齒草埔料理人的家 — Restaurant in Changbin

Probably my expectations were too high, so many good reviews. I respect people with own ideas and concept. But the ideas should be verified and tested. Most of the dished I'd describe as interesting but once is more than enough. Some dish didn't have a main component, some food was hidden under decoration ( fish on white plate under a lot of unseasoned daikon). The fish was not hot, overlooked (i guess steamed) and with skin.seabrass skin steamed tastes badly fishy. The sauce with fish was delicious, would perfectly fit with pasta like some ravioli, but for me was not that right with fish. Duck breast was good, but the sauce was not my taste. The black sesame paste didn't fits with anything on the plate. The dessert was a chocolate soup. So far I could taste it was cacao powder soup with some chocolate flakes, cherry and mochi, covered by cotton candy,, funny look but I wouldn't order that again. The wine list is not understandable, list of grapes but no word about the wineyard, producer. How to make a...

Exclusive place for lunch or dinner, beautiful setting, you eat what you get with a set menu of 7 courses including desert. You won't find what you eat here anywhere else. Absolutely special & most delicious, meticulously prepared by young & dedicated Taiwanese chef Nick & his charming wife Vivi. But don't be late, serving starts on the hour, otherwise it affects serving everyone else so they just cannot wait or let you in if you're late, and it's bookings only. You really don't want to miss this deliciously & carefully prepared food with very generous portions. Nick & Vivi's deserves a Michelin Star to begin. Thank you for a most...

這次菜單是干貝,鴨胸,黑蒜雞粥,劍齒鰈魚,燒烤黑豬,黑芝麻慕斯,漢方茶. 前三項可以稱上是前菜,鰈魚與黑豬是主菜,後面兩項就不用多說了.

干貝整體搭配來說是可以的,油煎干貝的熟度剛好,但期待能嚐到干貝經過炙熱油煎後的風味.牛蒡分別油炸與油封,同盤出現2種型態的牛蒡,但油封的牛蒡可以再做稍微複雜一點的處理,油封是為了更突顯食材本味,想法沒問題,只是牛蒡本身具有的風味,不是人人都欣賞,像我老婆就不怎麼欣賞.點綴的澄清奶油風味稍微淡了點(這算是客氣的說法),原本預期會有更濃郁的奶油風味,但實質上並不是,可能與康堤沙司風味太過相近有關,褐色澄清奶油或許更合適這樣的組合.

鴨胸搭配柑橘類的食材本身就是公定的formula,使用酸桔蜜算是標準出手式.牡蠣醬汁很大程度的讓鴨胸吃起來不致於乾澀,鴨胸本身熟度剛好,但切成小丁狀加上不是剛處理完就上桌,是需要搭配點醬汁來滋潤.牡蠣醬汁濃縮過後的鹹鮮風味強烈,稍微蓋過鴨胸本身的味道,反倒像是在吃鴨胸的口感.葫蘆巴籽做的香料油,有點意外的沒有搶戲,但葫蘆巴籽本身濃郁,強烈的香氣我沒有吃出來,不知道是不是搭配胡椒葉後,風味被中和了.

就以雞粥來說,黑蒜雞粥的雞高湯風味突出.出發前只有看到中文菜單,"粥"這個字引發我的疑問,是risotto還是porridge呢??到達餐廳看到英文菜單後才明白.如果是risotto,那就必須用不同角度來看待.豬絞肉本身並沒有給粥太多口感上的感受,但多一樣食材持續豐富粥底的角度上來說,是值得稱許.北蟲草是菜單上特別寫出來告知,因為在濃厚雞高湯的餘韻下,估計很難吃得出來北蟲草到底是甚麼風味.就以亞洲人普遍有吃補的概念上,這符合我們對吃補的執念.花枝薄片本身沒有與粥形成口感上或是風味上的對比,但顏色的對比上,他是不可多得的存在.

鰈魚對於喜歡石斑口感的人來說,肌肉纖維細粉的口感真的不是太友好.鰈魚經過鹽水浸泡處理過後再經油煎.我滿好奇chef是用多少濃度鹽水處理,因為一定濃度的鹽水會給予食材一定程度的鹹度.再來會影響食材的口感,通常食材會更緊實.這鰈魚對比沒有經鹽水處理過的算是口感緊實,但擺脫不了天生的原罪.鹹豬肉,芋頭,波菜拌炒的配菜搭底,淋上白花菜泥與墨魚醬汁上方再擺上大頭菜醃製的pickle最後撒上黑芥子粉.一道以魚為主的主菜來說,這樣的組合是不是太過複雜??尤其魚肉本身風味清淡.鹹豬肉經過sauteed後得鹹香風味搭配海鮮是我喜歡的組合,細滑綿密白花菜泥配上魚肉細粉的口感也是相得益彰.波菜經過炒熟的清脆的口感,增加口中咀嚼上的層次也不錯.所有食材單單拉出來看都是不錯的選擇,但是組合再一起就不一定是絕配.搭配的墨魚醬汁風味輕淡,反而沒給整盤菜添加紛亂,一般來說墨魚醬汁我喜歡濃郁的風味與口感.而且醬汁給太多,直接泡濕花菜泥與魚肉.上方的大頭菜薄片除了醋醃的酸爽的口感外,稍微太厚太多了.這道本應該簡單表現魚肉風味,但給的元素太多了.

相較於上道菜的混亂,燒烤黑豬反而簡單大方.豬肉經過咖啡鹽調味後煎烤.咖啡粉帶有獨特焦香風味能給予豬肉類似煙燻的風味,就如同Cayenne pepper.本來有點擔心咖啡粉的口感,但將經過醬汁的浸泡後,口感類似於黑胡椒粒,不違和.豬肉本身烤至7分熟度,我喜歡這熟度,帶著粉紅的肉色正好證明肉沒overcook.醬汁就是濃縮過後的肉汁,簡單明白,香料紅酒漬的梅子搭配熟度剛好的肉佐上厚實的肉汁,真是經典的組合.除了meshed potato過濕之外,整道菜找不出任何不合適的元素.

仙草凍配cream底的幕斯不是異類組合,黑芝麻本身風味與仙草有類似的調性,但松露油的點綴貫穿整個味覺,反而讓焦糖蘋果顯得多餘.仙草汁打的foam給予整道甜點膨鬆的口感,這道甜點不過分表現味覺與視覺,很適當.

餐廳整體來說,從餐廳的餐桌setting,到上菜方式,並不是fine...