Banzai Pipeline — Attraction in Hawaii

When I was 17,18&19 or gang Eddie, Jeff, Robert,John,Scott and myself Brian lived on the north shore so many good times and we lived on and past humans. Edge. We always said or prayers and thanked the ocean Goddess with total respect and honor never taking her for granted knowing she could and would take us down and out on any given day. She grated us many positive memory makers that no one will ever experence,⁰ see or feel every time we went out and was present was a gift, and unique and beautiful alllowing us the grace of the breath of life and the to joy of living many scarred and spiritual experiences that is carved in my soul. She granted us gifts of total bliss and fear that was unexplainable the locals know of these unsaid words. First let's start by giving total respect to those locals and their love of the Ocean Goddess and being white allowed us access to her world she was always undescribably beautiful she allowed us to embrace her scared world at different levels her energy was at the highest ,words can't describe the holiness that encompasses your being. The gang shared so many amazing moments we looked after each other as brothers from another mother one time ..it was summer of 79 and the north shore was flat. We pretty much buggie boarded & body surfed Ehukai___ right of pipeline the waves were narley massive violent closers. That showed no mercy ..but also gave us times of total fulfillment.This summer day in 79 the north shore was flat and the gang was playing tackle football on the shore beautiful day slight breeze she was glusinising glossy and at the perfect temperature. So I go out my brother Dale was running with. Us that day.. so I'm out no one else in the water.. unbenonounsed to us a volcano went off somewhere in this vast world of the ocean Goddess. I remember looking behind me and seeing a wall of white wash so massive took a breath and sank to the bottom trying to walking holding a rock holding my breath I know it was over 2 min probably closer to 3. I came up first looked at my brothers seeing that they had an eye on. Me they. Did a were pointing towards the next wall of white wash that was going to crush down on me, I took a breath and was on my way back to the ocean floor to walk under 2-3 min came up I was totally encompsed in ahh and knew I was in deep kaka I remember having a second to get a breath, looking at the gang and I still remember my brother's face they were laughing their asses off pointing out at these freak sets that came from the heavens I. Had lost my fin, board after the first freak wave hit me anyway I get sent down to the bottom again for 2-3 min now I'm in trouble spinning twisting around upside down backwards I may have been inches from the top She wasn't letting me up and had me in the palm of her lioving living hand. I was totally at her mercy and powerless in every means. What happened next was a blessed miracle.one I never saw a life guard at Ehukai only at hanama bay ..So I'm like floating like a bubble in this enormous white wash unconscious to the. Universce and a Hawaiian local didn't get or he give his name got a hold of me and draged me to show.. I remember coming to sitting on the beach looking out and seeing the most beautiful glassy l10 foot lefts imaginable and went back out ..so I fly over a couple amazing. Rainbow mist lips sitting. In a sweet zone and this. Cool Hawaiian come paddling up to me and I here this voice saying "hea brooder you da one I just save like 10 minutes ago' I smile, looking at him , smiling at me and yea brother but the kin is to good. .he laughs and paddles away. One day in my life at Ehukai. Thank you most scacred Ocean Goddess for sparring my human life this day. I. Love and thank you with all of my being....

We took the long way to the pipeline and by the time we arrived the wind and RIP Currents were flagged by lifeguards with warning ⚠ flags. I decided to check it out myself before getting into any kind of gear, glad I did the wind I wasn't as concerned about but dang those rip currents were STRONG, only VERY strong athletes or Anyone experienced with the location and had riden on or in knowing where the breakers combined with the conditions of this particular stretch of water should go in. Remember that anyone tourist or otherwise without the knowledge, that the lifeguards aren't just putting up the warning flags 🚩🚩🚩🚩🚩🚩🚩 for their Health it's for Our Safety and Health. Listen, Look, Learn have always been my "Motos" when doing open ocean water sports and I'm experienced but not at the Pipeline. Next time I will DEFINITELY plan ahead watching the weather, as well as the specific area of the Bonzai Pipeline,...

Great place for us all to congregate with a friends and guzzle lots of cold ones from the can so that you can hoot and holler and listen to some loud stomping stuff on one of them loud JBL speakers on of us always brings! Bring long some pizzas!Oh Yeeyah! Bring the dogs an have um fetch the tennis ball and frisbee, for most DEFINITELY sure! Have us all one of them casting contest with the fishing poles too. See if we can cast all the way out to them thats on them surf bords where they sit and see how long they can stand on those waves. This here beach just aint for them Hawiaans but for ALL of us Americans! SO I think yall need to rememeber that before yall get your tight unisex knickers...