Oyado・The Earth — Hotel in Toba

My first visit was 2010; I just stayed three days ago and it was actually better than the last time! I travel to Japan often and stay at ryokans all over Japan as part of my business. This is one of the best contemporary ryokans in Japan, hands down. Since I also know all the relative prices, I know that it's also one of the best values for an experience of this caliber. Each room has it's own private onsen water bath, something that comes at a premium in most traditional ryokans. Many contemporary ryokans charge even more than traditional ones, but not Oyado the Earth. And the food is even better now than it was 7 years ago. The main difference was small adjustments in the ingredients that incorporated items more to the palate of westerners along with better variety. Example - in 2010, our early December meal featured four courses that included abalone. While it's seasonal, it became a bit much. This year - only one, but then there were other wonderful offerings instead. We have no idea how they managed that clear broth - but OMG - so much flavor! One of the best we've encountered of those. All the kaiseki offerings were just updated enough to not feel like we were at a traditional ryokan but still recognizable enough to give us an exquisite taste of a ryokan by the sea. The rooms are still immaculate, everything is kept up to date, fresh and contemporary. Wifi is excellent, service is great. The spa service was relaxing and luckily I was able to be accommodated on arrival on a Saturday night. I wouldn't recommend taking a chance on that though - reserve in advance for a great spa service after a hot onsen bath. My only advice--be sure to arrive at check-in time (even if you have to take the expensive cab from Toba station rather than the complementary shuttle). We arrived by train for the 4pm shuttle so didn't get to the inn until almost 5pm. Two hours wasted! But we woke up early to enjoy the private onsen view of the sunrise on the cliffs over the...

We just left here today and wish we could have stayed longer. The setting of this place overlooking the Pacific ocean os absolutely magnificent. We stayed in room 112, a maisonette suite. Other reviewers said it seem small since it is on two floors but you just open all of the shoji screens. The private outdoor onsen was amazing. I used one the public ones which overlooked the Pacific with a wide open window. The food is what yo would find at an upscale ryokan with a focus on seafood. The dinners can always be a bit challenging for western or unadventurous palettes but the experience is always treasured. They accommodated by request for no squid or octopus easily. The service and staff are all top notch, too. Friendly and attentive but not overly intrusive They have two incredible massage chairs for use, as well. I didn’t want to get up. Finally, they can do a Western breakfast which was just as extensive as the Japanese one. We have been to Japan five time and stayed at a few ryokan, but this was one of my favorites by far. It is a bit out of the way from your more popular tourist spots, but well worth it, even for a day. ...

We spent two nights at Oyado the Earth and felt relaxed and at ease the entire time.

I wouldn't hesitate to book here given the high caliber of service (in English too!), incredible food (able to adjust for vegetarian as well), and mesmerizing views.

Understand going into this stay that the rooms are going to feel a little old-school and different than the usual 5-star cookie-cutter experience. But that's part of the traditional and authentic charm. The price is unreal and unbeatable for the value. Especially when the other luxury accommodation will be the somewhat nearby Aman property which is at least double the price of Oyado the Earth.

Something that we didn't know (and wished we did) is that there is a shuttle that can take you into Toba during your stay. While relaxing in and out of your private onsen all day is really nice, it would have been lovely to know this so we could have planned a tour day as we were eager to see the Ama divers.

That being said, if you're looking for something off the beaten path, and authentic luxury, this couldn't be a better...