La Côte Saint Jacques & Spa — Restaurant in Sens

My wife and I and friends spent a memorable weekend at La Cote Saint Jacques ("LCSJ") in Joigny in May. This was our fourth visit to La Cote Saint Jacques over a four decade period. We had a wonderful time at this extraordinary venue. La Cote Saint Jacques has continued to evolve and reach new heights during its long and illustrious history. There is no better "base” from which to enjoy the marvelous wines and charming village of Chablis and the villages of northern Burgundy.

We note that although Michelin has awarded two stars to LCSJ, in our judgment, LCSJ has always been a three star experience, offering far warmer hospitality and more refined cuisine than we have experienced at three Michelin star establishments in Burgundy and France. In fact, we have had disappointing experiences at three star restaurants both with respect to the food and service, venues which pale in comparison to the service, hospitality and exquisite cuisine of LCSJ.

From the moment of arrival, guests are greeted warmly by the Lorain family and its long time staff, managed by Marine Lorain. Ms. Lorain is deeply committed to maintaining the family's deep traditions of hospitality (extending over three generations and entering a fourth generation). As in past years, the service throughout our visit was impeccable, from the housekeeping to the spa with its soothing massage therapy.

Since our last visit, the rooms at this lovely "country inn" have been fully renovated. The accommodations are spacious; the bathrooms are generously proportioned. Many rooms have views of the serene Yonne River. The hotel is situated on the banks of the river; its grounds are beautifully landscaped and feature spectacular cast iron sculptures from Sylvain Subervie which are illuminated at night.

The cuisine at LCSJ is extraordinary, a reflection of the culinary wizardry of Jean-Michel Lorain, now joined in the kitchen by his talented nephew, Alexandre Bondoux. In past years, the cuisine at LCSJ was "classical"; it has evolved and reached new heights, brilliantly marrying classical French techniques with modern, international influences. The cuisine is astonishingly refined and delicious. For "foodies", LCSJ also offers instructive cooking classes - which we have enjoyed on previous visits.

Our dinners at LCSJ had many highlights, from the ethereal oyster terrine to the Flottante with Caviar, richly textured foie gras de canard, delicate blanquette de hommard (lobster) and outstanding Ris de Veau (with subtle ginger accents) and Agneau de laitie des Pyrenees, a spring time lamb lovers delight. However, the "piece de resistance" of our weekend was a birthday surprise for my wife - a magnificent Poulet de Bresse cooked in a cocotte sealed with pastry dough and served with a melange of baby vegetables cooked with the famous Bresse bird.The Poulet de Bresse in cocotte, a traditional technique for this renowned bird, was the ingenuous idea of Matthias Lermercier, the restaurant's adroit and acutely attentive manager and Stephen Guyard, the Maitre d' who was our culinary guide throughout the weekend. Mr. Guyard is one of the most knowledgeable, skilled and gracious restaurant professionals we have ever encountered in France. For a birthday dessert, Mr. Guyard presented a stunningly delicious Mille Feuille with the lightest of creme filling, a fitting end to this incredible evening, a perfect interplay of opulence and elegance.

Together, Matthias and Stephen worked assiduously to ensure that this was a special celebratory weekend for my wife and helped us to navigate through the many spectacular dishes coming from the LCSJ kitchen. With the added pleasures of the outstanding LCSJ wine cellar, our dinners ranked among the finest we have had globally - a three Michelin star experience. The highly professional service, led by Stephen and Matthias, was unforgettable, remarkably warm and gracious and with abundant good humor..

We thank the Lorain family for its extraordinary hospitality; we look forward to returning to this...

it was my husband’s birthday and I wrote three reminders about it, as a result, not a single compliment from the hotel, not even a postcard. This is the first time I’ve seen a 5th check-in hotel that didn’t even put glasses in the room, didn’t even congratulate the client on a postcard. Yes, they are not obliged to do this, but this is an attitude towards clients. Not in the room. I always have a lot of creams and hair conditioner. Art products are good, but level 5 entry requires the presence of cosmetics. There was no coffee machine in the room, as indicated in the description, there were no glasses, the view did not match the description, it was not of the garden. When checking out, I said that I was dissatisfied with the service and that my husband’s birthday was ignored, they didn’t even apologize and simply didn’t comment on it. I consider this a 4 star hotel, 5 is only because of the restaurant. old design, strange cheap pictures. Just spa was good but was a bit cold there. And look the answer of hotel on my message: “Madam, we have taken note of your comment and I can give you the following answer: As is very well explained on the website on which you made your reservation, our house has 2 hotel parts: The Côte Saint Jacques which is a Relais & Châteaux and 5 stars... and the “Maison de Famille, an hotel that has all the comforts but is not at all a 5-star hotel. In this part, effectively, there is no view of the river, the services are simpler, but the prices are excellent value for money. Regarding the presence of cosmetics, you will have to get used to doing without them. Indeed, the European Union will soon ban them in hotels because they are not compatible with our sustainable development goals... Very concerned by this problem, we have chosen to limit them from now on. Finally, don't think we've forgotten your husband's birthday. We had planned to offer you a glass and a chocolate anniversary plate during your meal, but unfortunately, you didn't want to give your husband a nice dinner for his birthday...” So First of all, in the evening we decided to have dinner at the restaurant, but we were told that there were no free tables. and it turns out that in a hotel of this level you are given a compliment for your birthday if you pay 700 € for dinner.. Not really polite answer, however I don’t recommend this place with quality/price you can have...

After my challenge of trying every Michelin Stars in Paris in 365 and all the 3 Stars in France, I’m now trying the “main” 2 stars. The newly awarded and the big names (follow me for all the reviews). When we speak about big names, this one is. Jean-Michel Lorain had 3 stars for quite a time, then 2, then back to 3 and now 2 again.

But I’m not even going to speak about JML today. I’ll speak about Burgundy, design and nephew. Because that’s the extraordinary things here.

If you’re in Paris long enough, treat yourself with a tour in Burgundy. This 2 stars restaurant is at the door of it. It’s a 2h drive from the city. I went for lunch there a Saturday. I know it’s not directly related to gastronomy, but it is. If you want to discover a renowned wine region (some say The Wine region), don’t miss out of enjoying it with the best food and in the proper setting. Which brings me to the second point. The setting. The restaurant has been renovated. It’s really gorgeous. Look at those wood tables (check the videos I’ve uploaded). It has nothing to do with the previous design. But you’ll have the view on the intemporel / timeless burgundy nature, that you’ll most likely enjoy under its liquid form while watching it in the flesh. That’s the extraordinary point here. Although it’s modern, the old floor has been kept, is still the same, the burgundy nature. Same for the cuisine, the floor is the same. You’ll have the classical dishes. You’ll have a beautiful wine list. But the nephew is there now, chef Alexandre Bondoux. I had the chance of speaking with him (so much so that I forgot to take a portrait of him), and he’s clearly in the present. I couldn’t help complementing him on the wood tables, and I noticed how focused on the present, on the clients he was. Just like his cuisine, there’s a strong heritage, but it’s not old school. It’s respectful, you’ll find the attachment to perfection from the previous generation, but there’s also a younger, fresher note, certainly from a younger generation.

It’s a solid two stars. I’ll personally go back with my darling for an escape...