Çinili Hamamı — Attraction in Üsküdar

Yesterday it was my 4th hamam I visited in Istanbul, and came out quite disappointed. Read full review to know the real prices before going. Went there yesterday, they say hamam with costs 600 lira, but "additional" massage is extra. I ask is it full package, they say yes yes, so didn't have any suspicions.

Okay, I go, they asked to wait for couple of minutes before starting - so I ended up waiting for like 15 (!) minutes just sitting in hamam room, then guy with a huge belly and moustache comes and starts washing me, okay, as it should be. But then he starts scrubbing me right away, and I didn't even lie on the marble thing with foam, which surprised me, and then he says that foamy massage thing is actually extra and costs 200 lira, and I can pay more for tips. Well, I think okay, that's strange, but let's go. He even started saying something about 400 lira for massage, but I was like "200 it is right?", and he was okay.

Massage and foam thing lasted for about 10 minutes, which is obviously too fast. And then that's it. Washing+scrubbing lasted for about 15 minutes, foam massage for 10, and I find out that ACTUALLY it's 500 for hamam (not 600) and 60 (and not 200!!) for massage, it's written on a pricelist right on reception.

So I ended up paying 630 total where 30 was lemonade (don't know where other 40 came from btw), and what was funny is that massage guy ended up sad lol and tried to shame me that I paid a real price and not 200 which is 3+ times more, and when I tried to give him 20 lira as, well, tip as it was just change he didn't take it (!) and was all behaving like he is rly upset for me (why would I pay anything more for half-assed 10 minute long massage lol). And this thing that they tried to say it's 600 when it's 500 in reality - sure, basically this "scam" isn't much, but still shows the mentality of the place.

So yes, there ARE pestering and "cries" for money, so if you go there - just know it's 500 for hamam access (and you can probably just spend some time there by yourself after washing/scrubbing) no need to leave right away, and it's 60 for massage. Nothing more!

Oh yeah, almost forgot. Toilets there are so bad that it's just a hole in the ground, don't have a light there and there is NO toilet...

This hamam is from 1640 if I don't go wrong, you can find information on their web site. There are two entrances, one for men and one for women so if you're on the wrong side you just need to turn the corner. You wont feel out of place or confused for a second cos the ladies are so welcoming and kind, they will show you exactly what to do. As many know, you are given a paştemal, the towel you will keep in the hamam, another towel for later, a basket and a soap (you can bring your own soap and shampoo if you want, also your own washing glove, I did). You can change in a cabinet with a sofa where you can relax and have drinks after the bath. Then you will be escorted to the hamam. You can choose to wash yourself, to be washed and also to have a bubble massage. I recommend to do all, it's just 80 liras and really really worth it. I felt like I was in an Ingres painting, it's a very special experience if you can get through the initial shyness. Remember to tip the masseur. Hamam storico di quartiere, costruito nel 1640. L'architettura è semplice ma caratteristica, io l'ho adorata. Ci sono due ingressi, per uomini e donne quindi non scoraggiatevi, basta girare l'angolo. Io ho scelto di farmi lavare e massaggiare, pagando in totale 80 tl, un prezzo veramente irrisorio. Le signore parlano qualche parola di inglese ma non preoccuoatevi, vi accoglieranno e accompagneranno in tutto il percorso con estrema gentilezza e professionalità. Prendetevi almeno un'ora e mezza, due per godervi l'esperienza e rilassarvi. Ci si sente dentro un dipinto di Ingres, o più banalmente dentro un film di ozpetek. L'hamman non è troppo affollato, il che vi permettera di godervi un'esperienza autentica. Lasciate una mancia generosa alla signora che vi farà il massaggio. Consigliatissimo e facilmente raggiungibile in taksi da uskudar per 10tl. Çok...

I discovered this amazing hammam on Google maps and decided to give it a go for two main reasons: first, it has a separate section for women (my mam was travelling with me so she also had a great experience here); second, it is a historic hammam existing since 1640 and the prices are really hard to beat. The owner, Kenan, is an extremely friendly man who runs the place with highest professional standards, including spot on hygiene levels. The masseuse are very kind and professional and try to communicate despite knowing very little English. I stayed for almost 2 hours spending time at the sauna, lying down on the marble top bath, getting a skin-deep scrub, and a thorough wash by the older masseuse. Kenan was kind enough to offer me tea and a bottle of cold water. I also met another man who works as a tour operator for Arabs from Gulf countries and we became good friends. In all, this place is a gem in the Anatolian-side of Istanbul thanks to its history, great service, and very reasonable prices. I'm gonna be back again here once I visit Istanbul...