Totsukawa Tousenji Onsen Yunotani Senkei — Hotel in Totsukawa

Yunotani Senkei surpassed our expectations. On the one hand, its remoteness is part of its charm, but it must be challenging to offer quality service, amenities and food in such a small property in a far away locale. On the other hand, Yunotani Senkei does not come cheap, so it's understandable that guests would hope for a great stay. Regardless, Yunotani Senkei delivered a luxury ryokan experience. No, it's not on the same level as Gora Kadan or Wanosato, but there were no service flaws to speak of, and it had a charm all its own.||||Assuming you're fine with the room rates they charge, whether to stay at Yunotani Senkei would largely depend on what you plan to do during your visit, and whether you have a car. We intended to walk the portion of the Kumano Kodo Nakahechi Trail that starts at Hosshinmon-oji (発心門王子) and ends at Kumano Hongū Taisha (熊野本宮大社.) For that, it's a 40-minute drive from Yunotani Senkei. You might thing that's a bit of a haul, but when you consider that the Kii Peninsula is absolutely massive, your luxury options are very limited, and Yunotani Senkei is possibly the highest end ryokan within "proximity" of the Nakahechi circuit. If you don't have a car, you're best bet is to sacrifice some comfort and food quality and stay in Kumano Hongu proper.||||Since it's a relatively new property, the rooms are fresh and clean (smells it, too) and features amenities and technology that one comes to expect from a luxury establishment. At the same time, they've managed to do that while still giving it a sense of place - it exudes a rustic, rural vibe that is fitting given its location. We stayed in a the top category cottage/suite (Sumire - 菫, to be exact), which is a relatively spacious 79m² in size. And, the suites have a beautiful and soothing private open-air onsen bath right in the suite room's garden. Pure bliss.||||Service wise, everything was great. Our butler lady was not your usual hostess. Unlike most of the attendants that tend to be on the unobtrusively and discreet side, she was loud, boisterous and full of energy. It's not the norm in Japan, and we were somewhat taken aback at first, but once you get to know her, it's all about her enthusiasm - and of being herself, which was just fine by us, because she was warm spirited and really did everything she could to make our stay (and journey) as memorable as possible. She was always asking about our plans, and offering advice (including weather forecasts and things to be mindful of), but did it in a way was not nosy, but rather caring.||||Normally, meals are served in the main restaurant, but due to the pandemic they serve meals in the guest rooms, which is the way we like it! And, as an extra precautionary measure, they place the food on several large trays and leave it outside the door, which is also fine by us. The food was more than adequate. Was it among the most memorable meals ever? I wouldn't go that far (mind you, we've experienced some of the finest ryokan cuisines that Japan has to offer many times over), but the meals made us happy and content, and it added to our overall delightful experience there.||||Is it among the top 5 ryokans we've ever stayed at? No. But Yunotani Senkei needs not make any apologies - it's a great place for a retreat for those wanting to get away from Osaka or Kyoto for a day or two, and a good luxury option if you're planning on trekking a part of Kumano...

If you are looking for a luxury onsen experience, look no further than the Yunotani Senkei ryokan. We stayed in this hotel for 2 nights in July 2018 as a base to explore the area (Kumano Kodo, Hongu, etc.). This new hotel is secluded in the middle of the mountains, and draws its curative 50 degree Celsius waters straight from the spring source. It’s one of the few places in Japan which offers your own private bath in the comfort of your own room. After a carefully crafted, authentic Japanese dinner with locally sourced ingredients, you return to your room for a long soak under the stars and all you can hear is the soothing sound of the river flowing down from the mountains. Staying at this place was the highlight of our 2-week trip across Japan. The owners and staff were incredibly friendly. We are...

The onsen waters are sourced directly from the spring - a rarity in japan. The springs have been around for 650 years. No additional spring water added, or additional heating either. The rooms are brand new, and seem to be a mix of Japanese and rustic Scandinavian design.

Maybe bc we were the only guests and got deluxe treatment as a result, but the dinner was delicious too. One of the better ryokans I stayed at (vs Wa No Sato near Takayama, Yatsusunkan in Hida Furukawa, Shirahone Yamato Saito, Tsuki hi...