Here is the secret: order the flautas del pollo. I would not have shared this with you if I were still living in Salinas. For years, as I worked with my father and uncle at One Stop Market, the flautas at El Grullense were my go-to meal, and I thought that this was food at its perfection: fresh, homemade style revelations of an often ill-regarded plate (the taquito) that flip our notions of what good food is and what bad food is entirely upside down. Seriously. I have eaten around the world, and the flautas are among the best things I have tasted.