As a child, I visited Boracay since the 1980s when it was a virgin island. This was a time without electricity, garbage was brought out by boat and the local priest only came once a month. It’s always been a special place in my mind and heart. I brought my American husband and two children last in 2004. Even then the island was pristine, the water incredibly clear and beautiful, hotels had space between each property. Fast forward to 2023 and I was shocked and appalled to see the state of things. I never could understand former President Duterte calling it a cesspool but after my 4-day visit there I believe him.This recent experience makes me never want to ever return.
Lumot-season aside (which was NEVER a thing there all those years ago), what happened? Who allowed over-tourism and overdevelopment of this once beautiful and thriving, magical place? I am without a doubt saddened by the state of things. What used to be a place with space to walk between the trees is now lined with building upon building, malls, a fake lagoon, roads anywhere and everywhere.
When I went on a private bangka for an island hopping tour, all I wanted was to snorkel and swim in the clear blue ocean. Instead I witnessed our boat captain feed fish bread they are not used to eating or endemic to their marine diet. This was so disturbing to me.
After the snorkeling stop at crocodile island, we were led to a place called Crystal Cove. Entry fee is 300 pesos per person. Not worth it in my opinion. While I see the appeal of making this island a “cave stop” it was appalling to see hundreds of tourists crammed into one cave standing on rocks, sitting on rock walls, touching the walls and taking instagram selfies. I was so upset seeing this. Not one tour guide said do not touch the walls or sit on the wall or stand on the rocks. What do you think happens over time as the weight of these tourists keep going onto these rock formations? I saw this happen with not one but two caves. I don’t even want to know what is happening with the coral reefs around the island at this point. It would only depress me. If you are looking for an instagram island destination, then Crystal Cove is the place for you. They have fake everything - Greek ruins, sculptures emulating famous areas in the world. I don't understand why they are not promoting the actual nature and beach around it. Swimming is not allowed on the shores of this island. So weird.
In contrast when I have visited islands like Hawaii or the US Virgin Islands or the the British Virgin islands as examples, guides will only let tourists swim in the periphery of the caves to “view them” but certainly never to touch, sit or stand on anything. There are rock formations in Virgin Gorda that tourists can take pictures inside of, but never ever touch or put weight on the rocks. We were required to swim in, they cannot even bring the boats close enough to these structures. That's how much they preserve the integrity of these rocks and caves.
As we were riding back I asked if there were ANY local untouched areas in the ocean or beaches where we could just swim and enjoy the ocean naturally. I was told no, the tour guides have to follow a “program” for these boat tours and locals are not allowed to use or swim in the beaches. They said Bulabog used to be the locals beach but then they relocated the boat tours there. Then a beach next to it was designated a locals beach but then it was given away to another development. This was confirmed by several e-trike drivers, that yes, they have to go to off-island to enjoy the beaches. Boracay is off limits to them.
Needless to say not only was this pretty disturbing, as a tourist Boracay needs some real environmental help. Whether it's crystal cove or the actual island and its surroundings, this place is not the beautiful island...
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