Third Place Kumano Kodo — Hotel in Tanabe

Not knowing what 'Minhuku' means, we staggered to a place with the word 'Miunchuku' in it on the river and were ready to collapse, when we were told that Third Place was an hour's walk up the hill! The owners took pity and rang the owner (Mr Tetsu) who kindly drove down to collect us!||||The accommodation was just beautiful and our host took his time to show us around his beautiful property. We settled down, cleaned up and were soon treated to the most beautiful, thoughtful meal we had in Japan. Mr Tetsu talked us through each of the 15 or so items in front of us, as well as the plum wine and the delicious sake. We were in heaven. ||||The only minor negative was the bedding, which was not conducive to a good sleep. However, we were so tired, we managed!||||The next morning we were driven down town at 6:30am for early breakfast (and also where we collected our lunch). We wanted to leave early, because 24km in 30+ degrees was an intimidating prospect. So, we set off shortly after 7 - and my wife realised she left her sticks at our first stop - an hour away. Mr Tetsu insisted on collecting them for us and told us to start walking! After 45 minutes walking, he pulled over to us and handed back the sticks.||||We learned a little of Mr Tetsu's life through our conversations. His wife is working in New Your, whereas he 'retired' from a high-powered job in Tokyo at 50. He seems genuinely happy and was another wonderful human we met on our...

As soon as I walked up the hill, Mr. Tetsuyama was waiting for me with a smile! I knew it would be great right then. ha! I was super early, (I am a ridiculously fast hiker--I was about 3 hours too early!) but that did not stop Mr. Tetsuyama from being the most gracious, fun, wonderful host. What a sincere, interesting, totally fun person, I just adore this man! I didn't want to be a bother, so he let me in my lodging for the night, which was actually a gorgeous house that just took my breath away, I washed up and went to the local onsen. Mr. Tetsuyama insisted to drive me there , and came to get me an hour later. What a nice gesture! I was then treating to one of the best meals (and sake ;-) I've had in my life. What a treat. Mr. Tetsuyama not only delivered the food but also went into great detail describing each item, how interesting, what a great experience an insight into japanese culture. I was so relaxed and happy at Minshuku 3rd Place, it was magical. What a privilege. To sit in silence on the tatami mats and watch the sun go down over the misty mountains, I have to almost pinch myself to realize it was not a dream! Such a shame I could not stay longer. Wonderful magical place, and Mr. Fumio Tetsuyama is a gem! I could not have asked for a better experience. Do yourself a favour...

My husband and I stayed in Nonaka for 1 night at Minshuku 3rd Place which was after our second day of hiking the Kumano Kodo. The property was stunning! The owner, Mr Tetsu restored the century-old buildings himself and added his own personal touches. The result was a beautiful traditional Japanese house with exquisite art pieces and a stunning verandah which opens up to view the misty mountains below. Full disclosure: the property is up a big hill but ALONG the Kumano Kodo path. So you may be tired at the end of day 2 but that means you get an easier start to day 3 with already being on top of the hill. Many other hikers stayed in Chikatsuyu which offers more accommodation options and is right before the hill climb. However, in hindsight I'm glad I booked in Nonaka instead of the next town, Tsugizakura. Because although I had the legs to make it up to Nonaka, it might have been a stretch to keep walking another 30-45 minutes further to stay in Tsugizakura. ||||I booked through the Kumano Travel website. ||If possible, request for the "more traditional Japanese...