Emilia — Restaurant in Teignbridge

Authentic Italian (no giant pepper grinders here).

A far cry from the gingham tablecloths and parmesan graters that form the chattels of typical British town ristorante's, Emilia is a delightfully simple yet elegant Osteria that showcases local produce through Italian cooking.

On a maturing summer's evening, we entered into Emilia's welcoming "cucina abitabile." Ageing furniture leads the eye to reassuringly clean kitchen steel nested behind a bar (reserved for "mangiare al banco") and a stark exposed plaster wall that emulates the Italian style throughout.

We were seated promptly on a large shared table where conversation and privacy was protected by low lighting and the atmospheric (but not intrusive) hubub of fuzzy fellow diners also enjoying the experience.

A glance at the menu made clear I would be grateful for the charming waiter's navigation through some of the less familiar Italian cookery terms that formed a pared back offering of 14 or 15 plates, ranging from antipasti to richer dishes. Sharing is the way here, and with guidance, we were able to curate a palette that would satisfy us both. Chunks of bread and freshly sliced coppa opened for the stars of the show; a pickled fennel mint and chilli salad, a clam saffron and tomato brodo, and a courgette caponata with ricotta and almond. The caponata was especially remarkable in showcasing Emilia's commitment to flavour , a revelation - a simple dish elevated to something truly gobslobbering.

Each plate was a reminder that the skill in making simple ingredients sing should never be underestimated.

The fresh dishes are prepared in an open kitchen with the chef's expertise on display, and our own dietary adjustments were met flexibly, easily, and without fuss. The wine list is as you would expect of a true osteria, extensive and expensive, but the food quality deserves to be matched, so you can justify the investment into a finer vinello.

Emilia's charm is irresistible, enjoyed, and recommended by locals, tourists, and the staff of neighbouring eateries alike.

A place, not far from our home that we will return to, not only to be satiated but...

As has been written elsewhere, Emilia was set up by a pair of London restaurateurs who had made the well travelled escape to Devon. Choosing Ashburton was an inspired decision. Inspired and slightly brave but it seems to have paid off. Full on a Wednesday night in October and full quite often if you look at the reservation site.

It's a small venue with around 20 covers, open kitchen and relaxed decor. The food is freshly prepared before your eyes from a menu that changes regularly and includes dishes such as "offal of the day"... much better than it may sound. It's Italian so there are always a couple of pasta options and an imaginative selection of meat and fish from a seasonal menu that isn't overly long - always a good sign. The idea is that you order a number of sharing platters. Quality of food and ingredients is very high and flavour matching is superb. The chef on the night we visited trained at Adode and Gidleigh under Mr Caines, so you know that you're in for a good experience. There should be a little more choice for vegetarians and pescatarians.

Service is efficient and professional. There seemed to be more wines available than appear of the wine list (I didn't ask but there is a cellar selection option), however, the wines on the list are of a very high standard.

Just what we need more of in Devon - restaurants like Emilia. The owners deserve credit for what they have done. In truth, I wavered between awarding 4 or 5 stars (so probably deserves 4.5) but given that we need more restaurants like this to arrive and thrive in Devon I'm happy to round up,...

My second visit to Emilia and the food was as fabulous as the first, and although I recognise their very fine wine list they do have to realise this is Devon and not London! I am sure the prices on their wine list are fully justified , but they do need a moderately priced house wine that would mean when dining with friends we could enjoy a second bottle without balking at the price! Emilia will also have to address the situation we were put in last night, we arrived 10mins early and were told to go away and come back in 15mins which we did and still our table was not ready, at the same time another group arrived for their booked table and were asked to wait outside. What is going to happen in the winter or indeed would we all have had to wait outside in the rain? This venue is a delight to have in Ashburton and I hope it thrives, they just need to sort out their wine list and try not to have back to back reservations, eating out is a social and enjoyable experience not...