We're traveling with another couple and were searching for an onsen but could not come to an agreement. Then we tumbled upon Nishiyama Keiunkan and so glad we're able to visit this historic gem, Guinness World Record's longest standing inn found in 705 A.D. Reservation is made through japanican and it's legitimate. Getting here in and of itself is a journey as we had to have the executive staff at Hilton Shinjuku call to confirm and help us with direction on how to get there by train (staff at Keiunkan speaks mainly Japanese). If you time yourself well (leave at least 1 hr from the time of arrival at the last train station), you will be able to catch the complimentary once a day shuttle to the hotel. It departs around 1 o'clock. ||||We started early but not too early as we're able to catch breakfast before the Hilton shuttle bus took us to the JR Shinjuku station departing for JR Kofu. We then transferred to the last station, JR Minobu. We still had about 1 hour or so so we head it directly across the station to a soba noodle shop have some tasty soba and ramen. There's a cheap noodle stand inside the small station but it since it does not have air condition, it's better to go across the street and be able to sit down and relax while waiting for the shuttle bus to come. || ||After winding through the beautiful Akaishi Mountains range (the rocking of the shuttle bus winding through the narrow alleys lying at the foot of the mountains put us to sleep btw after about 15 min into it) for about 1 hr, we arrived and were greeted by a welcoming and attentive staff who had already prepared our slippers to change into. It seems that as the inn has limited number of room, staff are well prepared in anticipation of guests coming to this remote but legendary inn. We're brought to the main "lobby" area where we're served with fresh towels and refreshing drinks while the staff came to us to check us in (the lobby thought is in dust pink and it appears like you're stepping back into history-it could use an upgrade since the last time it was done so was about 20 years ago). After we had a peak at view of the ravines running along the inn, and no "hordes" of tourists and no tour bus around us, we knew it would be a perfect relaxing two days. ||||Each family was assigned a staff who would take us to our room with our name written on the front door and go over everything with us, from the belt of our yukata to how it would fit each of us to our meals to the different hot springs, hours the separate bath would change to men v. women, etc.) Our room is quite spacious for 2 adults and 2 teenagers with a separate sitting area where we would lie, lounge, read and relax amidst the soothing sound of the river below. We unpacked and couldn't wait to head to the onsen. ||||There're 6 different different hot springs, 2 indoors and 4 outdoors. The 2 indoor and 2 out door public baths will switch at around 7 or 8 p.m. to be come men and the other women and then switch back at 7 or 8 a.m. For the 2 private baths, reservation must be made upon checking in and the staff will make sure that each guest will have access to the private baths. We love the fact that the onsens are opened 24 hr and it's never crowded. ||||After we freshened up, we were so ready for dinner. Though we had some expectations about the Mountain Kaiseki meals, we did not expect that every dinner and breakfast, a menu is prepared and printed for each guest with their name on it. Every dinner and breakfast, staff is fully prepared and our table is always ready once we arrive. Every day, we would look forward to our sumptuous meals with no less than 20 different dishes and served to perfection. Most guests seem to stay one night (arrive for dinner and leave after breakfast) and arrive by car so perhaps that's why there's no Kaiseki lunch. We're lucky enough to stay here 2 nights and had made to order lunch brought to our room instead. ||||After breakfast, we headed to the hanging bridge (turn off by the post office) while our kids headed off to the ravines below where they played with water and skipped rocks. We did a small walk around the area and just absorbed in the tranquility of this beautiful place and can't imagine how magnificent it is in the fall and winter. After lunch, we played mahjong (awesome electric mahjong table in the resting room) and then played karaoke (the karoke room could be better well kept as we see cigarette butts and trays not cleaned), then headed to dinner and back to the onsen again. It was one of the most relaxing time of our very busy and hectic life. ||||Alas, all good things must come to an end. We thank the wonderful staff who maintain this historic inn and took great care of their guests and the awesome chefs who make those sumptuous Kaiseki meals. We would love to come back one day during the fall or winter and would recommend this not to be missed gem wholeheartedly to our friends and family. ||||Just a note that the inn's gift shop has some great collection of noodles and snacks not found else where (including those awesome chopsticks where we could not find in Kyoto or other chopstick shop so was so glad we got it from here). The gift shops by the train station also has some good selection of snacks, noodles, etc. local to...
Read moreWe're traveling with another couple and were searching for an onsen but could not come to an agreement. Then we tumbled upon Nishiyama Keiunkan and so glad we're able to visit this historic gem, Guinness World Record's longest standing inn found in 705 A.D. Reservation is made through japanican and it's legitimate. Getting here in and of itself is a journey as we had to have the executive staff at Hilton Shinjuku call to confirm and help us with direction on how to get there by train (staff at Keiunkan speaks mainly Japanese). If you time yourself well (leave at least 1 hr from the time of arrival at the last train station), you will be able to catch the complimentary once a day shuttle to the hotel. It departs around 1 o'clock. ||||We started early but not too early as we're able to catch breakfast before the Hilton shuttle bus took us to the JR Shinjuku station departing for JR Kofu. We then transferred to the last station, JR Minobu. We still had about 1 hour or so so we head it directly across the station to a soba noodle shop have some tasty soba and ramen. There's a cheap noodle stand inside the small station but it since it does not have air condition, it's better to go across the street and be able to sit down and relax while waiting for the shuttle bus to come. || ||After winding through the beautiful Akaishi Mountains range (the rocking of the shuttle bus winding through the narrow alleys lying at the foot of the mountains put us to sleep btw after about 15 min into it) for about 1 hr, we arrived and were greeted by a welcoming and attentive staff who had already prepared our slippers to change into. It seems that as the inn has limited number of room, staff are well prepared in anticipation of guests coming to this remote but legendary inn. We're brought to the main "lobby" area where we're served with fresh towels and refreshing drinks while the staff came to us to check us in (the lobby thought is in dust pink and it appears like you're stepping back into history-it could use an upgrade since the last time it was done so was about 20 years ago). After we had a peak at view of the ravines running along the inn, and no "hordes" of tourists and no tour bus around us, we knew it would be a perfect relaxing two days. ||||Each family was assigned a staff who would take us to our room with our name written on the front door and go over everything with us, from the belt of our yukata to how it would fit each of us to our meals to the different hot springs, hours the separate bath would change to men v. women, etc.) Our room is quite spacious for 2 adults and 2 teenagers with a separate sitting area where we would lie, lounge, read and relax amidst the soothing sound of the river below. We unpacked and couldn't wait to head to the onsen. ||||There're 6 different different hot springs, 2 indoors and 4 outdoors. The 2 indoor and 2 out door public baths will switch at around 7 or 8 p.m. to be come men and the other women and then switch back at 7 or 8 a.m. For the 2 private baths, reservation must be made upon checking in and the staff will make sure that each guest will have access to the private baths. We love the fact that the onsens are opened 24 hr and it's never crowded. ||||After we freshened up, we were so ready for dinner. Though we had some expectations about the Mountain Kaiseki meals, we did not expect that every dinner and breakfast, a menu is prepared and printed for each guest with their name on it. Every dinner and breakfast, staff is fully prepared and our table is always ready once we arrive. Every day, we would look forward to our sumptuous meals with no less than 20 different dishes and served to perfection. Most guests seem to stay one night (arrive for dinner and leave after breakfast) and arrive by car so perhaps that's why there's no Kaiseki lunch. We're lucky enough to stay here 2 nights and had made to order lunch brought to our room instead. ||||After breakfast, we headed to the hanging bridge (turn off by the post office) while our kids headed off to the ravines below where they played with water and skipped rocks. We did a small walk around the area and just absorbed in the tranquility of this beautiful place and can't imagine how magnificent it is in the fall and winter. After lunch, we played mahjong (awesome electric mahjong table in the resting room) and then played karaoke (the karoke room could be better well kept as we see cigarette butts and trays not cleaned), then headed to dinner and back to the onsen again. It was one of the most relaxing time of our very busy and hectic life. ||||Alas, all good things must come to an end. We thank the wonderful staff who maintain this historic inn and took great care of their guests and the awesome chefs who make those sumptuous Kaiseki meals. We would love to come back one day during the fall or winter and would recommend this not to be missed gem wholeheartedly to our friends and family. ||||Just a note that the inn's gift shop has some great collection of noodles and snacks not found else where (including those awesome chopsticks where we could not find in Kyoto or other chopstick shop so was so glad we got it from here). The gift shops by the train station also has some good selection of snacks, noodles, etc. local to...
Read moreNishiyama Onsen Keiunkan holds the Guinness World Record for the longest continually operating hotel in the world, and second longest running business, losing out (just barely) to a Japanese construction company.
How old, you ask? 1,320 years. No, that's not a typo.
For 1320 years, this traditional ryokan has been operating since its founding in the year 705. During those thirteen centuries(!), Keiunkan has hosted the likes of emperors, shoguns, daimyos, and all manner of Japanese noblepersons; from the highest to the lowest, the divine to the mundane, all the way down to a lowly ashigaru, such as myself, and my family, who had the privilege of staying here this week.
Situated in the stunning Hayakawa valley, this storied, four-storey hot spring retreat boasts multiple public and private, indoor and outdoor baths, on the first and fourth floors; the full ryokan experience (tatami mats, traditional futon for sleeping on the floor); traditional kaiseki dining with a la carte options; and an unrivaled aesthetic - misty mountains, lush forests, and a rushing river, all viewable from your large private suite which, in our case, included three rooms, in addition to the private restroom and ofuro.
The baths themselves are gorgeous and well-maintained. Some baths are public and gender-segregated, and flip their schedules for which gender is allowed to use them at which time, in twelve hour increments (i.e. one bath will allow men from 8am-8pm, and women from 8pm-8am; another bath will have the reverse schedule). There are also private baths that you can reserve at the front desk, for couples and families who want to enjoy the experience together. And as mentioned above, some baths are indoor, and others are open-air.
Staying here has a few caveats: first, it is very remote: if you happen to rent a car as myself and my family did, it situated a 3 1/2 away from Tokyo, which presents its own challenges since the japanese drive on the left side of the road, drive on the right side of the car, and navigating roads can be daunting and stressful (although it gets much easier, the further away you get from Tokyo). Your other option is a series of trains, and a shuttle bus (which you must reserve in advance), all clearly explained on their website, but can still be difficult to follow for the inexperienced traveler in Japan. Be prepared and informed, though, and you'll be fine.
Secondly, the interior of the building itself could use some renovation. I'm not sure how long the current structure has been standing here, but it is definitely starting to show its age. Obviously, it's not the original thirteenth century old building that stands here, although it IS the very same hot spring. There is obvious water-staining of some of the carpets throughout the building, and some of the furniture and decor have seen better days. Also, there's no way in Jigoku that this place isn't haunted.
The service, however, is phenomenal. From the very beginning, we were waved into the parking lot and greeted personally, as we were obviously expected. English is spoken by some of the staff, for those anxious about the language barrier. Our car was taken by the valet, our luggage delivered to our room, and we were given a comprehensive explanation of the baths and their schedules, dinner and breakfast times, a tour of the room, shown a map of the hotel's layout.
I know there are people out there that are going to take some of the critiques I mentioned above, and try to claim that this isn't a five-star experience. Respectfully, I disagree. While there may be a handful of detractions, the simple fact that this place has LITERALLY stood the test of time for more than a MILLENNIUM is all the counter-argument I need. Whatever your opinion may be, this is absolutely a once in a lifetime experience, and something you will remember, and talk about, for the rest of your life. And if you don't...well, then I suspect you're the kind of person I wouldn't want to be naked with in an outdoor...
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