Honoli'i Beach Park — Attraction in Hawaii

It was cranking today! Be wise, be careful and if your ready, go for it! It'll either humble you or you'll have some rip roaring fun surfing!! Aloha! Caution: big rains and river running be extra safe as water can contaminate!! I was out one big stormy doay with river running! To get out was brutal and once I got out Not was it a murky scene!! Any way, hooked into a big 10 foot wave at the point, vertical drop my 5'6" thruster hanging on the lip finally releasing to a drop I barely hung into!! Gathered myself thinking this baby is barreling as fast as I'm going down so mind saying slight turn inside so I could just get barreled while still going down the face! It was my only chance to make this brown color barrel!! I just made it and got into the belly of this wave when something came over with the lip and smashed into my chest and left arm just like a truck hit me!! Over the falls, leash, like a thread, just snapped and here I was, that little silence when you think "oh boy, here we go", then the heavy turbulence starts!! To the ocean floor, rolling, getting held down, trying to just not panic but on the verge cause it feels like a long time! Whew, it let me up! Right on, elation!!! Anyway, here's the kicker, I shake my eyes open and a snout whacks me above my right ear like a short hard jab! I then kinda panicked but finally seeing I was pummeled by a 300 lb. Boar that was dead and floating in the break!! That's my adventure to share so please just be focused on conditions and be safe!! Surfing is the ultimate but you can pay the ultimate price!! Aloha! Another story about Bayfront, the singing bridge break!! Before, this awesome long left broke quite often when a big North swells would squeeze in! 12 to 20 foot sets with walls all the way to canoe landing!! Any way, one big day and I lucked into a big 15 foot wall! Being a goofy foot, I set my turn high to start the 0 to 100 mile per hour carve station when from the top I looked over the whole ocean floor and there must have been 200 hammerhead sharks just in the wave, around the wave, in my way, but just like we all were in it for a good time!! As I kicked out, You better believe I paddled in! Lol! Such fun! Aloha! Here's another blast!! Kalapana, left point!! Man, if you got to have the privilege of surfing this break, you know what it is! Magical deep blue spiritual waves that just pound!! One day, epic 20 foot rollers coming in!! The Hawaiians just killing it with their knowledge!! About 50 people out and we were very happy butyet very respectful! You gotta see to believe! Anyway, I was in the lineup and everyone was talking story when a small lump about a mile out caught my eye!! Without hesitation, I started windmilling it to the horizon when about 100 yards away from everybody I just yelled "SETS"! I was 200 yards farthest out and the 1st of a 3 wave set started feathering! It was 25 foot set and I barely made it over! The others, throwing boards! Next one, 30 foot! Barely scratched over, the last one, the cleanup, lined right across kaimu and the point! I said, "oh SH#T!! I said, here we go and just barely got over while looking back at the scene! WOW! Boards in the reef, guys screaming help but the funniest thing was about 20 surfers had their trunks just blown off their behinds exposing their birthday suits!! Kinda funny and a fitting end to this epic point break!! Just wanted to share!!! Stay tuned, Pohoiki, drains, shacks, bowls, secrets and hurricane Is a on the Kona coast!!...

The beach on the river side comes and goes, and after storms, the water is brown and unpleasant. The park itself was created by Pakalove, a grassroots community effort - they cleaned it up, started landscaping, and began the movement to preserve the area and eventually the state was persuaded.

It's a popular surf spot, with beginners inside and in the river mouth. Since the 2018 Puna eruption (and the lava destruction of the once great surf of Kalapana in the 1980s) destroyed multiple surf spots, it is also one of the few remaining places on the East Side, and it has become more crowded. But still it has a family friendly vibe, though once an ambulance had to haul out a haole who for some reason had pushed a local 12 year old girl. For beginners and tourists ask the locals where to go and how to behave - there is a poster of proper surf manners on the wall of the building by the showers. Mostly, don't drop in front of someone...

One of my favorite hidden gems on the island. This beach has a rugged, untamed feel that I absolutely love. There’s usually a lifeguard on duty, which makes it feel safer without taking away from the wild beauty. The shoreline is scattered with smooth pebbles and driftwood, and if you know where to look, there’s a treasure trove of sea glass waiting to be found. Greens, ambers, soft whites… sometimes even a rare cobalt. I’ve spent hours just combing through the stones like a kid again.

There’s something about this place that invites you to slow down. The signs nailed to the trees say as much… reminders that keiki play here, surfers ride here, and the land itself deserves your respect. It’s not a tourist trap. It’s not polished. It’s better.

Bring water shoes if you’re sensitive to rocks, and take only memories (not all the glass, please). Leave the rest for the...