Driving from Tokyo, even with satellite navigation, it's a wonder we found this place! You have to keep your eyes peeled for the signs (in Japanese only), and be prepared for some steep and narrow roads. And why spend all that effort to come here? Actually, I'm not sure. The 'Jindai-no-yu' onsen is a fairly new building with very clean facilities, and the onsen itself is not bad with a separate steam room. The 'roten-buro' is not really outdoors because there's a roof. But the most curious thing is that one cannot book a meal in advance, and upon checking in, the management does not really advertise the fact that they do serve both lunch, dinner and breakfast, all of which needs to be ordered and paid for on top of the room charge. Since we had arrived too early, and did not realise that there would have been lunch as well, my partner and I decided to go into the tiny town for a meal. There was only one restaurant open which was difficult to find and that was called 'K's Kitchen', serving Japanese-style Italian food that was perfectly okay. Once back in the 'Jindai-no-yu', we were shown to the room called 'Ajisai' (meaning 'Hydrangea') which was small but spotless, with a view over the bridge connecting the main building with the onsen. That was all very well, but we soon discovered that there was absolutely nothing to do until dinner time at 6pm. The place is very isolated and the area is not really suitable for country walks. At this point, we were really regretting coming here. However, when dinner time finally came around it was certainly the best thing about the place. They did not offer as many courses as some other bigger onsen, but the vegetable dishes and especially the fish were superb! We both ordered the 'kinmedai' fish (Beryx splendens, apparently) and though it looked slightly alarming when first presented, when we turned it over the flesh was both succulent and extremely tasty. Not salty. The next morning, the breakfast was also very good with a different kind of fish that was also delicious. I cannot imagine why they don't make a much bigger deal of their food. As it is, I'm sure some people miss out on it altogether, which would be a real pity since there is so little reason to...
   Read moreDriving from Tokyo, even with satellite navigation, it's a wonder we found this place! You have to keep your eyes peeled for the signs (in Japanese only), and be prepared for some steep and narrow roads. And why spend all that effort to come here? Actually, I'm not sure. The 'Jindai-no-yu' onsen is a fairly new building with very clean facilities, and the onsen itself is not bad with a separate steam room. The 'roten-buro' is not really outdoors because there's a roof. But the most curious thing is that one cannot book a meal in advance, and upon checking in, the management does not really advertise the fact that they do serve both lunch, dinner and breakfast, all of which needs to be ordered and paid for on top of the room charge. Since we had arrived too early, and did not realise that there would have been lunch as well, my partner and I decided to go into the tiny town for a meal. There was only one restaurant open which was difficult to find and that was called 'K's Kitchen', serving Japanese-style Italian food that was perfectly okay. Once back in the 'Jindai-no-yu', we were shown to the room called 'Ajisai' (meaning 'Hydrangea') which was small but spotless, with a view over the bridge connecting the main building with the onsen. That was all very well, but we soon discovered that there was absolutely nothing to do until dinner time at 6pm. The place is very isolated and the area is not really suitable for country walks. At this point, we were really regretting coming here. However, when dinner time finally came around it was certainly the best thing about the place. They did not offer as many courses as some other bigger onsen, but the vegetable dishes and especially the fish were superb! We both ordered the 'kinmedai' fish (Beryx splendens, apparently) and though it looked slightly alarming when first presented, when we turned it over the flesh was both succulent and extremely tasty. Not salty. The next morning, the breakfast was also very good with a different kind of fish that was also delicious. I cannot imagine why they don't make a much bigger deal of their food. As it is, I'm sure some people miss out on it altogether, which would be a real pity since there is so little reason to...
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