Edinburgh International Climbing Arena — Local services in City of Edinburgh

Yesterday, my friends and I decided to go for a bouldering session.

Due to covid, these ones had to be booked in advanced through the "Edinburgh leisure" app, otherwise you would risk to lose your place since there were limited spaces.

First of all, the app didn't work properly. I wasted about 20 minutes filling up all the forms and, after that, it just crashed with a message saying "there's a restriction for this purchase. Please contact your centre for more information". I was wondering why the app had a rate of 2.8 stars on GooglePlay before I downloaded it. Now I understand. My other two pals were able to book it, but both of them needed to repeat the process twice.

I phoned "EICA Ratho" because I couldn't do it through the app, and I was on hold for other 20 minutes and I gave it up too. Nobody answered, there was this typical automatic voice message saying "There was a high volume of calls at the moment, please wait". At first I believed it, because I guessed that everyone was trying to book after all this time; when I went there and I saw 4 people working very quietly, not so much.

So, despite of my unsuccessful attempts to book a bouldering session, I drove all the way there from Edinburgh risking that somebody could have booked my spot. I didn't mind doing that because I thought it was going to be worth. I really fancied to have a nice afternoon climbing with my friends after all this time.

When we got there, I was able to book and pay at the place, I thought I was real lucky. Then I found out why it was plenty of spaces for bouldering.

We went downstairs to the bouldering room, and when we opened the door, two staff girls blocked our way to get in, no words came out of their mouth, they just stood there looking at us. Then I said: we just paid a bouldering session, can I?. And they replied: "this is closed at the moment, if you booked for bouldering you cannot use this room, you can only use the ones outside"

That was really disappointing, because we paid the full price to use only 40% of the facilities, considering that "the bouldering room" is bigger and occupies roughly more than half of the total. We didn't complain at that point, we just accepted it, kept on going and went to the small place where it was really cold and the roof was leaking in several places. Half of the rocks were missing as well on the wall, so, if we originally were gonna use 40% of the facilities, now we were using 20%.

At this point, we weren't happy at all. The biggest room closed, half of the rocks in the small place missing and a massive puddle of 1sq. metre in the middle of the pads.

So we spoke with one member of the staff, probably the nicest guy of the place, telling him what happened. We politely asked if we could have one harness each, we didn't need the ropes, only the harnesses. That way we could use the automatic machines and we would have a bigger range of options since there wasn't much to do with the few rocks available.

This gentleman understood us, gave us the harnesses and then another member of the staff (the same lady blocking us the way in the bouldering room door before) came to tell us that, due to health and safety, we needed to go upstairs and exchange some papers. I was surprised that she told us about this health and safety matters, I saw puddles and leaks everywhere but no signs anywhere.

Talking to one of the ladies in the front desk, she told us that if we didn't know how to belay with a rope, unfortunately we couldn't get the harnesses. Despite of only needing the harnesses to use the electric ropes.

At the end, they gave us our money back, so that was us wasting 90 minutes on driving, diesel and our time with all the problems with the app and their lack of communication.

I politely suggested that they should say something about the bouldering situation on the app, but the lady on the desk replied that it wasn't on the app, but it was actually on the Edinburgh leisure website, in small writing somewhere that I bet they don't even know. That's called "misleading...

There are good measures in place for social distancing although it is a balance between being financially solvent and how many people should be allowed in to the arena.

I've seen groups of 7 or 8 people, who I doubt are from the same household. I like the social distancing lines but people still struggle with complying with rules and using these whilst others are on routes either side. This is difficult if you are mid-climb to challenge.

There is an increase in single climbers using the autobelays. It has been a bit difficult to get on them, which inevitably leads to a growing number of climbers lingering to get on a route.

It's a shame the coffee shop isn't open yet, it would be easy enough to create a one way system should anyone want a warm drink, especially coming in to colder times.

The staff are still very good and I could see people being approached to put their mask on. There are loudspeaker reminders but I'm sure these will become white noise in time.

Every person should take responsibility for limiting the spread of the virus, otherwise EICA will be forced to close down again, the staff will suffer. Follow the rules, wear a mask, don't climb on social distance routes if others are either side, otherwise you will ruin it for everyone else...

Bouldering There is a small room and three 'boulders' in the main room. We are beginner-ish: 5 on the european scale, V1-V2 on Hueco scale.

In the small room most of the routes have an overhang (some severe), only 3 routes were reasonable for beginners. Then on the boulders in the main room also 3/4 routes were possible for beginners. The boulders require you to use the actual 'rock surface'. Which makes it quite difficult for beginners and different from what you would be used to. Especially as sometimes there are no starting foot holds. The rental shoes are worn and the inside of some of them were nasty.

There are lockers in the changing room in which you need £1 and then this is returned. Smaller lockers in the big room. Unfortunately people tend to leave their bags everywhere, sure not on the mats but everywhere else on the edge of the mats. The big room is quite cold so would advise a small mid-layer to use while warming up.

I would advise the facility only for wall climbing and would not advertise it for beginner boulderers.

There is a cafe, toilets, changing rooms, gym, clip and climb and...