The Restaurant at Meadowood — Restaurant in Napa Valley AVA

The definition of a 3-star Michelin is "exceptional cuisine that is worth a special journey". Unfortunately the Spring '19 menu did not meet this high bar, and it is with some consternation that I write this less-than-perfect review, because our experience here was quite wonderful.

So let's begin with all that the Restaurant had done right -- the ambiance, the location, and especially the SERVICE. The Restaurant at Meadowood is itself nestled within the resort, up a short but scenic tree-lined drive. The gate man, the valet, the host were all very friendly and attentive, and we were promptly ushered into a calming and serene location -- exposed wood, solid stone, leather chairs, perfectly placed lighting, Zalto glasses, and even a faux tree. The service staff was superb, wonderful (but also appropriate) wine recommendations by the Somm, followed by a consistent and delicate dance of 6 plates hitting the table within 10 seconds during each of the 16+ times they were served and subsequently cleared -- mesmerizing to watch. Also important, taxes and gratuity are included (and the staff helpfully mentioned this again at the end of the meal), saves one from the anxiety and mental gymnastics of calculating a living wage subsidy, guilty of not doing it properly, or the regret of overdoing it.

TL;DR: this place was fancy a-f, and tasteful at it.

But alas, the crux of Michelin's guide (which navigated us here), is one based in cuisine, and the majority of the dishes left something to be desired. The theme, for the Spring '19 menu, is likely one rooted in ingredients, farm-to-table, hyper-local, [insert buzzword], there is no presentation, no flair, no frills, no pizzazz -- which is something we have grown accustomed to with Michelin "destinations" -- a Disneyland for your mouth; a Broadway play for your palate. This ... was much more simple. Perhaps zen?

Prior to the meal, a basket of fresh vegetables was brought out -- perhaps the same that went into our dishes? We were not sure. On asking why the asparagus is white, the presenter just rehearsed the same line (but I Googled it -- it was because it was sun/chlorophyll deprived -- by growing completely submerged in soil or covering with a tarp, the result is a more fibrous and milder ... asparagus).

The dishes were brought out one by one, properly spaced, interjected with the few bottles of aptly paired wines we had ordered. However, few were particularly memorable: 1. the salad roll tasted... green; 2. the baby potatoes tasted... like my garden potatoes; 3. the beignet chestnut had a good texture; 4. the miso oyster nasturtium (a perennial weed) was fresh; 5. the white asparagus was cooked and chilled to perfection, the pacific rock crab and wild onion flavorful; 6. the escabeche of broccoli clams tasted of al dente broccoli, and fine textured clams; 7. the caviar smoked tendon cultured butter sabayon was DELICIOUS, like a perfectly integrated red wine it just all melded together -- this was the single dish we probably came for; 8. abalone and cabbage, meh; 9. local sole cover crop, meh; 10. duck tea followed by pekin duck, had much better in Beijing, the risotto (specifically noted that it was made with CA rice! i.e. Cal-rose which accounts for more than 90% of rice consumed in the US?) was on the salty side and did not quite showcase the duck; 11. the slow cooked pork collar, interesting kohlrabi texture but taste was lacking; 12. black truffle veined blue cheese with beeswax pear and charter oak bread -- this screamed "lazy chef", the blue cheese completely overpowered any truffle aroma, olfactory or taste; 13. yogurt cultured with almond blossoms rhubarb sorrels - not sure what the almond flowers did for this dish, but the presentation was somewhat pretty, tasted like yogurt; 14. bay leaf ice cream with a chocolate ball over a bay leaf sprig - good and unique ice cream flavor, perfect texture; 15. last bites - cute box, but snacks were reminiscent of Asian grocery store knick knacks.

In sum... good food? Yes. "Exceptional cuisine that is worth a special...

This used to be my favorite 3 starred Michelin restaurant. Just recently had dinner here for my birthday and comparing to the last time I was here around this season 4 years ago, I'd have to say that I am somewhat disappointed. Everything was prepared and executed well with fresh quality ingredients as it should be since it is a 3 star Michelin but seems more like a 1 or 2 star restaurant instead. Nothing was too overpowering or too salty or too sweet which is good, but this time I didn't see as much innovation, creativity, or heart as I did 4 yrs ago. None of the dishes really stood out except maybe the first single bite amuse bouche of the savory beignet and maybe the first fish dish. I was getting sick of the 3rd raw/cured protein tasting. Textures were one-noted, I wish there was some crunch or something charred/grilled. There was this banana foster dessert without the banana on top, instead they used an eggplant (this might be considered creative but I miss the actual banana flavor!) otherwise the icecream and whiskey caramel sauce were delicious. Since it was my birthday, the card and special bday treat at the end were a nice gesture but we never received any menus to take home like the waiter had promised us when we were first seated. Last time I was here, we were given menus by the end of the meal and I couldn't get enough of one of the best desserts I have ever eaten of all restaurants which was such an amazing magical original combination of flavors of pandan leaf, toasted rice, lime, apples, and carrot malt all in a glass to drink. Why can't they do something incredible like that anymore? Seriously I was so disappointed and we were also taken back to the kitchen, lots of young cooks working hard...really what you are paying for is a lot of staffing and dish washing with well cooked but average tasting food. Food was good and nothing in particular we disliked, but not GREAT which is what should be expected for the price and the rating of this Michelin restaurant. They did try different combinations of ingredients and flavors but really nothing special. I would have rather had authentic home cooked meals by my family or eaten at some ethnic mom and pop hole in the wall. Guess I was just dreaming of my previous experience years ago which is why I had to come back. Sorry just not worth it and I wouldn't recommend this restaurant to anyone especially if I wouldn't go back there. I almost felt uneasy there too with all the staff kind of acting and putting on a show from a script. Sometimes some people want to be left alone without small talk and other times it's appropriate, all that just felt too forced and overbearing. We understand you want our table for the next guest, we really didn't need to see the kitchen, just don't forget to...

This was my first Michelin 3 star experience, and the dinner was really good overall.

After a few amuse bouches, our meal started with surf clam (gwai fei pong at Chinese restaurants) with avocado and lardo. I loved the flavor combination as avocado and lardo added a nice richness to the clam. My only complaint about this dish is that the surf clam was minced up. I really think it would've been more interesting if the clam meat was cut into large, thin slices, because the surf clam's natural firm texture would've created a nice contrast with the softer avocado and lardo.

The little mini brioche that accompanied the clam was also pretty fantastic. It had a rich and buttery flavor, but it was still soft and fluffy. Mmmm so good.

My favorite dish of the night was the abalone on smoked peppers and eggplant. The abalone was perfectly tender and not rubbery at all. There was no hint of fishiness, and its delicate sweetness was complimented by the fragrant smoke in the peppers, eggplant, and brothy sauce. I really enjoyed the execution of the dish as well. The crisp sides of the abalone with the soft eggplant and runny sauce created really deep layers of textures. I kinda wish the dinner was just multiple servings of this course.

The poultry and vegetable broth was also surprisingly good. While some thought it was too salty, I liked its boldness, and it had a strong umami flavor. The vegetables gave it a balanced sweetness, but I'm not sure if the bee resin did anything. I've never had bee resin before, so I wasn't sure what to look for. What would really take this broth to the next level would be a little ginseng. Maybe it's my Chinese taste buds, but I think just a hint of ginseng bitterness would've added some more complexity and balance to the broth. Regardless, it was still really tasty.

I think the only other memorable dish was the brillat savarin cheese, which was the last of the savory courses. It's very rich, creamy, savory, slightly salty, but not very sour which I liked. I can't say I cared that much about the handmade rye bread (Tartine's country loaf tastes better), but the cheese was delicious.

The rest of the dinner was either weird or underwhelming. There was this strange cereal dish in the middle of the meal that felt out of place. It was various grains in Oaxacan corn flavored milk. Maybe I'm just not sophisticated enough to appreciate its inclusion, but I didn't like it. The pork collar and squab courses also didn't feel very special. They were served with their typical complimentary fruits like figs and berries. I thought the seafood courses were way more delicious and creative.

While not everything was perfect, there were some very memorable courses that made the experience worthwhile....