We visited the Therme Vals on August 8th and were looking forward to this trip to Switzerland since 15 years, after learning about the amazing architecture of Peter Zumthor's remarkable building in university.
When arriving, we were confused and disappointed of the entrance. Walking amidst 70s-style apartment high rises, appearing deserted, with the Therme nowhere to be seen, we entered the spa through the basement and were welcomed by a large dustbin and an uninviting entrance. Walking down a corridor that was probably not designed by Zumthor and didn't match his vision, we were greeted by a friendly woman that took our 60 Franc payment and gave us electronic wristlets for entering the bathing area. Finally entering Zumthor's spa, we walked through the entrance gate that was, to our surprise, broken. It is fair to say that we were already slightly taken aback at this point.
Nevertheless, the first corridor leading towards the changing rooms was a sight to behold. The changing rooms were marvelously designed as well, even though they have certainly aged since the opening in 1996. Entering the spa we were greeted by plastic signboards not worthy of the design of the building, telling us to leave our phones in the locker rooms. Throughout the building, you would discover these kind of small digressions from Zumthor's vision here and there.
The building itself is truly marvelous and a celebration of water, with many details and rooms that are worth to be discovered. I do not want to spoil this amazing experience here - you have to visit it yourself to experience it.
However, unfortunately our visit was totally ruined by the poor behavior of the visitors, which in the end must be accounted for as poor management of the Spa.
During our stay, we were confronted with:
• A large group of young men (20-30), smoking marijuana and cigarettes in the outside area. Even following our complaints, this did not change.
• Water pistols being used to annoy other guests, by said group.
• Our towels being taken by strangers, three times.
• A noise level due to the guests shouting, that was almost unbearable. This is explained by the plain stone walls used in Zumthor's design that rely on a quiet crowd.
• An iPhone, of which the alarm was going off for 10 minutes straight, reverberating annoyingly in the main hall.
In summary, our visit to which we were looking out for since more than a decade, was utterly ruined.
The building could not be appreciated either, as it is hidden behind hideous high rises. Our only solace was the apologies of the lady at the front desk when leaving, who was visibly embarrassed by our complaints.
Zumthor's original vision was to build a serene Spa with a quiet, meditative experience, leaving room for introspection. Leaflets were even supposed to be handed out at the entrance, guiding the visitors in their behaviour (see Bauwelt 1997, Heft 14, "Fließendes Wasser, Geschichteter Stein"). Nothing of this was left 26 years later, unfortunately.
In summary, the visit to this spa left us disappointed. While the building is a marvel of modern architecture, the enjoyment of your visit can easily be spoiled by the crowd in the spa that is virtually unmanaged. Try to visit off season, when as few people as possible are there.
Two stars instead of one only because of the amazing...
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