind us (no one was paying attention at the entrance), he gave us a flashlight and began his explanation. Many different techniques were obviously used to immortalize hands, faces, houses and animals such as bison, mammoths, horses, bears and goats. Some were scribbled, some painted and some were put together from countless dots like a tattoo.

We were told many stories and he also paid attention to the spooky atmosphere. A very special experience, even if some of the drawings could have been dated to today. A long time ago, modern people also immortalized themselves here. That is why there is now a lockable door at...

Absolutely fabulous experience of the cave! I loved every second of the tour. The cave art is incredible: a variety of styles from etchings in the limestone to reliefs, to paintings with iron (red) or manganese dioxide (black and grey). I definitely had trouble seeing a lot of the art at first, but Michel, the tourguide, had an incredible ability to show off the art by using his flashlight angles and laser pointer. He knew the scientific dating techniques and other information from the various archaeologists well and also brought a lovely narrative quality with lots of extra vivid detail to aid in the storytelling. Michel (I think I correctly spelled his name) was a phenomenal raconteur, explicater, and guide. He had so much rich history of the cave, the ecology of the area, the discovery and rediscovery of the cave, etc. His English was excellent, although he occasionally had a little trouble understanding my questions in English (possibly because I was speaking too quietly or using weird idioms) and so I re-posed some of the questions in my approximation of French (about which he was very generous) and he was able to respond well and clearly English. I can't recommend it enough. I might even try to go again while I'm here-- it was so cool to get to see the cave intimately and up-close with someone who knows it so well. Book your tour in advance and pay in cash...

On a whim during lunch, I called the number listed for this cave to see if they might have a tour available at 2:30. I was told it was not possible but a tour could be arranged at 5pm. The cave is only open when the owners are free to give you a tour, PLEASE NOTE that GPS will take you to a parking area that is then a 15 minute walk through the woods with tiny hand written signs pointing you to the cave entrance where you will find a locked steel door, We were about to leave at 5:20 when a man pulled up on a scooter and introduced himself as Michael. This family-owned cave is an experience like no other. Michael spent almost two hours with just me and my wife taking us through the four dark caverns with only a flashlight to illuminate over 100 cave paintings. Pictures were allowed. Michael has very good English and is quite knowledgeable explaining the paintings and the history of the cave. It was delightful with incredible paintings including a beautiful one of a woman’s face peering out at you from 16,000 years ago, We went to another more famous cave with maybe more “dramatic” paintings but getting herded by them was nothing like our incredible tour with Michael as our personal guide, One of the best things you will do in...