We visited on a Friday in the late afternoon in Dec 2024. We had pre-purchased tickets for the tram tour online but it did say to arrive early because of parking. We were running a little late from our airboat ride at Gator Park. My wife and kids got out of the van and walked in (they still check for NPS pass if walking in). There were many cars parked outside on the highway as we turned in. We were in a one car in, one car out situation for the actual parking lot. There were 8-10 cars in front of me but luckily I made it in with a couple mins to spare. I was able to take a few pics and run to the bathroom. My wife and kids were able to check us in and get the NPS Cancellation stamps.
The visitor center was much smaller than I was expecting. Not much bigger than the Royal Palms Visitor Center. I didn't get much time to explore as we had to get "in line" for the tram tour. Hint, there is no line. It was a large mob. haha. There were many folks who were walking or biking the loop trail all the way down to the observation tower.
If we had more time we would've totally biked but because we were on a tight schedule we figured taking the tram tour was the most efficient use of our time. It was a really relaxing ride with amazing sights and totally worth the cost. We took the last tour at 4PM meaning the Visitor Center would be closed when we returned but it also meant we got to see the sun setting on our tour which was beautiful and most people were leaving the park. See my tram tour review for more details about the tram tour. Tip, buy your tram tickets early as when we were a month or so out. They removed the online purchase options for the winter holiday dates.
The observation tower was amazing too during sunset. It was very similar to the observation tower at Kiwohi (formerly Clingmans Dome in Great Smoky Mountain NP). The difference here is altitude. We could see so far and I think the most interesting thing was seeing the limestone formations under the clear water from the top. If you do the tram tour, try to "run" and get to the tower first so you can get all your pictures without a million people in them and then slowly make your way back.
The ride back was much less eventful than the way there as it's much taller growth with trees than the open fields on the ride down. We did see a lot of wildlife on the entire trip and our driver and tour guide were an amazing duo with tons of info and jokes. We saw many alligators.
We would definitely visit this Everglades NP site again as we rushed through everything so fast. I would grab bikes the next time and take our time.
My youngest did lose his flip flop off the tram ride and we were all the way in the back so we couldn't ask them to stop. We did slow down by some bikers at one point and we asked if they could pick it up and take it back to the Visitor Center. When we got back we found his missing flip flop tucked into a corner by the tram stop. THANK YOU KIND STANGER! My son would not stop talking about his missing flip flop for the majority of the tram tour after he lost it.
We also had to come back the next morning, as we were driving from Doral through 41 to Naples and Ft. Myers, to get our picture with the NPS sign. There was a HUGE line that backed up onto the highway. Luckily there is a little spot to pull in right by the sign so I drove into there took and pictures and...
Read moreIt took some time to accept that a visit to the Everglades is not the same as visiting, say, Yellowstone. It is not really possible to make a circuit of the whole park and pop in and out of different sites. Essentially, there are about 3 areas for a visitor to explore: Shark Valley, Flamingo, and the 10,000 Islands area on the far west end of the park. If technically possible, I don't think it is very practical to visit more than one of these in a day, since you will have to backtrack completely out of the park to proceed on to one of the other areas. Flamingo in particular does not connect directly to any other area of the park (Shark Valley or 10,000 Islands).
From Miami, it is easiest to visit Shark Valley. The drive is about an hour each way. The path towards Flamingo was also possible, and it looked a bit more natural and "rugged." However, the hiking trails en route were reportedly short (like 45 minutes or less each), and black vultures may wreck your car in those parking lots. Thus, we chose the path of least resistance and went to Shark Valley. I was a bit skeptical, because the Shark Valley area sounded perhaps a bit too touristy, with most visitors taking a tram tour. Otherwise, you can rent bikes or walk the same 15 mile road the tram takes. Again, we chose the path of least resistance and booked the tram tour.
It wound up being a great tour! Our driver, Taylor, and guide, Ricky, were both really good at conveying info and making sure we got great views of all the animals. Other tour participants were duly reverent of the wildlife and equally invested in what we were seeing. It did not feel like being at Disney at all.
Though there are mostly alligators in the park, there are 3 crocodiles reportedly in the Shark Valley area. We were lucky enough to see two of the three during our tour. In addition to the countless alligators, there was also good birdwatching opportunity.
There are toilets at the visitor center, though they don't flush (more like latrines). The rest of the facilities are what you'd expect, with toilet paper, sinks, and paper towels. There were port-a-potties at the lookout tower halfway through the tram tour. No handwashing stations or hand sanitizer. It looked like there were also more permanent facilities at the lookout tower, but I am not sure if they were actually open.
After the 2-hour tram tour, my husband and I did walk some of the trail beside the water on foot, which was nice for seeing some of the same wildlife at a bit of a slower pace. The path is completely unshaded, so take heed. There are some shorter trails that offshoot along the way, such as the Bobcat Boardwalk right by the visitors center, and there is a bit more cover there. We tried to do the Otter Cave Hammock Trail as well, but it was a bit flooded from recent rains.
We booked our tram tour weeks in advance, since I heard it could sell out. I am glad we did, because the tram did look pretty full to me! We arrived at the park a bit after 10am on a Thursday, and there was no line of cars or parking issues. The crowds were still reasonable when we left around 2pm, so maybe visiting on a Thursday was really helpful, in that respect. The day also began overcast, with threats of rain that never came, so that probably helped keep the crowds...
Read moreMy visit to Shark Valley in the Everglades was a tale of highs and lows. This place is undeniably popular, attracting hundreds upon hundreds of visitors—so much so that the parking lot was completely jam-packed. Like many others, I had to park along the street outside the entrance, ironically in an area marked "no parking." The sheer volume of visitors set the tone for what turned out to be an interesting but occasionally frustrating day.
The entrance fee of $20, valid for an entire week, struck me as fair. Upon entering, I was greeted by a delightful surprise—a captivating presentation on turtles led by one of the park's rangers. This was easily one of the highlights of my visit. The ranger's enthusiasm and ability to engage the crowd were truly commendable, leaving me eager to explore more of what the park had to offer.
Buoyed by the turtle show, I decided to opt for a guided tour, anticipating a similarly engaging experience. Unfortunately, this is where the day took a turn. The earliest available tour wasn’t until 4 PM, despite it being before noon. Adding to the disappointment, the lady at the counter was curt and unhelpful, her demeanor doing little to alleviate the growing frustrations of the bustling crowd.
Undeterred, I turned my attention to renting a bike, only to encounter yet another roadblock. Lisa, the attendant at the bike rental counter, was incredibly rude. She brusquely informed me there were no bikes available and seemed unwilling to provide any meaningful assistance. When I inquired further—asking for an estimate of when a bike might be available or how long the waitlist was—her responses were dismissive at best. Learning that there were 48 people ahead of me and that some had waited hours for their turn left me feeling disheartened.
With no bike or tour available, I set out on foot to explore the trail. While the trail itself was hot and lacking in shaded rest spots, the abundance of wildlife offered some redemption. Alligators basked lazily by the roadside, often accompanied by their young, and the birdlife added a touch of wonder to the otherwise monotonous stretch. Despite these encounters, the experience began to wear thin, and after about a mile, I turned back feeling underwhelmed.
Returning to the visitor center, I caught another ranger-led show—this time about the park's history. Once again, the ranger delivered a stellar presentation, showcasing the expertise and dedication of the park's staff. It's clear that the rangers are the heart and soul of Shark Valley, elevating the visitor experience with their passion and knowledge.
Before leaving, I browsed the gift shop, which was well-stocked with interesting books and souvenirs, providing a pleasant end to my visit.
However, the overall experience was marred by the park's inability to meet the overwhelming demand. With the revenue this place clearly generates, it would greatly benefit from expanded parking, additional bikes, more frequent tram tours, and a better-trained customer service staff. As it stands, Shark Valley offers glimpses of greatness but struggles to deliver a consistently...
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