🇲🇦 Morocco Diaries: My Love-Hate Relationship with Fes

Fes was... an experience. Let’s just say I’m glad I went—but I won’t be rushing back. The Good: Why I Came I booked a 3-day Sahara desert tour (Merzouga to Fes) specifically to explore this legendary city. I dreamed of: The iconic tanneries: Those rainbow dye pits I’d seen on Instagram! Medina magic: Wandering 9,000 alleys, bargaining for spices, and sipping mint tea like a local. History overload: The world’s oldest university (Al Quaraouiyine, founded 859 AD!) and medieval architecture. The Reality: Why I’m Side-Eyeing Fes But oh, Fes had other plans for me... 1️⃣ The Tanneries: A Stinky Scam? Yes, the Chouara Tannery is visually stunning. But: "Free viewing" = myth. Every shop owner demands a "guide fee" (10-50 MAD) to access their rooftop. The smell? Imagine rotten eggs marinated in ammonia. The mint leaves they give you are a pathetic defense. Hard sell trap: After the view, you’re herded into a leather showroom. "Just look!" turns into high-pressure haggling (a "discounted" bag = still 3x the fair price). 2️⃣ Medina Maze = Pickpocket Paradise Google Maps does not work. At all. "Helpful" locals swarm lost tourists, offering directions—then demand outrageous tips (or lead you to their cousin’s shop). I got cornered in a dead-end alley by teens "guiding" me until I paid 20 MAD to leave. Charming. 3️⃣ The Desert Tour Bait-and-Switch My Merzouga-to-Fes tour promised a "cultural stop in Fes." Instead: The driver dumped us at a random carpet shop for 1 hour (not optional). Our "guided medina tour" was a 30-minute speedwalk to—you guessed it—another overpriced leather store. The Silver Linings (Yes, There Were Some!) Al Attarine Madrasa: 20 MAD for serene courtyards & insane mosaics. Worth every dirham. Food wins: Found a tiny stall serving Msemen (Moroccan pancakes) with honey for 5 MAD. Heavenly! Sunset at Marinid Tombs: Free, peaceful, and no touts. The best moment of my Fes visit. Final Verdict Fes is beautiful, chaotic, and exhausting. Go—but arm yourself with these tips: ✔️ Never follow "guides" (even kids). ✔️ Haggle harder than a Berber merchant (start at 1/3 the asking price). ✔️ Pack patience (and hand sanitizer). #Morocco #Fes #TravelFails #SoloTravel #ToughLove #LessonLearned 😅🐪