Château La Coste — Attraction in Aix-en-Provence

One finds oneself, quite against one’s better judgement, at Château La Coste, that illustrious Provençal vineyard now less a bastion of viniculture and more a theme park for the well-heeled and aesthetically suggestible.

Of course, the rosé, pink, cold, and entirely inoffensive, was, I’m assured by a trusted friend, “quite drinkable.” I wouldn’t know; I sip without comprehension, but it did go down easily, like Perrier with a slightly flirtatious agenda. It certainly did nothing to hinder conversation, which is more than can be said for some of the entrées.

For the grounds! Imagine if a luxury retail developer were given a blank cheque and told, “Darling, make it artistic.” Sculptures abound, some delightful, others suspiciously reminiscent of IKEA clearance items enlarged to the size of livestock. Buildings rise like Bond villain lairs, all angles and intentions, each signed off by a globally adored starchitect. It’s all frightfully ambitious, but a little like dressing a sausage roll in Versace.

One suspects the true terroir here is ego.

The Meal, a parade of promising-sounding dishes, alas, marched straight into the arms of mediocrity.

Starters:

Empanadas de Boeuf ‘Mendoza’ - charred crusts sheltering what might once have been beef, now mostly memory. Frankly, the pepper buns at a Taipei night market offer more poetry and chew.

Tuna Tartare - competent, if soulless. The peas were perky, the mint fresh, the sauce a bit too enthusiastic. It was trying very hard to be remembered.

Nectarine and Buffalo Mozzarella Salad - the highlight, if one can use that term for a fruit salad on designer leaves. Pretty on the plate. Not unlike the guests.

Mains:

Ribeye Steak (330g) - as predictable as a Tory backbencher at a country club. Cooked to a proper medium, yes, but devoid of love. Chimichurri did its valiant best.

Baked Cod “Papillote” - shy, mild-mannered, and the sort of dish that might apologise for inconveniencing you.

Coquelet de Bresse - possibly raised with affection, but certainly cooked with none. Bone-dry, with a texture one might generously describe as “archival.”

The potatoes, at least, were varied. Crushed, wedged, dominoed, they arrived in every configuration known to man, short of being sculpted into Rodin’s Thinker. One might say the kitchen has a fetish for tubers.

The Bill, €368.55, with a genteel 5% in voluntarily, presumably for service, which was earnest, if slightly dazed, the staff seemed as bewildered by the food as we were.

Château La Coste has the posture of a temple, but the soul of a shopping mall. It is confident, curated, and utterly devoid of character. Were I a bottle of wine, I’d far rather be poured at a scruffy, family-run vineyard where the dog roams the dining room and the grandmother stirs the stew.

Still, I raise my pink glass to the experience: It was, like the rosé, drinkable, forgettable, and...

Okay, so there is a disconnect here for me... The spaces are magnificent, they setting pastoral and charming, the architecture modern and somewhat brutalist, and staff extremely kind and knowledgeable. Where there is an issue is the art, the "art-tour" through the grounds, amd how they orchestrate the way in which you view the art, and the absolute lack of basic amenities such as available water, toilette, and basic safety items for guests. The art for the most part left me wanting more, and more of it. The Richard Serra "sculpture" I would say is am insult to hardworking metal and steel tradesmen around the world; overly simplistic and poorly placed. The Foxes by Michael Stipe were very nice, inviting and well placed, well done. The Liam Gillick "Multiplied Resistance Screened" was a lovely addition to his body of work and very inviting and situated perfectly. The shining star for me was the Tadao Ando "Pavillion of Four Cubes..." exterior was stark and brave, the entrance creepy and inviting, the darkness of the path to the interior of 4 illuminated cubes resting inside was sublime. So welll thought out and put into action. LOVELY The Prune Nourry " Mater Earth" was as expected; beautiful and large, and appropriately placed. The Frank Gehry Pavillion was very nicely done, comfortable audience seats in a natural setting, and looks like it has great acoustics for performances, but in a weird way it seemed out of place to me, but i saw it in the daylight, nighttime may have an entirely different effect.

Now to some sore points. As a museum and installation fan, I am accustomed to different places and configurations for display spaces. This layout took it to another level. Spread over many acres, on trails that for some would be difficult or impossible to traverse. Couple this with the lack of ANY drinking water, at any point on the entire trail system, coupled with NO bathroom facilities save for those in the main building, these things seemed to scream a lack of respect for the customer who has paid a fee to do the long, and for 7+ months a year, HOT trail walk. I was told I could purchase a 19 Euro glass Damian Hirst water bottle at the shop and fill it up for my walk...my how generous of Lacoste! As someone who has lived part time in France for many years, would recommend this place for a visit, but I myself would not return with them for the visit. Very disappointing, because it seems as though ABSOLUTE creature comforts, and frankly safety, have been eliminated for the profit...

Château La Coste is truly a gem nestled in the heart of Provence. It exists in a landscape where nature thrives, bathed in the unconditional heat , which harmoniously blends with the world of art. This place exemplifies a utopia, seamlessly combining aesthetics, humanism, and creativity, while allowing ample space for personal experiences and contemplation. It is a destination that never fails to surprise, convince, and enchant, even after multiple visits. It is like entering a realm where the worries of the world are smoothed out, and one can truly immerse themselves in the present moment. With each visit, you are greeted with a sense of anticipation, unsure of where you want to dine next, even with the help of Louise Bourgeois' imposing spider sculpture. Every corner of this place demands exploration.

The architecture of Château La Coste is a testament to the finest contemporary designs, creating an embracing atmosphere that beckons visitors to dream of living in such a modern and desirable setting. The selection of the menu is exclusive and carefully curated, offering a delightful culinary experience. As you look around, you can't help but notice the contentment reflected on the faces of the patrons. The clientele here is international, yet locals also relish in the oasis and celebrate life alongside their families. It's a haven away from the noise of big cities and crowded tourist hotspots.

While savoring the breathtaking views, you'll be caressed by the cool wind and presented with an exceptional wine list. Château La Coste encourages a sense of deceleration, allowing time to pass with its own rhythm. It instils a sense of curiosity and stimulates the mind. You are at a place that captivates the senses and nourishes the soul. It is a haven where nature, art, and contemporary living come together in perfect harmony. Whether you are seeking artistic inspiration, a culinary adventure, or a tranquil escape, Château La Coste offers now under the spell of Andy an experience that is both unforgettable and...