SETOUCH RETREAT by Onko Chishin — Hotel in Matsuyama

Prior to staying at a luxury ryokan in Dogo Onsen proper (Bettei Oborozukiyo), we decided to check out Setouchi Retreat Aonagi as a means to relax on site and explore Tadao Ando's creation. While there's creativity and uniqueness in the design and aesthetic of the property, it kind of left us cold.... it's a sea of concrete in our eyes. Yes, there are some interesting nooks and crannies that stirred our senses, large windows everywhere let in an abundance of natural light, and the decor was tastefully minimalistic, it still felt as if we were staying in a museum or a European castle rather than a grand and comfortable home. Something to experience once, but not really a place one craves to return - at least in our minds. And given that it's a 25-minute drive away from Dogo Onsen, you really need to be a big fan of Mr. Ando to spend more than a night here.||||Everything about the property was done right. Service is attentive and prompt, the food was very good (not top class but still a memorable experience) and the view of the Seto Inland Sea is Instagram-worthy. We were able to book the one and only Aonagi Suite, which has a massive 170 square meters of living space and is Maisonette-style with the living room having a very tall, double-height ceiling with double-height windows, allowing for breathtaking views and tons of natural light in the room. If there's one nit to pick, it's the lack of a real Onsen bath in the room, which is a bummer. And while many luxury properties in Japan provide a communal or rental Onsen facility (or both), here at Aonagi they offer a Pool with a Sauna and an Onsen Jacuzzi that can be privately rented by guests staying there. Some might like the idea of an Onsen jacuzzi, but we did not. The Onsen experience is supposed to be calm, serene and relaxing; a jacuzzi exudes more of a party atmosphere, which doesn't fit well under this concept. Also, while stylish, the pool and jacuzzi feel like being in a (artificially created) dungeon. I would've much preferred something of an open-air variety, to be honest.||||The other curious aspect of the property is the fact that all guests (other than those staying at the Aonagi Suite) are forced to dine in the main restaurant. Given that it has "Retreat" to its name, and caters to celebrities and the wealthy, I would've thought that Aonagi would offer private dining - if not in one's own room, then at least in private "koshitsu" rooms. We knew this going in, so we were thankful that the Aonagi Suite was available for booking for the date of our intended stay.||||Dinner was excellent, but how could it not be? Seafood caught in the Seto Inland Sea are world famous in quality, and everything from the local Red Sea Bream, Spanish Mackerel and White Horse Head were fantastic. The executive chef was recently transferred to the property from one of the sister properties (Iki Retreat Kairi Murakami), and still maintains connections to Iki Island that allows him access to amazing fish, namely Longtooth Groupers and Blackthroat Seaperch (the latter is among our favorite fish and a major delicacy in Japan.) The Iyo Beef Filet was also tender and flavorful for such a lean cut, and the "Takikomi Tai Meshi" (Rice cooked in a pot mixed with Red Sea Bream) was spectacular. In a way, out overall experience was different than what we expected going in. We were unsure about the quality of food and service given that much of the attention is directed to the architecture, but these aspects were the definite highlights for us.||||While we appreciate everything that Tadao Ando has accomplished in his lifetime, as a luxury hotel we don't think it works for everyone. It didn't for us. Still, there's a lot to like at Setouchi Retreat Aonagi, and we're glad that we were able to check it out. And if you really like the achitecture, then this property will be an absolute...

Setouchi Aonagi is a seven- room luxury hotel housed in a converted art museum designed by Tadeo Ando, While you may think that a seven-room hotel would be on a rather small scale, this is certainly not the case. The hotel consists of two large buildings, one containing four apartments and the main building with three. We occupied the Aonagi duplex suite on the top floor of the main building. The suite consists of a huge two-story glass-walled living room with a balcony over looking a golf course and the Matsuyama countryside with the sea and multiple small islands in the distance. The "living room" floor also has a six seat dining table, an office area, a small pantry,||multiple closets and a loo. Stairs lead up to the large glass-walled bedroom (which also overlooks the two story glass outer wall) on the second floor. Once again there are huge closets and a very large bathroom with jacuzzi. The decor is classic Tadeo Ando design, with simple, severe elegance and zero "frippery". The balcony overlooks a huge outdoor swimming pool, gardens and fountains and the lowest level of the main building contains a huge indoor spa area that can be reserved for private use and which contains a beautiful sauna that probably would accommodate 15-20 people, a large lap pool, a large jacuzzi and spacious changing rooms, showers etc. It seems a bit OTT to have the private use of this facility which in any other circumstance would be a spa club house accommodating dozens of people..This floor also contains the dining area which overlooks a fountain pool area and a rather beautiful waterfall. The cuisine is Japanese kaiseki, although by special request we were able to arrange a western breakfast .The staff is friendly and welcoming. Lastly,there are one or two pieces of art (apparently remaining from the days of the short-lived art museum) including a large Frank...

A must visit for fans of Tadao Ando’s architecture. We booked the Aonagi suite on the top floor of the main building and it did not disappoint - a large space with double height ceilings, a great view of the stunning swimming pool and the inland sea in the distance. It’s full of natural light in the day and atmospheric at night. ||Other plus points:||1. Good sound system|2. iPad for your use|3. Lots of closet space|4. Beautifully made indigo denim pyjamas |5. Chilled cava on arrival |6. Neat little alcove with study table if you need to focus on your laptop and not the stunning view in the main room |7. Comfortable beds|8. Underfloor heating if you need it |9. Spacious and well appointed bathroom (Appa Kappa toiletries)||Have a wander around the hotel as there are lots of quiet contemplative spaces to appreciate. It almost feels like you have the whole place to yourself. ||The food at the restaurant was of very high quality - delicious Japanese omakase meals prepared with local ingredients. We had dinner with a wonderful sake. Breakfast was also great - delicious and substantial. For dinner, there is a western food option but really, why would you travel not to experience a beautifully prepared traditional Japanese meal?| |It was too cold for a swim on our visit. The indoor pool (you have to book an hour’s slot to use) was a little disappointing. The dark cave like space looked better in pictures - didn’t like the damp floors and high humidity level in there.||Service was friendly and prompt...