Camacha - Levada do Caniço — Attraction in Santa Cruz

PLEASE NOTE that this levada was closed in August 2024. As someone already said, there were signs near the levada in Camacha. However, upon learning that the hike was actually open and having decided to start the hike Caniço, we didn't know anything about those signs. Why? Because there weren't any in Caniço! Only in Camacha.

Anyway, I always wanted to complete this particular levada, and there are multiple reasons why.

First, I have already experienced 15+ levada hikes and always wondered why certain levadas were ranked so low, including this one. Second, I was intrigued by the number of dramatic comments left by some of the people, wondering whether they met reality. Finally, based on the latest comments, I knew that the hike was in a better condition than it was in the past, so I and my partner decided to give it a try.

Now, let's talk about the hike itself. If you hate thorny bushes, leftovers of small landslides, going through a rather narrow (but doable) levada bridge or under a waterfall, weird tunnels along the road, or a very steep ascent (or descent, depending on where you start), skip this leveada. As many people pointed out, it's an adventurous hike that is not cared for anymore. However, if you want to torture yourself (just a little bit) to get a different experience, you may consider it (of course, if it's not forbidden).

What I appreciated the most is the basic but very felt realization of how perceptions can differ from each other, so what seems "VERY DANGEROUS, OH MY GOD, DON'T DO THIS" for some, is "okay, it's fine" for others, and the more levadas I complete throughout the years, the less dramatic I'm starting to become myself.

In terms of the "content" of the leavada, if you do the levada in reverse order as we did, you will be proud of yourself upon completing the steep ascent to the town. It was difficult, but we made it, even in very hot weather, so make sure to have sunglasses, caps, and a good amount of water.

What I also appreciated was getting to Mini Mercado Bar Eira Salgada (just by accident) after a very difficult ascent, sharing a brisa with my wife, and being driven to Adega do Pomar (we planned to eat there) by the owner, who, as we learnt, also owns a taxy company, has a farm, basically a local entrepreneur). We were very appreciative because we didn't need to climb further to the restaurant (it's a local place and very good one!).

Regardless of what you or others think of this hike, it's a short but unique experience. It was like a rare underrated film that has a 5 out of 10 rating on Imdb, but upon watching it, you feel a little bit bruised and ashamed, but not disappointed, maybe even glad and...

Find the trail by going past the church at the top of the main square, diagonally opposite where the bus drops you (route 129 from Funchal), and down a small road on the corner turning right. It's all downhill, past houses until you come to a bar/cafe on the left. Keep going and after 50 metres there is a track veering off to the left, this becomes a track composed of small steps (very, very slippery when wet). Keep going past small houses, some in disrepair. You'll eventually get to a sign which says the trail is closed. This seems to be due to the levada itself being repaired and workmen heaving bags of cement etc. Keep going steeply down all the time until you reach the actual levada. It's a steep decent and you need good footing to avoid falling, sometimes wondering if you'll ever reach the end! Eventually you get to the levada running across your path I took a right turn, don't know where the left goes, but you follow the flow of the water. There are good views but the trail is very narrow and runs along almost sheer hillside at times. If it's wet I would consider this a hazardous route, especially if you're not good with heights. You need to watch where you are stepping so you can easily miss the view. Definitely not for children or anyone unsteady on their feet. You eventually arrive at a small tunnel which is the end of the walk. Then it's a trek through Madeiran suburbia to find a bus route to take you elsewhere. As mentioned, there is a sign saying the trail is closed so you need to judge for yourself if you want to continue. But, it seems to be to avoid disturbing the maintenance teams at work. If you decide against continuing, it is a very steep ascent back to the beginning. I certainly wouldn't do this walk if the ground is wet, there is no room for...

We had a string of days when weather did not permit walking north on the island. We chose this route in the south of Madeira in the absence of any better hikes. The trail is borderline dangerous at best and if it is either raining or recently so not worth the risk. In many parts of the trail you will struggle through blackberries and other vegetation overspreading the travel path. Trail markings and reassurances are scarce to non-existent. We did find some of the other reviews to be confusing. Traveling from Camache south we found no climb at the end as some describe. At one point after traveling on a side hill location for over one hour you encounter a holding pool for the water draining the levata and intersection with a paved road and that is the end of the walk. Others describe an eleven kilometer distance. We measured the travel to be about 3-31/2 kilometers from Camacha to Moinhos. I’m summary there are many, better options for an enjoyable...