During my time in Kyoto, I wanted to try something truly local and traditional — not sushi the way it's done in Tokyo, but Kyoto-style sushi, with its subtle flavors and unique ingredients. That search led me to Izuju, a historic little sushi shop right across from Yasaka Shrine in Gion. This place has been around for over 100 years, and as soon as I stepped inside, I could feel the weight of that history — wooden walls, old signs, and a calm, almost nostalgic air.
I came just after lunchtime and managed to grab a seat inside (there are only a few). Most people take sushi to go, which is actually part of the tradition — Kyoto-style sushi was originally made to be eaten at room temperature, often for travelers or ceremonies. But I wanted to experience it fresh and quietly, in the shop itself.
The staff were polite and helpful, and there was an English menu with descriptions and photos, which made ordering very easy. I decided to go for a mixed set that included several kinds of saba-zushi (mackerel sushi), inari-zushi, and oshizushi (pressed sushi). I also added their hakozushi, which is a box-style sushi with layers of shrimp, egg, and vegetables. The presentation was beautiful — colorful, clean lines, everything sliced precisely.
Let’s talk about the saba-zushi first — that’s their signature, and it absolutely lives up to the praise. The mackerel is cured in vinegar and pressed over slightly sweet, vinegared rice, wrapped in a thin layer of kelp. The balance between the sharpness of the fish and the mild rice is just perfect. It’s bold, but not fishy — rich, but not heavy. You don’t need soy sauce or wasabi — in fact, they discourage it. The flavor is complete as it is.
The hakozushi was a totally new experience for me. Visually it looks like edible artwork — little rectangles stacked with layers of shrimp, egg, and rice, all pressed into shape with a wooden mold. Each bite was light and fluffy, with a touch of sweetness from the egg and a subtle tang from the rice. It’s gentle, refined, and distinctly Kyoto.
Even the inari-zushi stood out — sweet tofu pockets filled with beautifully seasoned rice. It sounds simple, but it was easily one of the best I’ve ever had. Everything was served room temperature, but nothing felt stale or flat — it’s how it’s meant to be enjoyed.
One thing I appreciated is how quiet the space was — no rush, no chatter, just a few people respectfully enjoying their sushi and tea. It gave me time to really focus on each bite and appreciate the craftsmanship.
Prices are very fair for the quality and location. I spent around 2,000 yen for everything, including green tea. For a Michelin Guide–recommended spot with over a century of history,...
Read moreWhile researching Kyoto, we came across Izuju (祇園いづ重 京都寿司) as a highly recommened option for sabazushi. Saba is mackerel and zushi is, well, sushi. However, sabazushi is slightly pickled in salt and sushi vinegar. Izuju specializes in sabazushi, a Kyoto speciality, and during their near 100 years of operation, they have become famous in Kyoto as one of the best places to eat it. The restaurant is easily located directly across the street from the bright orange Yasaka Shrine on Shijo Street. We decided to order a combo that came with sabazushi, inari (sushi rice wrapped in aburaage, or deep fried tofu skin), hakozushi (box sushi) and makizushi. The hakozushi usually comes with grilled pike conger (a type of eel) or mackerel but really depends on the season. Due to it being summer, the hakozushi came with the pike conger on top. The makizushi consisted of shiitake mushrooms, kanpyo (gourd), mitsuba (Japanese wild parsley) and omelet and was reminiscent of the Korean kimbap, as a point of reference. The standout was definitely the sabazushi. It was unlike any sushi that either of us had tasted in the past. The savory pickled mackerel on top of the vinegary rice wrapped in a piece of slippery kelp-all of the textures and flavors really worked well together. We enjoyed how delicate the texture of the fish, which despite being pickled, maintained the subtle flavor of the mackerel. This combined with the vinegary rice made for a perfect bite! We could have ordered a full plate...The makizushi was a nice change of pace from the other items in the combo but wasn't anything too special. We agreed it was definitely our least favorite of the four. The hakozushi was okay, but after the more flavorful sabazushi, it fell a bit flat. The pike conger was cooked well and the rice was again quite good but we both preferred the sabazushi. The inari was a definite close second behind the sabazushi. Definitely a must visit if you're...
Read moreWe had just finished an incredible morning of sightseeing starting at Kiyomizu-dera, Ninenzaka, Kōdaiji Temple and Maruyama Park eventually bringing us to the doorsteps of Izuju Sushi. To be honest, if we were walking any faster through this intersection, we would have missed it because the opening to the zen garden pathway to the restaurant in the back is very inconspicuous. Lucky for us, we had keen eyes and decided to explore a little more to find this true gem of a restaurant that has been in business for over 100 years and specializes in "Kyoto style" sushi.
Their specialty is an assorted box of Oshizushi with saba that is popular in the Kansai region for a long time. Of course we ordered this along with Inari Sushi and for us, an off menu item because it was not available on the English menu. This very special dish which I have never had before was steamed sushi. It comes in a wooden steamer box filled with sushi rice topped with jullienne of egg and a variety of seafood which is ultimately cooked because the entire box is steamed. It was different, delicate and delicious.
There are not very many seats in this very traditional looking restaurant and the decor is incredibly traditional and transports you back in time. This was a very special meal and we all enjoyed the experience greatly. I hope that I have an opportunity to experience this once again someday...
Read more