Mekelle & Axum Guide: Post-Conflict Travel Tips

1. Mekelle’s region has just emerged from civil war, and my original plan was to find a local freelance guide to hire a car—hoping for a budget-friendly way to visit the volcanoes and sulfur lakes. But between three years of disruptions and the recent conflict, so much has changed. The route to the volcanoes now starts from Semera, and there are countless checkpoints along the way. Even freelance guides without local connections would struggle to get through, so honestly? Save yourself the hassle and book a proper tour. It’s safer and more reliable. 🌍🚐⚠️ 2. Unless you’ve got extra time to spare, there’s no need to make a special trip here. The bus from Addis Ababa takes 16 hours—grueling, to say the least. As for Axum, the ancient imperial city feels a bit underwhelming, though its cliffside churches are a highlight. I even tried climbing one barefoot, no ropes—definitely an adventure! 🚌🏛️🧗♂️ 3. Mekelle: Mostly a Transit Hub - Accommodation : Union Pension costs 350 birr, but after staying there, I got bitten by bugs everywhere. Whitney Hotel, at 400 birr, was better—no bites. Worth the extra 50 birr for peace of mind. - Transport : Buses to Axum leave the drop-off point at 5:30 AM, 520 birr for a 5-hour ride. Minibuses head back at 3 PM for 500 birr. The Axum minibus station is labeled “Axum Bus Station” on maps. - Pro Tip : Hire a car for both places—around 12,000 birr for a small vehicle, 2 days, fuel included. Negotiate clearly: confirm the route, fuel coverage, and whether accommodation/meals are part of the deal. 🏨🚌🚗 4. Axum: Focus on the Obelisks & Church - The main spots are the Axum Obelisks and the Church of the Ark of the Covenant. Both charge entry fees: 300 birr for the obelisks (you can see them fine from outside—no need to pay!), and 1,000 birr for the church. Skip the obelisk ticket unless you’re set on getting up close. 🗿⛪💸 5. Abuna Yem’ata Guh Cliff Church - The road is steep, and the final stretch? Pure, rope-free climbing—barefoot. Locals keep an eye out, but it’s not exactly safe. Still, it’s wild and fun—choose based on your comfort. - Costs: 300 birr per person for entry, no guide needed. For the climb, though, pay locals to help—they’ll point out handholds and footrests. Four of us split 800 birr total. Once at the top, the church itself is 200 birr to enter. Inside, there are stunning murals—dating to the 16th century, in a church that’s been here since the 5th century. Absolutely worth it. 🧗♀️💰🎨 #TigrayTravel #CliffChurchAdventures #OffTheBeatenPath #AxumDiaries #BudgetTravelEthiopia #EthiopiaRoadTips