Casa Maria Luigia — Hotel in Modena

This is one of the best run resort hotels we have ever stayed in. You can feel the family warmth the very the minute you walk in the door. We arrived late and they brought us dinner in the “midnight snack kitchen” which was one of the best meals we had in Modena. You can order Massimo’s famous 5 stages of Parmesan ala carte… and it is amazing. They give you a very generous portion. We also got the Culatello (to die for) and tagliatelle with bolognese (amazing). The midnight snack kitchen is such a cool concept. It’s an open kitchen you can “raid” anytime with snacks, waters, tea. Absolutely loved this and it was so unique to anything we have ever seen. Made you really feel at home. ||||The service at the resort was amazing. It was excellent service but also very non invasive. At times, we wondered if there was anyone else there…. But not in a bad way. It felt like you are alone sometimes at someone’s amazing home, fully stocked with snacks, drinks and anything you want. ||||The breakfast is otherworldly. I don’t know how I will ever eat a breakfast anywhere in the world that will compare to the breakfast at Casa Maria Luigia. It is a multi-course flow of the breakfast of my dreams. First, they bring you the best quiche in the world in two flavors with some Parmesan, roasted fruit and veg. Then, homemade sausage with egg (foam?) on an almond (cookie?) with balsamic. Then they finish with “sweets” - focaccia in two flavors, a cinnamon bun and one of the best chocolate chip cookies I’ve had in my life. IT WAS AMAZING. Best breakfast I have ever had. Hands down. Case closed. ||||There are two restaurants on property - Francescana and Al Gatto Verde. We ate at Francescana. It was an amazing experience but overall honestly a teeny bit disappointing. Stand out dishes for us were the Parmesan 5 ways, the oops I dropped the lemon Tarte and the Asian pasta. The wine paring felt a little sloppy - multiple dishes were missing a new wine, which I thought was odd for a Michelin restaurant. The “show” was fun. The manager Erika is SO lovely and one of the best hotel/restaurant managers that we’ve encountered. She is a rock star. She went over and above to make everyone feel welcome and her overview of the food during the dinner was stellar. ||||Massimo’s family is in every aspect of the resort. His daughter, Alexa, was at breakfast every day welcoming guests, waiting tables and working very hard to make sure everyone was fed and having a good start to the day. Her cousin, Quinn, was there for the summer and waiting tables at breakfast. He was so friendly and helpful. We enjoyed chatting with him every day. Massimo’s wife, Lara, walks around - usually breezing by with flowers - greeting guests and chatting. Everyone is SO welcoming. ||||The resort is beautifully decorated. The upholstery and wallpaper is all Gucci and GORGEOUS. Even the room keys and coasters are designed by Gucci. The attention to detail is incredible. We heard that Lara does the decoration and wow it is absolutely stunning. ||||There is a feature on property called the “Playground” which is just so cool. It is a large space with exotic cars, art and quirky details. The gym is also located in the Playground and is set up very well for vacation workouts (which you need after all of the delicious food). ||||We have already booked a return visit in the 3 BR villa with friends in May and we cannot wait to return. There is something about Modena overall that we just love - the size of the city, the lack of crowds, the food - and now Casa Maria Luigia also has a hold on us. Until May, I will be dreaming about...

This review is about DINNER (we didn't stay at the hotel). Well, a lot to be said, only gave 4 stars because I found the service lacking for the price point and the experience a bit "all over the place". Would've loved a different journey and more care in the pampering, but I guess thats what you get when there's so many ppl. First, the food is amazing of course. It's the best Massimo Bottura's dishes (the ones that made him famous and the best sellers in Osteria Francescana). So you get a 3-Michelin star menu in a different setting (amazing one) away from the crowds at Francescana (good luck getting a reservation!). Casa María Luigia was the same price but easier to get a seat, and I think, a better space. The wine pairing is expensive but worth it. Get it. If you're splurging already, go with it, also wine by the glass is waaay more expensive and a bottle for the different dishes would be lacking. Also the whole experience is over 3 hours, so... Having said that, we booked and got there on time. No one greeted us or even directed us to the place the dinner was, we kinda infered from where all the tourists were standing. And at 7 sharp they formed a queue and started checking names on a list (felt awkward since it's already paid and couldn't find my name at first, it's like going to an event and not being on the list). Also, why? There were like 30 minutes when they could've greeted and checked who you were. That felt awfully impersonal. At last you go in and get seated randomly in communal tables with 7-8 other people. That was good because we got to know other interesting couples. But the salon is cold and a bit tight for so many ppl, my guess is they crowd it as much as they can. The concept is good though, they maitre d' explains every 3 dishes and you can go check out the open kitchen (no actual cooking is happening but they do have some mounting and impressive pieces of equipment). Wine is served and explained at the table. Damian hirst art decorates the walls. So, why 4 stars? They maitre suggested we left a tip (paid online 2 months in advance, but got the wine tasting last minute so I paid for that there, everyone else just left with no bill and there were no tips requests. Of course I did not leave anything, hard to believe Mr Bottura does not pay his staff very well). A tour on the property would've been nice. We had to go out between courses with no explanation or invitation. The welcoming was terrible. Maybe a little water at least? Service was slooooow... It was supposed to be 3 hours, it was close to 4. Around 20 minutes between some courses.

In summary: great experience and food and wine. Go go go, but be aware that it is not cheap and the service was lacking ($550 per person should get a more personalized and kind experience, no?). The property is beautiful and full of art, gardens and Massimo's touch. Amazing. Would've loved to stay there for one night (maybe next time, it's around $3500). Would hope that when we get back -just loved Modena- they do improve these little things. Maybe trying the other 2 new spots on the property (that the staff also did not mention or...

Massimo and Lara had a vision to provide their guests with the most exquisite and exciting as well as relaxing and comfortable home away from home and they succeeded splendidly!!! Casa Maria Luigia equals PERFECTION in every way!

We had -- by far -- our best hotel experience EVER (and we have stayed in many upscale places all over the world). CML is set up like a true country home and you are invited to the party!

It is easy to immediately fall in love with the stylish but cozy living room, the music room featuring Massimo's collection of hundreds of jazz records (my husband drooled over the record player and the amazing sound system), the comfy parlor to serve ourselves after-dinner drinks, and the beautiful kitchen stocked with the most delicious snacks and drinks one can possibly imagine. We had so much fun dropping by the fridge to get some cheese with Massimo's honey or a carrot salad with a tahini vinaigrette and a bottle of Prosecco to wash it all down! (Snack selections change daily and are always something to look forward to.)

The guest rooms are gorgeous, spacious, and offer every comfort one could possibly want. Amazing original art from Massimo's private collection can be found all over the property which makes it worthwhile to explore every corner of CML.

CML's staff was absolutely lovely and (despite the lack of a large reception desk) always present and ready to help in every way possible.

Breakfast is a must since it is an unbelievably delightful feast based on what Massimo's grandmother cooked for him on Christmas morning. We are not sure how we are going to survive without the gnocco fritto with mortadella or the cotechino with zabaione. The grapefruit jam is very delicious as well. Many, many thanks to Eduardo who went above and beyond to make the start of our days extra special and provided so many wonderful insights into the Emilia-Romagna culture! His lovely wife Diana runs the tours of Massimo's acetaia next door (also highly recommended).

Of course, dinner at Francescana at Maria Luigia was an absolute dream (see separate review).

Staying for several nights allowed us to truly enjoy all the comfort and warmth CML has to offer. We will definitely return in the not-too-distant future to again enjoy its amazing amenities and -- even more importantly -- all the wonderful staff who truly made us feel at home. Molte...