The ancient Sangameshwar temple of Swayambhu Mahadev at the confluence of two rivers namely Karha and Chambali (Bhogwati) is situated in the historically significant city of Saswad in the state of Maharashtra. Saswad is known to be deeply entrenched in history, spirituality, religion, culture and architecture from time immemorial. It is believed that the origin of this ancient Sangameshwar temple can be traced back to the Pandavas. Historical and religious references are conclusive that the Pandavas resided in this place in their exile. During their stay here, it was observed that there was a severe water crisis in this region. Lord Krishna who had accompanied the Pandavas noticed Lord Brahma sitting nearby deep in meditation having a kamandalu that was full of water. Lord Krishna quickly asked Bheema to bring that kamandalu and suggested that a river can be made to flow from the water flowing out of the kamandalu. Bheema enthusiastically went up to Lord Brahma to request him to part with the water in the kamandalu but Lord Brahma was blissfully unaware of the surroundings. Bheema in an effort to get his attention poured cold water on his head. Lord Brahma quick to anger at this impertinence of Bheema chased him and, it was during this flight of Bheema that the Shiva Lingas were created in five spots to appease Lord Brahma and seek the blessings of Lord Shiva and the birth of the river Karha named after the kamandalu of Lord Brahma called Kara occurred. The temple that one sees today is probably been built between the 10th and 13th century in the typical Hemadpanti style of architecture (style incorporating black stone and lime without using any mortar using the technique of mortise and tenon joint). As one climbs the stone steps, one’s attention rests on the stunning architecture, the temple’s shikara that has hundreds of intricate sculptures and the majestic Nandi. The entrance mandapam has beautifully weathered stone pillars with two deepamalas (row of lamps) on either side, a gaily painted Nandi and a detailed carving of a tortoise with a lotus on its back on the floor. There is also a very interesting design of Tulasi Vrindavan that holds a Shiva Linga in the middle with a solid base below and so, when water falls on the sacred tulasi, it falls on the pindi or Shakti peetam of the Linga. The entrance mandapam leads to the maha mandapam where Lord Ganesha, Lord Hanuman and others are worshipped in the niches of the thick walls. The garbha griha (sanctum sanctorum) oozes of calm, serenity and peace. There is a lone old lamp over the Shiva Linga and in that dim illumination, you can see Goddess Parvati and Lord Ganesha in the background with a picture of Saint Sopandev painted on the sidewall. Perhaps, it is the legendary stories associated with this temple or perhaps it is the energy of this place that is very comforting, but whatever the reason maybe, it renders you silent and...
Read moreBelieved to have been built sometime between the 10th and 13th century, Sangameshwar temple stands guard over the confluence of the Chamli and Karha rivers, just south of Saswad. Dedicated to Lord Shiva, the temple is about 35km south-east of Pune, and takes just over an hour to reach there from Pune. Dedicated to lord Shiva, the temple holds a commanding position, and must be quite an impressive sight during the monsoons when the rivers are filled with fresh new rains. As it’s located right on the edge of Saswad, it has the feel of being more isolated than it actually is. The temple is a mix of old architecture, one assumes possibly original, plus later modifications and renovations. The temple’s Shikhara (dome) has literally hundreds of small sculptures of deities carved in consecutive layers. Although now badly weathered, you can still make out these figures on both the main temple and other peripheral buildings. From the temple platform it’s possible to walk down to the river on both sides, where the are smaller shrines, but I wasn’t able to find any path extending along the river bank going away from the temple. The main temple has two deepmalas on either side, and an unexpectedly large and colourfully painted Nandi in the middle of the temple hall. I love the way the Nandi is positioned in the temple hall, peering into the interior of the temple. Further within the temple, just outside the sanctum sanctorum sits Lord Ganesh and other guardian deities carved in the niches of the sustantial walls. The sanctum room is far from silent, a chant is playing in a repetitive loop with accompanying sounds of small bells chiming. It’s an atmospheric space, a sense that time has momentarily stood still and you’re awash with a sense of inner peace. A smaller partially damaged but life size Nandi carved out of black stone lies immediately in front of the temple. I confess my expectations prior to visiting this temple were a little low, but what I found was quite surprising. I think my next trip to Pune in 2019 will have to include a little further exploration in and around Saswad, there seems to be a few more locations I should check out.
Visiting the Sangameshwar Temple in Saswad would be the perfect stop-off if you were intending to visit the Khandoba Temple in Jejuri from Pune. You’d need about an hour to see the temple and explore its...
Read moreBelieved to have been built sometime between the 10th and 13th century, Sangameshwar temple stands guard over the confluence of the Chamli and Karha rivers, just south of Saswad. Dedicated to Lord Shiva, the temple is about 35km south-east of Pune, and takes just over an hour to reach there from Pune.
Dedicated to lord Shiva, the temple holds a commanding position, and must be quite an impressive sight during the monsoons when the rivers are filled with fresh new rains. As it’s located right on the edge of Saswad, it has the feel of being more isolated than it actually is.
The temple is a mix of old architecture, one assumes possibly original, plus later modifications and renovations. The temple’s Shikhara (dome) has literally hundreds of small sculptures of deities carved in consecutive layers. Although now badly weathered, you can still make out these figures on both the main temple and other peripheral buildings.
From the temple platform it’s possible to walk down to the river on both sides, where the are smaller shrines, but I wasn’t able to find any path extending along the river bank going away from the temple.
The main temple has two deepmalas on either side, and an unexpectedly large and colourfully painted Nandi in the middle of the temple hall. I love the way the Nandi is positioned in the temple hall, peering into the interior of the temple.
Further within the temple, just outside the sanctum sanctorum sits Lord Ganesh and other guardian deities carved in the niches of the sustantial walls.
The garbhagriha is a somewhat dark roomed cellar, with a lone diya over the Shivling. You can see Goddess Parvati and Lord Ganesha in the background with a picture of Saint Sopandev painted on the sidewall.
The sanctum room is far from silent, a chant is playing in a repetitive loop with accompanying sounds of small bells chiming. It’s an atmospheric space, a sense that time has momentarily stood still and you’re awash with a sense of inner peace.
A smaller partially damaged but life size Nandi carved out of black stone lies immediately in front...
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