We first visited Batukaras more than 30 years ago when it was an isolated local fishing and farming community. The surfing bay itself had a scattering of basic beach cabins where the hardier tourist could bed down for the night and a bamboo and thatch warung where freshly cooked local food and drink was available. It was rare in those days to see many other people on the beach or in the bay. It was Pangandaran Regency's best kept secret and it was beautiful.
Today a significant level of investment, both private and public, is pouring into the village which is developing fast. New homestays, cafes, restos and hotels are popping up throughout the village and it's environs. While the West Bay has changed the most, with the arrival of a bus park and a large new and impressive hotel, the rest of the main body of the village has managed to develop without losing its rural character.
It's common to hear tourists bemoan the development of villages of the type of Batukaras, saddened as they are by the loss of perceived innocence and primitive simplicity. But development is a massive boon to the local economy, and helps improve the standard of living of the whole community. The desires of the tourist should not inhibit the improvement of conditions for the local population, just so the tourist can marvel at their "romantic" simple way of life. Development is good if it's done carefully. And from what I can see, Batukaras is doing a great job!
Edit: I should have said the accompanying photos were taken at House of Sawa, a delightful homestay and a lovely outdoor cafe/restaurant. The style and ambience of House of Sawa fitted perfectly with the rural tranquility of Batukaras. The food was excellent and well-priced and everything they serve is prepared on site, including the fabulous, fresh iced cinnamon buns. I urge you to seek out this gem and sample their wares.
I'd just like to add that we discovered House of Sawa by accident while looking for somewhere else. We only stopped to eat. We didn't stay overnight, and we are not affiliated in any way with...
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