Picos de Europa — Local services in Cabrales

The Picos de Europa really exeeded my expectations. We went during off-season time, at the end of may/beginning of June. And because of that, the hikes were not busy at all. The picos are gorgeous and easy accesible. Lots of different hikes with amazing breathtaking views! We were in the Picos de Europa for 6 days. We stayed at Hotel del Oso (5/5 stars!) For 3 days, Which is close to Fuente De and Potes. In this area, we hiked route Brez PR-PNP 27, it's a really nice circular route. Great views, easy to reach, average intensity, 3hr hike (lots of sheep poop though, bring some extra shoes for changing). The following day we went up the Fuente De. You can go up and down the El cable or go up and hike down to Fuente (hike Puertos de Aliva). I really recommend hiking down, it's beautiful 😍. And very rewarding! It takes about 5 hours and is mostly downhill/plateau-ish. You will have views of the valleys, mountain peaks, very diverse hike! Nearing the end of the hike, there is some uphill/downhill hiking but overall it's an average intensity hike. The last 3 days we stayed at the other side of the Picos, in the town Arenas de Cabrales at Hotel picos de Europa. It's a really good location if you want to do Ruta del Cares, which is a ~5-6 hr hike through a river gorge, we started from Poncebos and hiked both ways. Again, really great hike! In the end, we decided to skip lake covadonga because of the hassle with the busses etc and our legs needed a break. Instead, we decided to go kayaking in Arriondas, lots of fun! Love to visit the...

Well worth a visit! Green hills, snowy mountain tops, tiny mountain roads, different on every side, ... Only thing that disapointed me was when I tried to visit the Covadonga lakes, it was outside of tourist season but still I had to park up 12km from the lakes and they make you buy a bus ticket to travel to the lakes, which I didn't do. In the north I drove up to the village of Sotres, through tiny goat-filled mountain roads. Lovely little village with alot of walking opportunities around. In the south I stopped at the Collado de Llesba viewing point. From here I started a 4 hour walk to the top of Pico Cariscao and back. Snow on the tops made it difficult, but possible. Best to use decent kompass and maps or a good GPS system as not...

Los Picos de Europa no necesitan presentación: tres macizos calizos que se alzan a medio camino entre el Cantábrico y la Meseta, con cumbres que rasgan las nubes y desfiladeros que obligan a bajar la voz. Aquí el paisaje manda y tú obedeces.

Lo que ves

Picu Urriellu (Naranjo de Bulnes) como faro mineral.

Gargantas vertiginosas labradas por el Cares y el Deva.

Praderas colgadas a 1 700 m donde pastan ovejas que saben a queso.

Bosques atlánticos que huelen a haya mojada y silencian el móvil.

Experiencias imprescindibles

Ruta del Cares – 11 km de cornisa suspendida sobre el río. Acaba de estrenar firme y muros de contención: se pisa mejor y se respira igual de hondo.

Lagos de Covadonga – postal de alta montaña accesible desde Cangas de Onís; ve temprano o en temporada baja para esquivar buses lanzadera.

Teleférico de Fuente Dé – 753 m de desnivel en 4 minutos; Cantabria regulará el acceso a partir de 2025 para evitar el turismo masivo, así que reserva antes de subir.

Senda del Texu a Bulnes – empedrado histórico reabierto tras obras: un kilómetro vertical que acaba en sidra bien escanciada.

Vida de pueblo & fogones

Potes, Arenas de Cabrales y Cangas de Onís sirven de base: hostales familiares, tiendas de botas y olor a leña.

Prueba fabada, borona preñada y el eterno queso Cabrales; marida con un culín de sidra o con vino de Liébana si refresca.

Cuándo ir

Abril-junio: agua en cascadas y hayedos en pleno brote.

Septiembre-octubre: cielos estables, berrea y menos gente.

Invierno solo para montañeros curtidos; las nieves son tan bellas como traicioneras.

Consejos directos

Mete chubasquero sí o sí: el Cantábrico cambia el tiempo en una hora.

Calzado rígido; la caliza corta.

Reserva parking y teleférico online; el nuevo Plan Rector prioriza cupos y transporte público.

Lleva efectivo: no todos los refugios...