A serene riverside escape with warm hospitality – but a mattress in need of mercy
Nestled along the Yulong River, framed by the dramatic karst peaks that make Yangshuo so unique, the Yangshuo Mountain Retreat offers a setting that feels almost otherworldly. These steep, moss-green limestone formations rise like ancient sentinels from the lush landscape, while the gentle river winds past dense bamboo groves. Watching the bamboo rafts drift by from the privacy of one’s balcony is an experience in itself – especially when the mist clings to the peaks or the sky glows at sunset.
The welcome here is every bit as warm as the scenery is striking. I was greeted with lemon tea and biscuits, and personally shown to my room – a spacious haven designed in the style of a traditional Chinese home. Dark wood furniture, intricate carved details, and a four-poster canopy bed created a romantic, almost nostalgic charm. The bathroom continued the theme, with a stone basin, bamboo accents, and both a regular and a rainfall shower (though the rainfall head could use replacing for a fresher look). Everything felt lovingly maintained, clean, and tidy.
From the balcony, the view of the river and mountains was simply spellbinding. Wicker chairs invited lingering over tea or coffee – though here I must note that the in-room coffee came only in sweetened “2-in-1” sachets with powdered milk, which I personally find less appealing. In a country where unsweetened dairy products are rare, this may be a matter of local taste, but a basic black coffee option would be a welcome addition. A small but quirky omission was the lack of a stirrer or spoon – I ended up improvising with my toothbrush.
The property embraces sustainability, offering refillable glass bottles instead of single-use plastic and providing complimentary bicycles to explore the surrounding countryside – a thoughtful touch in such an eminently bike-friendly region.
The staff deserve particular praise. When I needed assistance with a travel restriction on carrying a power bank in China, they went above and beyond – making calls to the post office, checking regulations, and offering to handle the logistics entirely on my behalf. Though the solution proved impossible, the effort and genuine care left a lasting impression.
Alas, my only true disappointment – and it is a significant one – was the bed. The mattress was extremely firm, essentially a thin topper (around 10 cm) over a hard base with no give at all. Even for those accustomed to firm beds, this was unforgiving. I resorted to layering all available pillows under the sheet to soften the surface, which helped a little, but in any hotel, sleeping comfort should not be compromised. For me, a poor night’s sleep undermines even the loveliest stay, and I would strongly encourage the hotel to consider investing in better mattresses or additional cushioning.
Despite this, the Yangshuo Mountain Retreat remains an enchanting place to unwind – a slower, gentler counterpoint to busier parts of China. With scenery that stirs the soul, a palpable sense of place, and genuinely caring service, it is easy to understand why so many guests fall under its spell. If the bed were as inviting as the rest of the experience, it would be close...
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