It wasn’t just any scent—it was ghee, golden and rich, carrying a memory of boiling milk over an earthen pot. As I wandered down the streets from Landour to Mussoorie on a crisp winter evening, a sudden aroma halted me mid-step. It was the small-town charm of the space that sealed my decision—I had to step inside.
The place is called 'Hapur Walo Kee Dukan.' At first glance, it was an unassuming spot, but the deeper I looked, the more it unfolded like a living museum. Colorful pillars, the brass vessels, pots, patilas, and tokans, and shelves filled with traditional cookware evoke a deep sense of nostalgia and cultural pride. Around them, utensils from a bygone era—some still in use—spoke of kitchens and hands that had cooked for generations. The walls weren’t just walls; they were tapestries of black-and-white photographs, snippets of family stories, and signs of traditions tangibly preserved.
Approaching the food was like stepping into a sensory symphony. On a large stove rested nearly fifteen small vessels, each simmering with a different dish—lentils turning gently into creamy daal, rotis on open fire exuding smoky undertones, and leafy greens sizzling in hot mustard oil. The hiss of the hot pan mixed with the soft clinking of ladles against metal, creating a rhythm that made the space feel alive. Each dish held its place like a performer in a carefully orchestrated ensemble, inviting not just a taste but a story with every spoonful.
The owner, brimming with pride, shared how this place wasn’t just a business but a homage to the culinary heritage of the Garhwal region. 'Every vessel, every recipe has a story,' he said, his eyes lighting up. He offered us an invitation to return for dinner—an opportunity to experience authentic Pahadi cuisine the way it’s meant to be savoured. It was a bridge to the land, the people, and...
Read moreHapor Walo Ki Dukaan " :- Serving authentic Pahadi( mountain) vegetarian cuisine since 1947.In the present third generation this distinctly different tiny restaurant is run by Mr Pankaj.Agarwal who personally attended us akin to V.I.P diners and explained us the preparation of the dishes as well as the names of various vegetables served in thali's. As you see there are 3 different thali's( Plates) with 1 thali having only sweet dishes.The smaller thali has roti's. As for me this was the largest " FOOD THALI" Vegetarian or non- vegetarian that i had seen and eaten from in my life.This thali is meant for a minimum of 2 people or still better 3 in order to finish all that is served.Travel educates.If visiting Mussoorie and even if a hard core non' vegetarian like yours truly make a visit to " Hapor Walo Ki Dukaan " a mandatory point on your sightseeing list of Mussoorie. Cost of this sumptuous...
Read moreI recently visited this place with my family. Since, we were not very hungry, we ordered only Chhole Samosa, Chhole Tikki and some sweets. The food was very good. Everything was served steaming hot in brass utensils. Both the chaats were unique, very delicious and comforting in the cold weather of Mussoorie. For sweets, we ordered Bal Mithai (local speciality) and a mixed chura of Atta, Besan, Mandwa topped with ghee. Both the sweets were also very delicious. The staff was also very attentive and friendly. They also offer a large variety of local dishes which we were very tempted to try but unfortunately couldn't because we weren't that hungry. They also sell some local spices and pulses. Overall it was a very wholesome place which served great food by people proud of their work. I am very glad I...
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