The Lodge at Hot Lake Springs — Hotel in La Grande

There is a place where history lingers like steam rising off the surface of mineral-rich water, where the weight and memories of time seem to soak into the bones of those who enter. It is a place of mystery, of healing, and, if the stories are to be believed, of ghosts. Welcome to The Lodge at Hot Lake Springs aka The Hot Lake Hotel, an old-world relic nestled in the quiet mountain landscape of La Grande, Oregon, a place where the past refuses to fade and the waters never cool.

I found my way to the Hot Lake not because of the legends but because of the water. Like so many before me, I came in search of something — relief, renewal, release, relaxation. What I discovered though, was more than just the benefits of mineral soaking; it was the realization that this place, like some places are alive, holding onto energy from every soul that has passed through, keeping memories suspended in mist, was one of them.

Hot Lake Hotel was once a wild west beacon of hope and healing. Established in the 1860s, it quickly became a destination for those seeking the curative properties of its geothermal springs. By the early 1900s, it had transformed into a renowned medical spa and sanatorium, often referred to as the “Mayo Clinic of the West.” It was state-of-the-art, completed with a hospital, post office, and a dance hall. People traveled from all over to immerse themselves in its steaming pools, believing in their power to heal arthritis, paralysis, and other chronic ailments.

In recent years, Hot Lake has seen a resurgence under new ownership. The current owners, who have dedicated themselves to restoring the historic site, have brought new life to the property. The owners, along with dedicated staff, have worked diligently to preserve its architectural and historical integrity while revitalizing its reputation as a wellness destination.

Through careful restoration efforts and adding modern amenities, they have created a bridge between the past and the present, ensuring visitors can experience the lake's history and healing power. The work has turned Hot Lake from a forgotten relic into a thriving retreat, where guests can immerse themselves in the mineral waters while soaking in the rich stories that define this unique location.

My commitment to visiting Hot Lake twice a month started as an experiment — a way to incorporate a more primal and ancient healing routine into my modern self-care practice. I had read about the benefits of hot mineral springs, how their high concentrations of sulfur, magnesium, lithium, and bicarbonates could restore the body, reduce inflammation, and even balance the nervous system. Even so, I wasn’t prepared for just how deeply this ritual would change me.

Each time I lower my body into the naturally heated water, it’s like stepping into a different world. The sulfuric steam wraps around me, mildly offending my nostrils while oddly subduing them, it is thick and heavy and works at dissolving the weight carried on my back, neck, and shoulders. The unfiltered water itself is not just hot; it is alive, pulsing with an energy that seems to reach directly into the muscles, the joints, into the cells of the body. My breathing slows, my presence returns.

What makes this water different from a hot tub or bath soak is how the geothermal energy functions like natural infrared therapy. Much like an infrared sauna, the thermal waters penetrate deep into the body, stimulating circulation, oxygenation, and cellular repair. The result? A profound release of tension, ease in muscle recovery, and clarity of mind lingering long after I step out of the pools.

Elemental connection happens here. Minerals seep through the skin as my pores open, nourishing and stimulating recalibration, while the mind unwinds in the energetic flow of water and the volcanic frequencies coursing through the stone surrounding me. Each soak becomes a meditation a chance to let go, to...

This is our second stay, and my third visit. This time, we chose to spend 2 nights, and visit the spa on our full day. Check-in was smooth and professional, and the staff was entirely helpful, present, attentive, and responsive during our stay. We again stayed in the Carlton Suite, as it is on the main floor. The first night was peaceful, with birdsong out the window. The second night, there were many guests, so we could hear people. (The guests above us were running--literally--around their room until after 10, when I asked the front desk to deal with it....the noise stopped within minutes.) There is no air conditioning, due to the age of the building, so windows are open and fans are running. Yet, it was very comfortable temperature-wise. (In the winter, they use the spring water in radiators, so it's always nicely warm.) I slept on the hide-a-bed, which was fine. Downsides: no closet (there are hooks on the wall and a luggage rack), no hair dryer (people have stolen them!). Beverages: Coffee is down the hall, ice water in a dispenser at the front desk. There is wine available on-site, by the glass in the coffee/wine bar, or some bottles are for sale in the gift shop. Soaking: Fabulous, again! This time we tried one of the in-ground tubs in the courtyard, which was fun, but hard for my 80-year old mother-in-law to enter and exit. So, the second day, we used the Spring House, with above-ground units, and it was fine. Yes, there are bits of flora in the water, but it's to be expected--this is NATURAL hot spring water. And the bits are tiny, look like pieces of moss, nothing scary. They clean the tubs between guests. Robes in the rooms, towels for soaking use. All was good! Breakfast: The same menu daily, a frittata and waffles, juice, water and coffee/tea. I saw a review elsewhere that intimated that the waffles were not fresh, so I asked. Rosemary makes them each and every day. It was a nice breakfast, and the service is friendly, attentive, and informative (she answered many questions!). Lunch: Not available. Some of their materials indicate that the restaurant is open for lunch, but it isn't. Union (a very few more miles north up the road) has 2 options, and La Grande (a very few miles back south) has many. Dinner: Wow! Guests have access to a prix fixe menu at Ten Depot, and it's fabulous. A great deal, too... only $25 per person for an app, soup/salad, main course and dessert. There are 3-4 choices for each course save the soup/salad. This time, we had the prime rib, which was delicious. Oh, and the huckleberry cheesecake was great, too! Spa: Oh, my! We chose to do the Spa Bundle, as a treat. The workers were professional and expert. No suggestions for improvement there! They are busy with local folks, as well as guests, so be sure to make an appointment. Full-service: hair, nails, massage, scrubs, soaks, etc. Grounds: nicely kept, interesting, historic, peaceful. Yes, there are lots of birds. They like the warm water, just like we do! We were excited to see an owl walking on a branch in the courtyard--in full daylight! Museum: Incredible. Be sure to leave at least an hour, if not two, to see everything. Bronzes: Manuel's bronzes are in a large open room by the gift shop, with seating so you can enjoy the art work. There are also large statues on the property. Talented artist, beautiful works.

Before we left, I walked the upper two floors, and looked in other rooms. They are all sponsored by different people, so every one is decorated differently. Some have full baths, some are 1/2 baths; some have tubs, some have showers, and some have communal facilities down the hall. There is one room that is in the original condition for historical record and for us to see--appalling! They've done SO much work...and it shows. Fascinating building and history.

Lovely getaway for a night or two. We will certainly be back...

I would like to start out by saying that my wife and I had very high hopes for our stay here. The state of the location and the weather conditions likely played into our overall let down. There were definitely some nice aspects and I believe in a few years that this will be a wonderful hotel as the owners work out the kinks. However, I would be amiss to agree with other reviewers by claiming this was a 5 star accommodation. As I wrote to the owners, I have stayed in Motel 6s that were nicer, with more amenities for a third of the cost.

The room was freshly renovated and had new paint on the walls. The bed was firm and clean. The in room bathroom was a bit drafty and a little hazardous to get to in the middle of the night without turning on a light. You step up a couple of stairs into what I think was once a closet. I get the classic feel that the owners are going for with decorations but it honestly felt dated. The rooms electrical looked new but was run through conduit pipe and painted to blend in. Our private shower was also located in the corner of the bedroom, allowing for little modesty and the water pressure was not great. It definitely made the task of cleaning off the smell of the hot spring difficult.

The hotel, again while going for a classic look, felt run down and there was construction everywhere. I'm unsure if they are working in the third floor but it certainly sounded like it in our room around 8:30am. A lot of the exposed construction areas could have easily been hidden with curtains if they tried. Instead, the ongoing work left us feeling like we were walking through an active job site. That said, the night staff and contractors were all very pleasant people to talk to, wore masks, and respected distancing for our visit.

The hot spring pools maintained temps between 102 and 106 on the evening of our stay. The view and ambiance were of the larger feed pool with local highway and active train tracks behind it. If you enjoy watching traffic to relax then you will be in heaven because the road was fairly active despite the heavy winds and snow. The pool area was clean, but the benches inside the pool were very slick with algae. There are no hand rails around the 3 main tubs and it is very easy to slip and hurt yourself. It may have been the conditions during our stay but it also seemed that the entrances to the pool area had been strategically placed to funnel the wind across the pools like a wind tunnel and could have probably been fixed by adding a 90 degree turn at the entrance for a wind break.

Finally, I would like to point out that we had reservations at the hot springs during a horrible snow storm where roads were regularly being closed because they were unpassable. We reached out to the hosts and tried to reschedule our visit with an upgrade and they refused to allow this. They also pointed to their airbnb policy for cancellations despite the state of the weather. It honestly felt like the owners did not care about us as customers because they already had our money. We made it out thanks to careful planning and having an AWD vehicle with studded snow tires but the entire experience definitely left a bad taste in our mouth. Between the construction, our interaction with the owners, and the overall value we will not be returning to or recommending...