Around 40km from Islamabad on the Rawalpindi-Peshawar section of G.T. Road near Margalla Pass, there stands a monument built in memory of a British army commander.
Brigadier-General John Nicholson (1822-57) was considered as one of the finest officers of the Victorian era. Built in 1868, the approximately 40 feet tower, Nicholson’s Obelisk, is located on top of Margalla hill near Margalla or Tarnol Pass on the left side of Grand Trunk Road. It can be seen from a distance while travelling on GT road to and fro Rawalpindi and Peshawer . It is an important landmarks of the colonial period in the region.
John Nicholson was born on December 11, 1822, in Lisburn, Northern Ireland.
During his services for the British East India Army, he distinguished himself in four wars. He participated in his first combat action in the first Afghan War (1839-42).After the Anglo-Afghan War, he was appointed Political Officer in Kashmir and then District Commissioner in the Sangar area of Sindh.
During 2nd Anglo Sikh War during the Anglo-Sikh War of 1849, Nicholson joined by the majority of Muslims from Taxila, Wah, Fatehjang, Hasan Abdal and environs, defeated a Sikh garrison who held the Margalla Pass at this same location. John Nicholson was also wounded while fighting Sikhs. This freedom of Muslims from 'Sikha Shahi ' was seen as a great victory.
After the Second Anglo-Sikh War (1848-49), Nicholson was appointed the deputy commissioner of Bannu from 1852-54. For his bravery and services towards British government, a tablet in a church at Bannu carries the following caption: “Gifted in mind and body, he was as brilliant in government as in arms. The snows of Ghazni attest his youthful fortitude; the songs of the Punjab his manly deeds; the peace of this frontier his strong rule. The enemies of his country know how terrible he was in battle, and we his friends have to recall how gentle, generous, and true he was.”
Nicholson was also known as “Hero of Delhi” for his role and planning during what the British called Indian mutiny of 1857. Leading the assault on Delhi, he was critically injured and died nine days later on September 23, 1857, at the age of 34, and was buried in Delhi. The interesting fact about the monument is that it is located next to the old G.T. Road. It is said that Alexander the Great also passed through the same route. A staircase leads towards the monument at the top.
There is a door in the monument, more than 10 feet high from the base of the tower, which is apparently kept locked. The area around the monument shows that this place is not frequently visited by tourists. John
The plaque inside the room at Nicholson’s monument reads as “This column is erected by friends, British and Native to the memory of Brigadier General John Nicholson, taking a hero’s part in four great wars for the defence of British India. Cabul 1840, First Siekh War 1845, Second Seikh War 1848, Sepoy Mutiny 1857”
Nicholson is mentioned in several literary works, including • Rudyard Kipling’s novel ‘Kim’ in which a native veteran of the Great Uprising of 1857 sings a “song of Nikal Seyn before Delhi”. • by by George MacDonald Fraser in his book Flashman in the Great Game. • In James Leasor's novel about the Indian Mutiny Follow the Drum • In James Leasor's history of the siege, 'The Red Fort'. • His biography written by Lionel J Trotter (1897) • Conspicuous mention in the book Soldier-Sahibs:The Men who made the North-West Frontier (2001) by...
Read moreA Timeless Journey to the Top – Discover the Hidden Jewel of Taxila
Visiting this monument is truly a breathtaking experience—both for its panoramic views and its historical significance. Perched at one of the highest vantage points in the Taxila region, this monument offers an unmatched 360-degree view of the majestic Potohar Plateau, stretching across the ancient city of Taxila, all the way to Rawalpindi and Islamabad.
What makes this spot so unique is not just its elevation but the mystical ambiance it carries. Built during the British colonial era (or possibly earlier depending on the exact structure), it has served as a watchtower, military post, or a commemorative site for centuries. Standing here connects you to thousands of years of history—right from Gandhara civilization, through Buddhist influences, to Mughal and British colonial presence in the region.
Accessing the top of the monument is not easy—the keys to the upper door are rarely available to the public, and require special permission or guidance from local caretakers or authorities. But if you’re fortunate enough to go upstairs, it becomes a once-in-a-lifetime experience. The breeze, the silence, and the stunning landscape below are awe-inspiring. It’s a perfect place for photographers, history lovers, hikers, and heritage explorers.
This spot is not just a monument—it’s a portal to the past, a hidden gem of Taxila that very few tourists venture into. It offers an Instagram-worthy backdrop for travel bloggers and a peaceful escape for nature lovers.
Highly recommended for those seeking adventure, heritage tourism, and panoramic photography.
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Read moreThe Nicholson's Memorial, erected by the British Indian Government in 1968, stands as a tribute to Brigadier-General John Nicholson (1822-1857), a renowned and courageous officer. Leading a diverse contingent of British Indian troops from NW.FP (KPK) and Punjab, which included Sikhs, Muslim Punjabis, and Pathans, he valiantly quelled the Soldiers' Mutiny of 1857 but tragically lost his life in the process. The memorial takes the form of a tall tower perched atop Margalla hills, visible from afar to anyone traveling on the Rawalpindi-Peshawar Road. Near this obelisk, down the hill and across the GT road, lie two exquisite Roman-style rooms, believed to be associated with Nicholson's Obelisk. One of these rooms once held a water fountain, providing refreshment to travelers, while the other likely served as a resting place. Legend has it that Nicholson sustained injuries at this location during the 2nd Anglo-Sikh War of 1848-49. Unfortunately, the informational board at the site offers only minimal details, mentioning only the name without delving into the historical significance. Nonetheless, visitors can spot the name of John Nicolson engraved above the arch of the room that once housed...
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