L’Antica Isola — Restaurant in La Maddalena

L’Antica Isola isn’t the kind of place you stumble upon; it’s the kind of place you seek out. Hidden away, it’s a culinary sanctuary that whispers of tradition, precision, and a deep respect for Sardinia’s bounty. Walking in, you know you’re in for something special, a place where the kitchen isn’t just about feeding you but about telling a story, one plate at a time.

The setting? Unforgettable. You’re seated poolside, surrounded by ancient, giant granite rocks that tower above you like sentinels of time, creating an atmosphere that’s both intimate and awe-inspiring. The air hums with the soft notes of a live music duo, their repertoire a seamless blend of English and European covers. It’s the kind of ambiance that makes you want to linger, to savor not just the food but the entire experience.

The evening began with a dish that set the bar so high it was almost unfair to what followed, the Grilled sous-vide octopus with potato foam, sundried tomatoes, and caramelized red onion. Now, I’ve had my fair share of octopus in my travels, but this one? It was the kind of dish that makes you close your eyes, shut out the world, and just let the flavors wash over you. The octopus was tender enough to melt in your mouth, perfectly complemented by the sweetness of the caramelized onion and the tang of the sundried tomatoes. A strong start, no doubt.

For the mains, we dove into the Seared squid with scapece-style zucchini and Pecorino Romano cheese sauce. It was a masterclass in balance, rich, savory, and with just enough of that Pecorino bite to keep things interesting. The squid itself was cooked to that elusive point of perfection, tender, not chewy, with just a hint of the sea. This is the kind of dish that reminds you why you travel, why you search out these hidden gems.

Next up was the Smoked turbot fillet with black truffle, creamed potatoes, and bottarga flakes. Presentation here was flawless, as if the dish had been crafted by a sculptor rather than a chef. The turbot was delicate, perfectly cooked, the kind of fish that flakes apart with just the whisper of a fork. The black truffle added a luxurious depth, while the bottarga brought that punch of umami that left you scraping the plate for more. It was indulgent without being overwhelming, a dish that stayed with you long after the last bite.

But even the best nights have their missteps. The Carnaroli risotto with cacio e pepe sauce, orange, and scallops was, unfortunately, a bit of a letdown. Don’t get me wrong, it was well-executed, creamy, with that familiar cacio e pepe kick. But it lacked something, a spark, perhaps. The scallops, though cooked well, were too few and far between, leaving the dish feeling more like an afterthought than a main event.

Redemption came swiftly with the Ravioli filled with Sardinian suckling pig and myrtle leaves sauce. This was Sardinia on a plate, the earthy, succulent pork encased in delicate pasta, with the myrtle sauce adding a fragrant, almost wild note that tied the whole dish together. It was the kind of dish that makes you want to come back, just to experience it again.

Dessert was a more subdued affair. We opted for ice cream and Pavlova, both good but nothing to write home about. After the highs of the previous courses, these felt like a gentle landing rather than a grand finale.

L’Antica Isola is a place that knows what it’s doing. It’s a restaurant that honors its roots while daring to push the boundaries just enough to keep things interesting. And while not every dish hit the mark, the ones that did were worth the journey alone. Dining poolside, surrounded by the timeless beauty of granite monoliths and serenaded by live music, is an experience that stays with you. Sardinia never...

The price-performance ratio is absolutely inadequate.

The restaurant offers a solid selection of appetizers and desserts, which are flavorful and justify the just-about acceptable prices. However, why a tomato salad should cost 18 euros is beyond my understanding.

The wine selection is excellent.

But with the main courses – especially the “Catch of the Day” – the positive experience ends painfully. The pricing for fish by weight at L’Antico Isola is completely dishonest. At 14 euros per 100 grams, the served fish should have weighed 1.1 kilograms. Instead of the 1.1 kilograms charged for two Persons (154 Euro), the apparently small gilt-head bream weighed no more than 600 grams (see photo). A proper weight check, ideally in front of the guests, would be a way to build trust here.

Culinary execution: The fish was served without sauce, which is expected for such a dish. Side dishes, like simple potatoes (see photo), had to be ordered separately and were also disproportionately expensive at 10 euros. Vegetables were not even offered. An additional mixed salad, which was ordered, never arrived at the table.

Conclusion: Caution is advised with dishes priced by 100 grams – it is essential to clarify in advance what will actually be served and whether side dishes are included. Unfortunately, such non-transparent pricing and lack of service spoil the experience.

Conclusion: On La Maddalena, there are several fish restaurants worth visiting. L’Antica Isola is definitely not...

I believe the restaurant wants to be more than what it can deliver.

It wants to be a fine dining restaurant with a luxurious menu that explores the foods of sardignia and Italy with a modern twist.

What it is; poorly lit environment with too bright lights, decor that is more 90s feel, and food that sounds great on the menu yet falls short.

The risotto with scallops (plural) was not even 1 scallop that was cut to small pieces, risotto was good but for about 22 eur you feel cheated.

The grilled fish with potato puree and truffles was overly salted fish, a potato that must have been young as it became like glue, and something I would not call truffles (I put a whole piece in my mouth and tastes absolutely nothing...)

Service wise; some of the staff try there best and work hard, so 4 stars for them. Others need a course in hospitality if one wants to keep...