We were staying in a farmstay in Apostoli and pulled up to the only taverna in the village: a little place with some lovely stone walls, cobwebbed vases, and homely decor. Before we even entered the taverna, we were greeted at the door by Manuel, an elderly local who is fluent in English. Seeing that we were tourists, Manuel was kind enough to initiate a conversation with us, telling us his fascinating life story which has brought him all around the world for more than 30 years; he then introduced us to the villagers gathered in the tavern, and even acted as an impromptu server, setting the table and bringing us our food. Despite us being the only tourists (and Asians) for miles, we felt acknowledged and welcomed by the small Apostoli community.
Throughout our 2 night stay, we were lucky to eat at the taverna twice, both times enjoying outstanding meals. The first meal, we enjoyed some fava bean spread and tzatziki (yogurt dip possibly with spring onion or dill), both delicious and hearty. Then, we had this amazing fried squid, which was crispy but also tender, tasted fresh and deeply flavourful. Lucky for us, we were also dining at the same time as a group of Greek villagers who had just slaughtered a lamb. They shared with us some fried liver paired with a little salt and lemon juice -- it was rich, gamey, with a touch of iron but not too metallic. Somehow the meat just tasted so vital and potent (possibly because its owner had been alive only a few minutes before) and the experience of consuming it was incredibly exciting. The villagers also plied us with wine, on the house -- apparently, it was some Greek celebration of a name day, so everyone was in a giving mood! We were also given a strong gin alongside some fruits to round off our meal, a commonplace Greek practice to help digestion. Though my partner was fine, the potent drink had my head spinning, and the meal was so filling that we ended up not having dinner and just going to bed.
For our second meal, we decided on a whim to come in on a cold night. The taverna was quiet except for manuel and a friend watching the news on a ratty old TV. We ordered the kebabs -- they were amazing, perfectly grilled meat that was the right amount of salty and savoury, accompanied by some fresh tomatoes and tzatziki. It was simple, to be sure, but it tasted like home-cooked food, which was a far cry from anything you can get in a big city like Athens.
If you happen to be in Apostoli, you need to eat at this taverna -- all of the food is good. Make conversation, open yourself up to new experiences, try everything. Remember that you're eating at the centre of a tight-knit and vibrant community, and you're tasting the food that has come to define the everyday lives of dozens of villagers.
Also, don't let the...
Read moreThis small village tavern on Crete is full of charm and local character. If you’re looking to experience authentic Cretan atmosphere, this is the perfect spot. The prices are very reasonable, the food is delicious, and the owner is incredibly kind and welcoming. A great place to relax, enjoy traditional dishes, and feel the local spirit....
Read moreWhen I got there for the first time, everybody was watching tv and I wasn’t sure if I was welcomed there. Once you get to know Harula and the customers(the regulars) you are a part of the village community. I ended up eating there every night I stayed in Apostoli. Everything Harula makes tastes heavenly and homey. This place is a...
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