Watarase Onsen Hotel Yamayuri — Hotel in Tanabe

We had hiked 22km in freezing rain and light snow, so our great disappointment is probably coloured by this plus it was chosen for us as other cheaper options were full. As the most expensive hotel of our entire 4 week trip we were excited. Instead it seemed like an classic old hotel which had not moved on from the 1970s. No staff had any English, no signs with any English so it's still clearly a traditional Japanese onsen hotel with no interest in foreign tourists.

Once you realise $450/night still means no shower or bathroom in your room or even in the hotel, you learn you have to walk 50m down the street in 0° to the onsen and showers. Nice but in no way exceptional onsen. Choose between public (segregated) baths with lots of pools and simple fast food available outside, or the private outdoor pools (which you can share with a partner)

Our first Kiseki banquet was an awkward and embarrassing fiasco. No explanation or warning that all they offer is the full multi-dish option when we only wanted something warm and simple. No staff explained what went with what, nor what we were eating though I think they managed not too roll their eyes in front of us. I'm sure it ought to have been a culinary treat, but it was a waste of time and money with no explanation, no welcome and no choice ruined by the lack of any assistance or explanation or warmth. Breakfast was the same deal.

For old school Japanese onsen fans it's probably lovely. For walkers or foreigners, save considerable $$ and go elsewhere.

The futons were the most uncomfortable we have experienced so far and the lobby carpet is unbelievably kitsch and garish. It's best feature is it's near...

Small hotel in the countryside along the Kumano Kodo trail. Stayed 2 nights with friends in the Japanese styled rooms. The hotel was very clean and the set breakfasts and dinners were outstanding- multi course and well presented, delicious and filling. The onsite private onsens were also clean and we had to have our baths there as the rooms only had ensuite toilets. Most importantly the staff were outstanding- especially the male gentleman who was on duty from 9-9- we spoke no Japanese and he spoke little English but with the help of of google translate and his extreme patience we managed to communicate. He was of great assistance in helping us get our bentos for the hikes, arranging the hotel shuttle to the trails and in transporting our luggage to the next hotel. One of our tours was cancelled because of the rain and they promptly passed on the phone message that was relayed to them from the operator. A quirk of most of the inns and hotels and tour companies here is that most don’t have a Line or WhatsApp contact and still rely on landline phone and email to communicate. 2 thumbs for Watase onsen hotel for their outstanding service and accommodation. I’m already thinking of when I can cone back...

This was a very pleasant stop for a night during the Kumano Kodo. The traditional tatami mat room is large and comfortable and my futon was laid out while I was at dinner. I know westerners expect full private en suite bathrooms (sink and toilet only here) but I know not to expect this in Japan, and was happy to use a huge private onsen (I have tattoos so couldn’t use the public bath) for my wash and bath. But the highlight was the food - it is a traditional Japanese kaiseki, I don’t eat meat which was accounted for. I didn’t eat everything as I didn’t fancy it all but what I did it was superb and there was real theatre in it. Reception staff didn’t speak English but made good use of a translation tablet tool and helped me with everything I needed (eg Takkyubin, onsen qs) and there was one member of staff in the restaurant who did speak very good English. The restaurant and reception could do with a decor upgrade but overall it’s a solid hotel and if you like Japanese food and are willing to try new things, an especially...