Il Mattacchione [Estro in Cucina] — Restaurant in Olbia

Myself, my wife, and two friends visited Il Mattacchione in Olbia to celebrate the birthday of one of our friends. The restaurant is located outside the city center on Via Copenaghen, a fitting address given that the owners Rossella Meloni and Giuseppe Barracu previously lived in Denmark. Upon entering, Rossella welcomed us heartily and immediately made sure that we were comfortable. As we settled in, we noted the décor reminiscent of Northern Europe, with modern, stylish furniture and sparsely decorated walls.

Rossella told us that the whole table would need to share the same tasting menu. Since my wife is pescetarian, we immediately looked to the vegetarian menu. However, this menu did not entice us as much as a fish and meat menu. Rossella happily accommodated us by switching the meat dishes to vegetarian ones to create a unique menu showcasing Sardinian flavors that exceeded our expectations. Rossella’s service was spot on throughout the evening, from cocktail suggestions to wine pairing recommendations, always paying attention to every detail.

The food was prepared by chef Giuseppe Barracu with both excellent technique and imagination. At times, however, the results were a bit uneven, falling into three categories: amazing, very good, and average.

Amazing! Marinated salmon. Both the intense flavor and unique consistency of the salmon stood out. It was served sliced, topped with pieces of marinated red onion, dollops of apricot marmalade, and drops of almond puree that perfectly complemented the fish.

The frozen peanut “pre-dessert.” A wonderfully surprising composition of lightly salted chunky peanut butter ice cream enrobed in crisp white chocolate, resembling a peanut and served on a plate surrounded by real peanuts.

Dessert. Another sophisticated and visually stunning creation, this was a dairy-based honeycomb topped with olive oil and hazelnut cream drops, accompanied by a scoop of creamy gelato.

Very good Rombo (turbot). The fish was cooked to perfection and served on a bed of Swiss chard and quinoa, flavored with fish broth and lemongrass. The dish had an excellent balance of flavors but no surprises.

Another pre-dessert, a block of dark chocolate ganache sprinkled with bay leaf powder.

Average A barley stew with Jerusalem artichokes and lentils served in goat’s milk. Visually the least inspiring of the dishes, the stew lacked any distinctive flavor and had a strange chewy texture.

Spaghettone (thick spaghetti) cooked in mushroom broth and an emulsion of fine herbs. The pasta was unfortunately undercooked (well below al dente) and lacked the earthy mushroom punch that we expected.

The last pre-dessert, a caramel cube. This was reminiscent of a treat that we could buy as children for a few cents. Although it did bring back fond childhood memories, I am not sure that was the desired effect.

Despite the mixed success of the dishes, we heartily give this restaurant 5 stars. The team was particularly attentive and handled every aspect of the evening with great professionalism. I loved the passion exhibited by Rossella and Giuseppe throughout the meal. For example, we appreciated that dinner began with a greeting from the kitchen in the form of four small finger foods. Everything possible was done to surprise and delight the guests. Finally, the total price was completely as expected and, in our opinion, an...

Andiamo alla Trattoria Moderna il mattacchione quando abbiamo voglia di mangiare le specialità culinarie Sardo/Galluresi in chiave moderna. I giovani titolari della Trattoria Moderna hanno una lunga esperienza soprattutto nel Nord Italia in ristoranti stellati e non.

Io ho iniziato assaggiando il cappuccino di cozze , un modo diverso di mangiare le nostre cozze Olbiesi. Per come è presentato, dai colori sembra un cappuccino.La crema di fagioli allegri ha il colore del caffè.La crema di patate invece sembra quella della schiuma del cappuccino e,sopra, al posto del cacao c'è una polvere di olive nere.Il divertimento sta nel pescare le cozze dal fondo che per forza di cose si insaporiranno di questi ingredienti.

Ho notato una grande ricerca per il prodotto locale....infatti dal Montiferru da dove viene Giuseppe il titolare è precisamente da Bonarcado, arriva il bue al pascolo Sardo/Modicano. Ho preso allora una tartare di bue rosso ubriacato dalla marinatura nel vino,nel miele e nelle erbe aromatiche. Anche questo ci si diverte a mangiarlo servito in un piatto che sembra una scatola porta uova dispongono la tartare e varie polveri...da quella di pomodoro a quella di asparagi a quella di porcini nella quale si può intingere la carne per insaporirla di più e lo aggiungono un po di ottimo erborinato di Thiesi. Mio figlio dodicenne ha preso come primo piatto il riso al salto (mi hanno spiegato che prima si fa il risotto, poi le si da una forma e poi lo si passa in padella rovente in modo da crearle una crosticina fuori ma rimane morbido dentro) allo zafferano di San Gavino con polvere di liquirizia, tartare di gambero rosso locale e granita di mela e lime. Sempre mio figlio ha preso un secondo che è la pancia di maiale cotta a bassa temperatura sottovuoto, per 30 ore a 65°C. Essendo cotta sottovuoto non perde le proprieta e rimane molto succulenta e il grasso molto delicato non untuoso.

Mia moglie invece ha preso i Chiusoni (gnocchi Sardi di pasta fresca) fatti in casa con purpuzza di maiale aromatizzata alla birra artigianale e serviti con una fonduta di porro e su Casizzolu di Santu Lussurgiu.

Il Mattacchione come dolce propone l 'idea matta di Tiramisu, un dolce dove ci sono tutti gli ingredienti del Tiramisu ma composto in modo destrutturato e moderno. Quindi la Trattoria Moderna prende un 5 stelle ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ perché non esiste il 10 che sarebbe il voto giusto per la qualità del cibo e per il resto del servizio. Può tranquillamente combattere contro uno stellato come Da Giovannino a...

We had an excellent meal at this restaurant. Even though I don’t typically eat much seafood, I was pleased to find that the restaurant offers excellent vegetarian menu options alongside its seafood specialities. The atmosphere was fantastic and really added to the overall experience. The hosts were incredibly welcoming and made us feel right at home. We tried their special house cocktail, which was absolutely delicious! We opted for the “Coast to Coast” 4-course menu; every dish was flavorful and well-prepared. The only thing to note is that the restaurant is located a bit outside the city centre - we paid around €30 for an Uber back to Olbia centre - but the quality of food and service made it completely worth the trip. Highly recommended for anyone looking for great food, excellent service, and a memorable...