Kaiyu — Hotel in Tosashimizu

After reading about the unspoiled and pristine beaches of Okinohama Kaiyu's raving reviews, I was determined to make the trip to this quiet corner of Shikoku. The journey from Matsuyama was a long one (nearly a full day) that consisted of 3 trains and a bus and had absolutely no margin for error (if you miss one of the trains, you have no choice but to wait until the next day). This was incredibly discouraging at first but I'm so glad that we decided to go. Kaiyu is a place that can't quite be grouped into a conventional category like a hotel. The building dates from the mid-1900s and once belonged to the father of Mitsu (the current owner). What's impressive is that him and his wife run the place entirely by themselves (everything including cleaning, maintenance, meals, concierge) and there are no other staff working there other than occasional friends who come over to help. Because we were there during a calmer season (two weeks before Golden Week), there was only one other couple staying at Kaiyu at the same time, and this gave the very surreal impression that we had this entire building to ourselves. The vibe of Kaiyu is very much like a relaxed and laid-back beach house. Many of the permanent fixtures of the building (carpeting, bathrooms, appliances) have not been upgraded, so it feels a little bit like stepping back in time to the 1960s. The rooms are all different and have all been decorated in a very beachy and eclectic manner by Mitsu himself. We opted for a reasonably priced room, though they have more expensive ones that I believe have been renovated. Our room had working appliances and anything you would need to make a basic meal. All rooms have ocean-facing views. Kaiyu has a wonderful onsen with natural hot spring water, bike rentals and snorkeling equipment rentals. Kaiyu is located conveniently across the street from the beautiful Oki beach that is practically deserted with the exception of a few local surfers. One activity that I would definitely recommend would be renting bicycles and cycling around the Ashizuri Cape, which takes you to breathtaking cliff-top ocean views and some awesome seafood restaurants (ask Mitsu for suggestions). What made our stay at Kaiyu so special was Mitsu and his family. The warm hospitality that they showed us was unprecedented and they truly made us feel like we were guests staying at their home. One of my favourite parts of the stay was their family-style dinner, which I would highly recommend (3500 yen). Mitsu's wife is an incredible cook and prepared a feast of locally-sourced Japanese fare with plenty of fresh seafood and a variety of vegetables. I was travelling with my cousin, who is vegan, and they were kind enough to prepare MANY tasty vegan dishes. This dinner was not only memorable because of the food, but because we all ate together and the evening was filled with great conversation and plenty of laughter. Mitsu has a philosophy that he has applied to Kaiyu and which contributes to its unconventional charm. He values sustainable, eco-friendly and simple living, so don't visit Kaiyu expecting the luxury, grandeur, and sterility (and free WiFi) of a typical chain hotel. He is a free-spirited, open-minded and outgoing host who seeks out like-minded guests who can contribute to Kaiyu's wonderful atmosphere. If you are this type of person, I guarantee that you will enjoy staying at Kaiyu. In terms of value, I found the price to be quite reasonable (40,000 yen for two nights for two people including room, dinner both nights, onsen both nights, bike rentals, towel rentals). The only downside to this spectacular location is that there are no grocery stores or restaurants in the nearby surroundings, meaning you need to either take a bus or bike to the nearby town if you don't plan on having your meals at Kaiyu. However this was a minor detail and the experience of staying in Kaiyu, meeting Mitsu and his family, and exploring Oki beach and Ashizuri cape by bike was so memorable that I cannot wait to return one day. Thank you so much Mitsu for the...

Wow wow wow! Kaiyu is really a special place. The family that runs it is so warm and welcoming, and their philosophy of trying to create a space where they and their guests can have meaningful connections even if for a short time was something unique, especially for Japan.||The family style meals were both delicious and healthy. Mitsu-san has the extrovert's skill of getting everyone talking, so they are always lively events too. It's telling that on the nights we were there, almost everyone else was a repeat guest, some who had been coming for 10 years or more. ||The nearby beach is walkable, with beautiful water and sand. Great for surfing, relaxing, snorkling or swimming.||Each room is a bit different: for example, one is renovated with surfers in mind and the bed is raised so they can see the beach and check the condition of the waves without getting up. Others have a more traditional Japanese look or are pet-friendly. Show up early and you can look at a couple to find the one best suited for you.||One point to be aware: Kaiyu is trying to be as low-impact, sustainable, and natural as possible, so they ask guests to bring their own towels, amenities are limited, and only natural detergents and soaps are used. Additionally, they try to conserve electricity, reuse and repair everything, and basically be as simple as possible. In contrast with your typical resort property or hotel, where the idea is to supply everything and have everything be as new and luxurious as possible, this simplicity can be jarring or feel run down at first, but after one night it feels like the most natural thing in the world, and turns your focus to the beautiful natural world around the property.||Kaiyu is not for everyone, but if it matches your vibe, it will be your favorite...

Wow wow wow! Kaiyu is really a special place. The family that runs it is so warm and welcoming, and their philosophy of trying to create a space where they and their guests can have meaningful connections even if for a short time was something unique, especially for Japan.||The family style meals were both delicious and healthy. Mitsu-san has the extrovert's skill of getting everyone talking, so they are always lively events too. It's telling that on the nights we were there, almost everyone else was a repeat guest, some who had been coming for 10 years or more. ||The nearby beach is walkable, with beautiful water and sand. Great for surfing, relaxing, snorkling or swimming.||Each room is a bit different: for example, one is renovated with surfers in mind and the bed is raised so they can see the beach and check the condition of the waves without getting up. Others have a more traditional Japanese look or are pet-friendly. Show up early and you can look at a couple to find the one best suited for you.||One point to be aware: Kaiyu is trying to be as low-impact, sustainable, and natural as possible, so they ask guests to bring their own towels, amenities are limited, and only natural detergents and soaps are used. Additionally, they try to conserve electricity, reuse and repair everything, and basically be as simple as possible. In contrast with your typical resort property or hotel, where the idea is to supply everything and have everything be as new and luxurious as possible, this simplicity can be jarring or feel run down at first, but after one night it feels like the most natural thing in the world, and turns your focus to the beautiful natural world around the property.||Kaiyu is not for everyone, but if it matches your vibe, it will be your favorite...