Perched on the southernmost tip of the Shetland archipelago, Jarlshof is described as one of the most remarkable sites ever excavated in the British Isles, covering an incredible time span of more than 4000 years.
Approaching the complex from the main road, literally crossing the landing airstrip of tiny Sumburgh airport, gives the feeling of being really far from the busy mainstream sites of other islands.
At a first glance, Jarlshof appears as an irregular group of sand dunes covered by windswept grass. Coming up close to the first buildings, it is clear that the site is an enormous complex of heterogeneous structures, from early Neolithic dwellings to a Bronze Age settlement, Iron Age roundhouses, wheelhouses and the thick structure of what was once an imposing broch. That could be enough to make it an archaeologist’s playground. Add a big Norse settlement with its rectangular-shaped longhouses and a post-medieval Hall, and you have it.
The name, which betrays something of its Norse past, was given in a much later time by Sir Walter Scott, who set his novel ‘The Pirate’ at Sumburgh Head.
(You can see more photos and read more about it on my IG...
Read moreThe fact this has been here for more than 4000 years and is a relic of the Norse invasion, with multiple layers of history, is amazing in itself. Given the age and the location, its impressive its warn the ravages of time so well. In addition to being so well preserved, it’s fascinating to see how people used to live thousands of years ago and how the site has been re-used throughout the ages. This would have been a real community in the beginning. It’s a bit out of the way, but fine if you have your own car, though there are also busses and tours here. Best to get here early, when it opens to avoid the coach tours. The drive down from Lerwick is lovely too, with the chance to see some unique wildlife, especially if you carry on to Sumburgh Head. It takes about half hour to walk round it properly. There is a small visitor centre, but be warned there are no loos and they do not seem to like you using the ones in the hotel where you park. If you like history, there are few older manmade places in the world. Well...
Read moreThe whole purpose of the days excursion was to visit Jarlshof. Reportedly unique in that a number of ruins from different eras exist on the same site, yet they were not built on top of each other (as is normal) nor did they steal stones from each other. From Roman Brochs to Viking Longhouses, Farms, Ancient huts/houses, a smithy, a partial Wheelhouse, and some sort of keep/lairds House, this site has many different things to wonder at. I loved the visit, although due to our tour composition picture taking was hard and hearing our guide even harder amongst our slow moving 'tourist herd'. Looking at the stone walls, it's hard to imagine what life would have been like (other than cold). I understand that there are better preserved ruins, castles and so on across Scotland and the UK, but this one had ones that spanned millennia. One of the best...
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