Highland Backpacking Trail — Attraction in Unorganized South Nipissing

I recently hiked this trail in 4 days, 3 nights (July 2019) with a friend.

First, Campsites: as always in Algonquin, the campsites were absolutely spectacular.

The first night we stayed at the first 'point' campsite on Provoking 'East'. It was lovely, though significant tree cover got in the way of good stargazing if that's your thing, and though the map seems to show a campsite directly across the water, it seems to have been unoccupied so we got good privacy.

Second night, we stayed at the second campsite on Harness lake (doing the long loop clockwise). This was arguably the most beautiful campsite I have ever stayed at (and I've had a good enough sample size in Algonquin for that to mean something). It had a rocky point complete with a lone, majestic, white pine at the end and a fire pit. Seriously, the site reminded me of that Tom Thomson painting. I recommend you seek it out.

Third night, we stayed on Provoking 'West' at the first site on your right (ignoring the two sites on the South side of the lake). This site was the worst of the three (still private and secluded and phenomenal compared with any other park in Southern Ontario, but the thunderbox was bizarrely far from the site, and there were slim pickings for level ground to set up the tent).

Second: Swimming: This was amazing at all sites during our mid-July trip. The water in both Provoking Lake and Harness Lake had to have been at least mid-70s. Aside from a slight chill when we jumped in, the water was warm. I'll go out on a limb and say these lakes must be shallow or something so they can get that warm. It was a perfect way to cool off at the end of each day, and all of our sites had good places for getting in the water.

Third: Views and rest stops: The two waterfalls on the trail were both very scenic and they were nice places to take a break. I suspect you could even throw your swimsuit on and take a dip in a whirlpool if you wanted to cool off at either one (we did not do this, but it was tempting to try). The Starling Lake lookout is worth the short detour. The view is stunning. Unfortunately, the lookout just south of Faya Lake isn't really a lookout anymore because trees have grown up to block the view (as my friend said: "Lookout? It's more like 'look out' or you'll miss it!"). That said, it's a rocky spot where you can lie down and take a break to split up your hike. At the first crossing with Mosquito Creek (going southbound) there is a nice open spot to take a break and try to spot some wildlife in the adjacent marsh. There was a bit of wind when we were there so this spot was also a nice place to take off the bug nets for a few minutes. Which brings me to...

Fourth: Insects. The trail south from Provoking East to Harness Lake had the worst insect problem of any place I've ever camped ('Mosquito Creek' is not just the name). For this reason, I'm never doing another backpacking trip in Algonquin in the middle of summer. If you are going in mid-summer, be sure to bring a full upper-body bug net (I did, and it made this stretch bearable but by no means pleasant) and either long pants or bug net pants. Do not, under any circumstance, attempt this trail from mid-May through August without complete mosquito cover. Insect repellant is useless on this trail. My hands (the only exposed part of my body) have a dozen or so bites on them despite using 30% DEET cream and constant monitoring to swat the bugs as they landed. They also got a few bites on my shoulders (the straps of my pack kept the net close to my skin there, so they were able to bite through the net and my shirt). Bugs at the campsites were generally not too bad (typical for Algonquin), but on the trail I almost never took off my bug shirt. The bug issue makes this trail lose a star in my rating, but as others have noted, if you do this trail in the off season, should be good.

To sum it up: Good campsites and good swimming, but very few views for the kms you hike, and lots of...

EDIT: Recently, Algonquin changed the rules for backcountry camping. You will get the site you booked online. I have change my review to reflect that.

I've been to this trail twice now and only around Provoking Lake. It is not for the light hearted beginner unless you're ready for a challenge. If you are only going for the day, start your hike in the morning so that you have enough daylight to complete. I've stayed at both west and east, and I prefer east but there are some great sites on the west if you can get them. Some of the sites are not close to the trail - you can expect to have this happen on the West side. Some sites are 500m-1km away from the trail itself. On the trail you really should have proper hiking boots because it's not an easy one and if it rains at all, it is dangerous. You can use the bike trails as shortcuts - not really short in distance but are fully flat if your feet hurt. The portage trail is a bit easier to use but it connects to the bike trail so you'll have to decide if you'd rather go thru the rugged nature or the flat but longer distance trails. Also, the map shows you distance and NOT terrain so expect to hike longer than what the map says. Example, let's say the map says 1.2km between a checkpoint, well depending how rugged that area is, you can easily add a km to your route. Aside from that, if you have time and energy, go from one site to another and thoroughly look at them to see how they will work for you for future trips. Some of the photos of the sites are useless, so it's hard to determine if it would be a great site. All the sites on the East side have good access to the water. I think the one I stayed at last, was 602 Provoking East and at first it was ok, but once I looked thru it more, other areas made it more enjoyable. It has good water access for both swimming and pumping water thru the trees on the right. Some nice views and plenty of space for 2 tents that wouldn't be over roots or on a slant. Bear Safety: Oh yes - there are bears!!! On the first trip I only encountered feces which btw are the size of logs but on the second trip there was a mama with two cubs; they didn't see me so I quietly turned around and made my trek back to the car thru a different route (portage/bike trail.) I always carry bear spray and a bear bell, and even though I've never had a scary encounter with any wildlife, I would encourage everyone to read about wildlife safety when camping. All-in-all, it is one of my favourite parks to go to and I would encourage everyone - including beginners. Just be ready with proper gear, practice safety and you'll have...

A friend and I did the entire loop (40km/27mi) on a rainy day with scattered storms. It took around 12 hours, including breaks.

The prettiest parts are on the river at the back end of the trail, and around provoking lake. If you just want the views, stick to the provoking lake loop! The trail is well marked and can be done without offline maps.

It is a hard hike for 1 day, but should be moderate to easy if you spread it across multiple days. There are a few short rock scrambles, but they are more fun than they are intimidating.

Essential equipment includes: 6 or more liters of water; mosquito nets (head covering), mosquito repellant, extra socks, band-aids (for blisters), lots of rice...