山人-yamado- — Hotel in Nishiwaga

Yamado is acclaimed for its natural surroundings, direct-source onsen (gensen kakenagashi), and its thoughtful approach to highlighting Iwate’s local specialties. Most of the staff hail from Iwate and take visible pride in sharing the region's charms with heartfelt hospitality. If our visit is any indication, the accolades Yamado receives are well earned — especially when it comes to service. It may not be flashy, but for travelers seeking a quiet retreat with authentic hot springs far off the tourist trail, Yamado excels.||Unlike ryokans where a manicured garden might be central, Yamado embraces its remote location beside a forested hill and a gently flowing stream. The main building houses reception, a cozy lounge, and the restaurant Fukuzenbo. The property also includes a private rental bath (bookable in advance; we reserved a 4PM slot by phone) and 12 guest rooms flanking either side, each facing the hillside and river, complete with their own onsen. There isn't much to explore onsite, but what's there is deeply peaceful.||We stayed in the Luxury Suite "Buna," a 52m² room with a separate living area, bedroom, and indoor onsen convertible to semi-open-air via large sliding windows. Though it lacked a desk, we appreciated the subdued colors and calming ambiance. Buna is Yamado's second-best room; Katsura shares the same layout but sits closer to the river with an outdoor terrace onsen — unfortunately already booked on our dates. Still, the view from Buna was stunning, and we spent hours simply gazing out at the landscape.||That view reached new heights from Yu-ba Issun, Yamado's private rental bath suspended directly over the stream, hugged tightly by foliage. The onsen temperature was perfectly tuned for late June thanks to seasonal adjustments, allowing us to enjoy the full 30 minutes. I even spotted a Yamame (Japanese Cherry Trout) gliding through the water below. We returned at night and soaked under starlight in the softly illuminated setting. Here's a short clip I filmed of Yu-ba Issun:||Dinner was a Japanese-European fusion centered on Iwate's finest ingredients, with Ginsetsu chicken from Nishiwaga (developed and raised by Yamado) and Hakkinton pork from Hanamaki leading the menu. Ginsetsu — born from Nambu Kashiwa — is raised in a stress-free environment fed by mineral-rich meltwater and processed using a proprietary technique. It's quietly gaining national recognition. The chicken appeared as Shabu-Shabu hot pot and Sichuan-style sweet and sour. Hakkinton pork featured in Fusilli with ground meat and as a low-temperature grilled chop.||Local farmed and foraged plants added creative flair to many dishes. Iburi Gakko (smoked pickled daikon) was served tartare-style with Kogomi (Ostrich fern) and also appeared as a rice condiment. Mizu, a mustard spinach I hadn't encountered before, came in a sesame sauce mixed with shredded Ginsetsu chicken. A cocktail-glass starter layered Junsai (water shield), small shrimp, okra, and Kikuna (crown daisy). Even the garlic bread accompanying the Fusilli was topped with a healthy dose of Gyoja Ninniku (Siberian Onion) — delicious. Dessert was especially inventive: a baked cheesecake infused with Shidoke (a wild Asteraceae plant), topped with cranberries and raspberries, and paired with a jelly made from Soyaku-an herbal tea.||I admire Yamado's commitment to showcasing Iwate's culinary heritage, even if chicken and pork aren't usually our preferred picks for fine dining.||Breakfast brought further surprises. Alongside rice, soup, and condiments, guests could choose complimentary side dishes from an actual menu — fish, meat, vegetables, and superb homemade toast. Still full from dinner, we kept it modest, though the base offerings alone were high in quality and quantity.||Service, however, was what truly stood out. Our room attendant and dinner server, Hitomi Kamata, was exceptional. Born in Aomori and working at Yamado for five years, she went above and beyond. Knowing I record each dish as a way to document and remember, I shared that my wife typically writes furigana over difficult kanji so I can study each dish afterwards. Noticing her cast from a recent fall in Hokkaido, Hitomi handwrote furigana over every kanji on the menu — an extraordinarily thoughtful gesture!||When I asked if she planned to transfer to Yamado's new sister property in Akita's Oga Peninsula, she smiled and explained she was still learning here and had no plans to leave. That kind of dedication and the enduring spirit of apprenticeship in Japan continues to inspire.||Throughout the property, we spotted professional-quality framed photos and paintings — created by staff, no less. Their love for the region and desire to delight guests is unmistakable. Yamado truly runs on a one-for-all, all-for-one ethos.||The most convenient access route is via Iwate Hanamaki Airport followed by a scenic hour-long drive, which is what we did. For those opting for public transport, it's a three-hour Shinkansen ride to Kitakami Station, then a 45-minute local train to Hottoyuda Station (Yamado offers pick-up service). Not the most accessible destination by rail, but well worth...

Only one night stay , but the accommodations where outstanding. Just 12 rooms so very quiet. Simple Japanese mid century furniture in the room... sizable in room bath for 2 ( I'm 6'2) - very comfortable. The private outdoor onsen was relaxing in the cold night air and again the next morning seeing all the fall colors. Reservations are required for the outdoor bath. The moment you enter the feeling is tranquil. We really admired the style and color decor. The food was great. A great Japanese dining experience. All farm to table from the region and property itself. The service even better. Fantastic staff. I really can't say enough about the quality of the property and personal attention it offers. Yamado is not to be missed. Take the drive, its well worth it. Mahalo nui loa for making our stay so memorable. Rob...

It was a very memorable stay at Yamado. The room was nice with private onsen. The dinner was of the most fresh vegetable. The staff was very helpful and a special Thank you to 橋本翔也樣 who took very good care of us during both dinner and breakfast. He used ipad photos to introduce us the food we were about to eat and recommended us to try Warabi which was very delicious. We had so much food at breakfast and the food/jucie was very tasty. We were told we could order some items as much as we like. it was all so wonderful. ||The private onsen outdoor was just as good as what other people had mentioned. I used the private onsen when there was heavy snow and it was an...