Sangha Lodge — Hotel in Sangha-Mbaéré

My wife and I enjoyed five nights at Sangha Lodge, which was our first stop on a 7-week trip taking us to central, western, and southern Africa. We believe this was our tenth or twelfth trip to remote parts of the African continent, and Dzanga Sangha was certainly among the most remarkable places we have ever been. This is a truly wild place with incredibly pristine forest. The lodge is a family affair with owners Rod and Tamar and their son Alain as hosts. They have been at Sangha for over a decade, know the area well, and are involved with the local communities. While we were there, they were in the midst of some construction projects (which did not disturb us at all) as they are upgrading some areas of the lodge. We had the privilege of being among the first guests to stay in one of their brand new cottages, but the older ones also looked lovely. Each bungalow sits on the banks of the river with views over the water through the forest vines. We were awakened most mornings to the sounds of putty-nosed monkeys swinging about in the trees around our bedroom. The room was spacious and comfortable, and we always had plenty of hot water. The lodge staff worked very hard to accommodate dietary restrictions, and dinners especially were tasty and filling. The camp is extremely remote and without the kind of infrastructure of southern African safari destinations, so food is not top-of-the-line, but it is remarkably good given the location. You won't go hungry, I can promise.||||But the real reason, of course, to visit is for the incredible wildlife. We were lucky to have an incredible pangolin encounter on our very first afternoon in camp--just before we were dumped by the heaviest rainfall I have ever felt in my life. The opportunity to visit Dzanga Bai, where the forest elephants (and buffalo, and sometimes other animals) convene, is incredible. The viewing platform gives you a shaded hide at which to spend an entire day observing the elephants. You will not see this number of forest elephants, or forest elephants this close up, anywhere else. This is also a nice spot for birders.||||We went gorilla trekking on two days. Having also been to see mountain gorillas in Virunga, I can share the following notes: 1. The lowland gorillas are completely different, so if you've seen mountain gorillas in Rwanda or Uganda, it's definitely still worthwhile to visit Dzanga Sangha. These gorillas are stunning. They are truly magnificent--and, most people agree, more so than mountain gorillas; 2. There are NO crowds here as there are in Rwanda and Uganda--you are likely to be the only people looking for the gorillas when you go (plus the gorilla researchers and trackers who accompany you); 3. Photography is much more challenging here than with mountain gorillas because the vegetation is so dense and the gorillas sit mostly separate from each other, whereas mountain gorillas are often in groups. They are also less accustomed to people and therefore more shy. Bring the very best lens you can afford, and the best binoculars you can afford; 4. Gorilla sighting is virtually guaranteed, but not necessarily--our first effort was washed out by extremely heavy rains. The guides want you not just to see the gorillas, but to see them meaningfully, when they are active and engaged. They will really work to make that happen for you. Trust them and their expertise. I suggest also at least leaving room in your itinerary for two days with the gorillas in case day one doesn't pan out, particularly in the rainier season. 5. For us anyway, getting to the gorillas on foot (so the trek) was much easier than trekking to the mountain gorillas. Still, plan on having good walking shoes, long-sleeved clothing (there are a lot of plants in the forest that will hurt you otherwise), and consider bringing a walking stick if you have any history of falling or are at all off-balance. Your Ba'aka guide can also improvise excellent walking sticks on request.||||Another very special part of our visit was the time we spent with the local Ba'aka villagers. We often find village or tribal visits in Africa to be highly contrived and problematic, but the low level of tourism and the good relations the owners of Sangha have with the local people translates into a wonderful experience for guests. We joined the Ba'aka for a morning of hunting. They are a remarkable group and one of the most egalitarian societies--men and women share virtually all activities and much is done collaboratively, including their method of net hunting. ||||Since no one else has commented on staying in Bangui in a while, I will also add that, due to our travel plans to Cameroon, we had to spend a night a Bangui on our departure. Guess what? It was fine! Spending time in town was actually a wonderful contrast to our nights in the forest and gave us an opportunity to see everyday more urban life in CAR. I wouldn't put Bangui on an bucket list, but if you have to stay over, it's very manageable provided you book a hotel and transportation to/from the hotel in advance. Of course, keep apprised of local conditions as you make your plans. ||||Five nights is definitely the minimum for a worthwhile stay at Sangha Lodge; if your itinerary and budget allows for more time, I think it would be well worth it, and be sure to ask the hosts in advance about hiking and other activities that may not be standard fare. They know the area so well and really want you to experience it fully, and there are many magical places to explore along the river. ||||By way of travel tips, if traveling in the rainier season, be prepared with extra shoes as your shoes are guaranteed to get sopping wet. We also found our allegedly waterproof jackets were no match whatsoever for the Dzanga rains, so bring a plastic poncho if you prefer to stay dry. The air is so humid that nothing really dries here--wicking fabrics are a must for your everyday clothing. Prior to our trip, we were warned at length about sweat bees and other bugs, but we had no issues with insects whatsoever (we were there in late July). And, as for anywhere in Africa, travel with a good flashlight and extra batteries for it. ||||If you're seeking a truly magical, remote, and off-the-beaten path wildlife and cultural opportunity, you can't beat a stay at...

Sangha Lodge - a place so special it can only be described as life-changing. As I sit down to share my gratitude for my time there, I find myself transported back to the heart of the C.A.R.. It was here, nestled in the depths of the forest, that I discovered a world beyond my wildest dreams.

But first, let me address your concerns. The internet paints a daunting picture of this remote corner of the world, but I assure you, it's safe. From my very first steps there, I felt secure and at ease. I wandered through the village day and night, kayaked down the river, explored the forest alone - always without incident. My trip started with a night in Bangui and finished via the R. Congo with the CCC. Both were safe.

The Ba'aka were undoubtedly the highlight of my trip. The indigenous Hunter-Gatherer Forest People, living in a nearby village, as well as working at the lodge and for WWF in the national park. There are not many places left in the world where you can have genuine and authentic interactions with hunter-gatherers. These people are in the forest for most of the day, looking for food and firewood. For me, the thing that stood out was their uninhibited expression of their humanity. While they, by Western standards, have nothing beyond a grass hut, don't be fooled into thinking they have nothing at all. Their relationship to and knowledge of the forest is beyond what I have ever seen or heard of, and their deep family and community bonds make our culture look shallow. They will find you as fascinating as you find them and will smile and laugh if you are playful and flirty, so bring the full expression of yourself and they will love it. On the way to Net Hunting, sit in the back of the pickup with them and they will teach you to sing their songs. Ask Tam and Rod if you can collect water from the village and interact with them there. If you dance, sing, play football, or do cartwheels and handstands, the kids (and lots of adults) will love you for it. Put on a fun show and you will get one in return. You can take photos, but give them something back (food, pencils, a big smile and lots of encouragement) and show them the pic! ... imagine how you would feel if someone started taking pictures of you outside your house.

Nature highlights include: A day or two at the Bai watching Forest Elephants, Bongos, Buffalos, and Grey Parrots! Pangolins! If you put in the effort - spending time looking up in the trees and doing night walks - you should be blessed with at least one sighting. These creatures move so beautifully through the trees. Gorillas! Typically there aren't other guests, just the trackers, gorillas, and you. The walk-in is easy, and you get nice and close! It's the cheapest place in the world to see gorillas, so why not go 2-3 times? The Bai Tour, spending your day meandering through the forest, spotting Sitatunga, monkeys, ellies, buffalo, bongos in the streams and clearings of the national park. This was one of my favourite activities; I felt like I was walking through the Garden of Eden. Kayaking/Drifting down the river, with only the sounds of the forest around me, was a truly serene experience. I felt I was in middle of the Congo Basin by myself... oh, I was! A must do. Butterflies! Isolation! Peace! Nature! Chill out in the Congo!

The lodge itself is everything you could want, need (and expect) in the middle of the forest in the C.A.R.. The huts are nestled in the trees, the showers are warm, sitting on the deck watching sunset is so peaceful, the food is nourishing. The rustic atmosphere perfectly complements the natural surroundings.

The owners, Rod and Tam are as unique as the place they live. Rod has so many stories about his life as a birder and owner of such a remote lodge. Tam could be the most gentle person on earth, and really has a deep connection to nature.

Finally, don't forget to tip the local guides, trackers, porters, drivers, & waiters if they do a good job. They are some of the most financially poor people on the planet and could do with your...

I just came back from a week at Sangha Lodge, and wow! What an unforgettable and unique experience. Tucked into the southwestern corner of the Central African Republic, and jutting into neighbouring Cameroon and Republic of Congo, I've long wanted to visit the Dzangha-Sangha reserve. That desire became even more pronounced after a fantastic trip to Odzala in Congo in 2018 (where I was lucky enough to be guided by Alon Cassidy, son of Rod and Tamar, owners of Sangha Lodge).||Wildlife viewing (as well as other attractions) in Central Africa are always quite special. The unique and the varied landscapes and the animal and plant lives that such landscapes support, coupling with the general lack of tourists gives one much closer, personal and thrilling encounters.||Suffice it to say that I came to Sangha Lodge with high expectations, but these expectations were blown away within the first hour of the first activity. Every activity I had during my stay at Sangha Lodge (spending a whole day watching close to 100 elephants interact with each other at Sangha Bai, getting thrillingly close to elephants and buffalos in the bai walk, tracking and following from a tantalizingly close distance a large group of mangabey monkeys as they go about their daily routines, the spending a morning with the Ba'aka in the forest as they hunt and forage, the amazing walk on dense rainforest with the tracker hacking away with machete to clear our path) was a highlight, and would in itself justify a visit here. But combined together (and even in the absence of gorilla visits which I understand will resume around September 2025), it is just a mind-blowing experience.||The activities aside, the lodge itself is situated in a particularly scenic riverside spot, and it is often difficult to tear oneself away from the front perch of the common areas. The rooms themselves are simply furnished and very comfortable, and with reliable hot water at all times. The food is also simple, but delightful and delicious, making much of locally available ingredients. In breakfast, you may come across locally grown fruits such as passion fruit, bananas (true African bananas that make me not want to ever eat the ultra-processed stuff we get in the US), pineapples and - most excitingly - soursop! Other meals also mix local produce (mushrooms from the forest, mashed breadfruit, fish from the river), with more international fare such as couscous, pumpkin soup, curry, bbq chicken, etc).||This is an ultra-friendly place with helpful staff, and absolutely wonderful owners. Rod and Tamar are wonderful hosts who treat you like family from the moment you arrive, and the source of countless interesting stories. They do important work, and their presence in this remote corner for the past 15 years or so is testament to how tourism and conservation, when approached correctly, can gain the support of local communities, give them tangible benefits and hopefully create sustainable solutions.||Finally, a few words about the so-called elephant in the room. Yes, the Central African Republic does not enjoy political stability. But the Bayanga region where Sangha Lodge is located is quite far from the trouble-spots, and Bangui itself is also not bad for a day or two.||I could write more and more about what a wonderful place this is, but I'll stop here, and suggest that anyone reading with even a remote interest, seriously start planning a visit. I know, I would love...