Charming mountain village but terrible road access.
I came here in late afternoon for sunset and ended up not staying as long as I wanted due to concerns about navigating such poor roads back in the dark. So, I didn't truly get to appreciate this village. Maybe it is better than what I saw.
Like the other Aldeias do Xisto, it is tiny and rustic with shale buildings, adding a serene beauty and architectural wonder. This is maybe more apparent in Pena than Comareira, Aigra Nova or Aigra Velha. Pena is steeper and the Góis mountains tower over it with a small canyon below, giving it a much more wild and imposing feeling. Felt like an escape from the world. Buildings are well preserved and the atmosphere is quiet, only being able to hear the river below, the wind in the trees, and birdsong.
There is very little parking, and driving inside the village should not be done. This seems to be a self-limiting aspect which helps the village retain its isolation and charm. The same can be said for the access roads.
I drove from Aigra Nova and it was awful. Most of the drive was fine, with very narrow and precarious mountain pass roads, but it was paved. Closer to Pena, the road turns into a dirt track meant for farming or off-road vehicles. It is incredibly bumpy with large rocks, ruts, and potholes, and going faster than 10-15 kph seems impossible with regular cars. One such boulder slammed into the bottom of my car (there was no way to avoid it) and it worried me. If the road was in better condition, it may encourage more visitors, but perhaps they don't want that. I understand that.
Loved the mountains and nature and solitude. Didn't care for the road. Probably better to hike in from another nearby village and spend the day exploring all the hiking trails. I did not see any cafes or minimercados, though. So...
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