Utsjoki Aurora Holidays & restaurant — Restaurant in Northern Lapland

In late October I decided that I wanted to see the Northern Lights again, after checking with friends it became clear quickly that my best chances would be somewhere in Northern Lapland. Looking closer I found Tiina's family business with full board catering and of course the best chances to see the Lights. Tiina made sure to meet all my travel requirements and even got an extra driver to pick me up at Ivalo Airport as my flights got delayed. After driving 2 h through the arctic landscape we arrived at the shores of the Teno River and had some time to rest in my Finn Hut with its own sauna and all you need to feel right at home. The food was amazing and local stuff dominates the menu, with reindeer, arctic cod and fish from local lakes. But Tiina and the chef will make sure that you feel right at home there with vegan and vegetarian options provided. The first night we didn't see the aurora due to clouds. Next morning the skies started to clear and we did a snow shoe hike up to a hut on the fell where we had a fire and sausages. After resting and another amazing dinner the skies cleared and the Northern Lights began to shine faintly at first before filling the whole sky and dancing wonderfully above our heads. The happened the next two nights. As a photographer I was keen on exploring the area a bit an one day the Jonna took me on tour for three hours and the other day Tiina took us to Nuorgam up on a fell were we witness the beautiful arctic twilight. Also feeding the domestic reindeers was a cool experience and I learned a lot about the Sami culture. Just to put it all in a nutshell: This place is amazing. Tiina and the guides are very knowledgeable when it comes to reading the geomagnetic data, so they will know when to be out. They have a great network of resources in the surrounding communities so they will go all the way to make sure to see the lights. Only minimal disruptions in the solar wind are needed to spark amazing aurora displays in Utsjoki. Nevertheless, the weather that close to the Arctic Ocean can be tricky and you might have a week when it never clears at night, but Tiina and her guides will do all they can to hunt the northern lights! I will come back here and just fell in love...

The stories about the Northern Lights in Lapland are true. Visible by 7:45 pm two evenings we were there, we witnessed the lights dancing and playing across the darkening sky, growing lighter than darker than changing again, for nearly three hours. Standing still you could actually see them move across a sky full of stars. While there is no guarantee the lights will appear, they show up there many clear winter nights. Aurora Holidays is in Utsjoki – which is about as far north as you can get – and the resort is in a small town which is still so remote that there is no problem with light pollution. We saw the lights merely by stepping outside our cabins.

The lights were gorgeous by themselves but the experience of seeing them was enhanced by the staff at Aurora Holidays. First was their enthusiasm for the lights and our own experience. It was as if they too were seeing the lights for the first time. Second was the fact that they had as much knowledge and experience in photographing the lights as in explaining what was happening. That means you can take pictures yourself or just let them take care of that for you. Either way, the result is photographs to take home that will stun family and friends.

We came for the lights but got so much more. Aurora Holidays is owned by a local Sami family with long ties to the land. The care you get from Tiina, owner/operator, shows the respect the family has for the land and the wildlife all around. From the geothermal heating in the cabins to the use of locally sourced foods to having gluten free and vegan options for those who want them, respect for the earth and care for the visitors comes through.

Joined by an experienced, welcoming staff, Sonja and Rayann, Tiina shaped a trip to be remembered. Feeding reindeer, dog sledding, king crab fishing (Norway is short drive away and a trip there is part of the package), and snowshoeing, topped the list for us. Having the space to get to know these three wonderful folks away from the rush and noise was a unexpected addition that made a memorable trip a priceless one. Thank you Tinna,...

We had an exceptional experience staying here in early Feb 2025! Tiina, Sonja, and the entire team go out of their way to make it a super special trip, even when the weather isn't cooperating or circumstances change. It's a small group format with them hosting a few people per week (we were part of a group of 12) so you get to make friends for life with your fellow travelers while getting a lot of personal attention from your hosts. From the moment they pick you up from the airport you feel taken care of and in good hands. Even before then, they send you useful info about clothing, etc. so you are set up for a positive time.

Witnessing the aurora and the arctic winter was so magical, we'll always remember the pastel landscape and dancing lights across the sky. The day in Norway is also a fantastic part of the trip, with gorgeous views of the Varanger Fjord, a chance for an arctic plunge (and sauna after!), delicious lunch, and photo stops along the way. There's so much more you get to enjoy throughout your stay as well that I couldn't even begin to cover!

One thing to note is that seeing the lights is dependent on having clear skies and a high KP index so there are no promises--that being said, we only had a couple nights of aurora in between clouds and it was still mind-blowing! Tiina and her team make sure you have the best shot if they are visible within driving distance which is a big help. Also the lights aren't as neon as they look in photos, just heads up.

Finally, shoutout to Sonja for being the most insightful, patient, and...