Jesal Toral Samadhi — Attraction in Anjar

Many believe the samadhis of Jesal and Toral will unite forever some day This is not a love story. But it is a story of love. The Jesal-Toral shrine in the small town of Anjar in Gujarat's Kutch district tells the tale of a rare association between a dacoit and a queen. Its significance in the new century is explained in the folklore surrounding the Kutch earthquakes of 1957 and 2001. Now, as another anniversary of the last earthquake approaches, indignant locals and pilgrims wonder why a shrine that attracts more than 2,000 people every day should be still awaiting "relief work".

Apparently, though the roof caved in during the 2001 earthquake, the twin samadhis inside survived. All the people who were inside escaped unhurt even as the neighbourhood mourned the many faces of death. A popular myth here is that during these earthquakes, the samadhis - otherwise a few metres away from each other - touched one another. They drifted apart again later, but the distance between them has been shrinking every year. Tectonic movement is not an explanation people here are willing to buy, because they believe that when the land is finally rid of misfortune, the samadhis will reunite forever.

That's perhaps a myth. "But the real story that dates back to 1526 A.D. is documented history," says Darshana Dholakia, lecturer at Lalan College, Bhuj, who has researched the subject. Jesal, a young Kutchi Rajput, was a dreaded dacoit. His brother's wife once chided him that if he was truly brave, he should prove it by stealing Toral, an extraordinary mare belonging to a Saurashtra king. In the process of stealing Toral, Jesal's hand got caught in a nail and his agonised cries brought the king running outside.

Asked what he wanted, Jesal said "Toral", not knowing that the queen too had the same name. The king, a devout daani (donor) who had sworn never to disappoint anyone, gave him three Torals - his queen, the mare and a sword by that name. But on the boat journey back home, Jesal realised that Toral was not an ordinary woman.

He was tormented by guilt at having taken away someone who, out of loyalty, did not even question her husband's decision. It is said that the enlightened company of Queen Toral, remembered in Gujarati literature as a devotional poet who composed and sang songs, transformed Jesal completely and the two began spreading the message of God.

Their inseparable companionship as teacher and disciple is talked about, but in cautious tones. No one, not even the local scholars, wants to discuss the Jesal-Toral alliance as a man-woman relationship. "Even the Gujarati film Jesal-Toral did not suggest any such angle," recalls photographer Vinay Thacker, who started his career in 1976 by selling photos of the twin samadhis outside the shrine.

However, people do accept their unusual affinity, which even death couldn't change. It is said that when Jesal undertook samadhi, he called out to Toral from his grave to join him. Toral, who was travelling, heard his voice, came back to Anjar and immediately took samadhi. Toral, the mare, too was buried outside the temple. A green and magenta chaddar now covers the equestrian grave. The destroyed roof of the shrine has been temporarily replaced with an asbestos sheet.

But that hasn't stopped the huge throng of pilgrims who pour out endless tales of miracles attributed to the blessings of Jesal-Toral. Thacker believes that his photography has been blessed by the shrine. An old priestess recalls how she stood unmoving, hands folded during both the earthquakes at the samadhis. "Toral rani saved me, I didn't even sustain a scratch," she says. A woman from Patna says she gave birth to two sons after 16 years of marriage, following a visit to the...

Jesal Toral ShrinesEdit

To east of Ajepal's monastery, is a small tiled shed with tombs of Muslim pattern sacred to Jesar or Jesal, a Jadeja, and Turi or Toral, a Kathi. The temple is locally known as Jesal Toral ni Samadhi, which literally means 'the tomb of Jesal and Toral'. The shrine at Anjar is under the charge of the Ajepal monastery.

In the middle of the fourteenth century Jesar, grandson of the Jam Lakha Jadeja, became an outlaw, laid waste to fields and villages, killed the people, and carried off the cattle. At that time a Kathi woman, Turi or Toral by name, was famous for her devotion and her skill in making hymns, and still more famous for her beauty. She lived with an ascetic called Savasdhir, who did not regard her as his wife but as one who would bring him salvation. The fame of her beauty reached Jesar, who tried to carry her off by force but failed. Going back in the guise of an ascetic he was well received, and arranged to seize her at some midnight worship. His plans were found out, and, on his confessing, the sect whose rule was to grant the wish of every asker gave him Turi on condition that he became an ascetic. Jesar agreed, but soon tiring of the restraint, again tried to take Turi away by force. She foiled him, and in time changed him into a model ascetic. Settling at Anjar, Jesar died and Turi was buried alive close by his tomb. His descendants, the Jesar' Rajputs have, in each of the twelve villages, a shrine of...

🙏 A Visit to the Jesal-Toral Samadhi 🙏

I recently visited the Jesal-Toral Samadhi, a serene and spiritual place that beautifully honors the legendary story of Jesal and Toral. Located in the heart of Kutch, this site is a tribute to the remarkable bond between the saint Toral and the reformed warrior Jesal, whose journey from rebellion to spiritual transformation is deeply inspiring.

The peaceful ambiance of the Samadhi invites visitors to reflect on values of compassion, redemption, and devotion. The architecture and surrounding atmosphere create a unique sense of tranquility, making it a perfect place to connect with the rich cultural heritage of Kutch.

For those seeking a blend of history, spirituality, and inspiration, the Jesal-Toral Samadhi is a must-visit destination in Kutch.

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