御料理ふじ田 — Restaurant in Sapporo

A simple outlet on the outskirts of town. A plain white wood counter seating only eight and facing a grey wall, a low cupboard, and a single, elegant terra cotta vase. On the left, charcoal grills and the kitchen entrance. Functional and comfortable with no pretense to impress by the design and the atmosphere. The focus is clearly some place else, and what a place!

The same simplicity is found in the staff: the Chef, a middle age women and two apprentices, a boy and a girl, in their early twenties. Welcoming and friendly, and all four driven by the same passion: sharing their love of food, in a meticulous and yet easy going way. The dishes are assembled in front of you and served with a little description. Then, the staff shy away, but you can see expectations in their eyes as they wait for your reaction to the food. And their apprehension transforms into an understanding smile when they see your pleasure.

There was some music. A kind of partita for solo violin, without beginning nor end. I could not tell the composer. A soothing sound, like the ebb and flow on a sandy beach. Or the fist sunlight after a long winter. To awaken the senses but not overpower them.

The menu was a subtile and enchanting monogatari of seafood and spring vegetables. Eerie and light. Every ingredient had its own story, blended in harmony with those of others. Sea urchin as a starter, of course. Tile fish in a clear broth, like a deep sea hot spring. Small sashimi bytes, snapper and tuna, impeccably fresh. A big clam on bamboo shoots. Deep fried lotus roots and other wild plants. Hairy crab with asparagus. Rice, infused with sea bream, and sprinkled with chopped green onions. But the tale must already come to an end. Some seasonal fruits and a delicately pink sakura rice ball (the Sakura are early May in Hokkaido). The violin keeps playing its elaborate melody. There is still so much more that could be told.

We had three different types of sake, selected by the Chef’s wife, each with a different character. They were surprisingly assertive but in perfect tune with the food. The boy apprentice was passionate in explaining their origin. The cut glasses in which they were poured gave them a particular glow.

We eventually had to leave, going back to the damp and windy Sapporo night -winters are long in this part of the country. But as the electric cab was silently gliding along the large downtown avenues of this northern metropolis, we were still lightened up by the feeling of gaiety brought by this unique and...

If you don’t speak Japanese, I would not recommend this restaurant, as you won’t get the full experience. For this style of dining, the experience matters as much as the food, and here, that was lacking.

The food was fine but not memorable: flavors were on the bland side, and while the ingredients were Hokkaido-based, nothing felt particularly special.

What stood out most, unfortunately, was the lack of interaction from the Chef. We are no strangers to fine dining in Japan, and we were polite, punctual, and followed every rule, yet over our 3-hour meal, the Chef never once engaged with us, despite having better English than many high-end chefs we’ve encountered in Japan and better than his young assistant, who served us most of the time. The assistant was very friendly but struggled with English and occasionally had to ask the Chef for help. With only eight counter seats—five Japanese speakers and the three of us English speakers that night—it was awkward and glaring that the Chef spoke ONLY to Japanese guests the entire time while preparing dishes right in front of us, never once even asking how we were doing.

Two nights earlier, we had sushi fine dining also in Sapporo where the Chef’s English was far worse than this Chef’s, yet he made every effort to engage with us and explain the ingredients, and we had an absolutely amazing time. That contrast made it even clearer how much the chef’s interaction shapes the overall experience. Here, that essential element...

This was such a fantastic end to end meal from the warm and inviting atmosphere to the delicious and comforting food presented in an elevated manner. My friend and I came here after spending a week in Tokyo and this was by far our favorite meal in Japan! The restaurant welcomed us from our taxi that dropped us off and even offered to call a taxi back as well as to send us off with umbrellas due to the rainy weather. The atmosphere of the restaurant was so cozy and everyone felt like a friendly family. The food was excellent, well balanced and delicious. Definitely would come again and recommend to all who are looking for a delightful...